I got a problem with my garage opener in past few days. I can close the door when I leave for work but cannot open the door when I come home. At first I thought the trouble is caused by cold weather. Then I thought is the board gone bad. However, when I get the remote close to the antena, everything works fine. Finally I observe that my garage door open/close indicater(Made by Craftsman) both lights are flashing(red and green). Therefore I disconnet the AC power on the receiver then test out the garage door remote. Surprisely, everything works like a charm. The trouble is caused by the unit that attached to the garage door runs out the battery. I bet the receiver unit was sending signal to find the door unit consistenly which interferences the signal of garage door remote control, including my keypad door opener. After I replace the battery on the door unit, everything is back to normal. Just want to share with anyone who has the same situation. Signal interference will cause the trouble to remote control.

For anything that needs to be hardwired, RUN CONDUIT. Stnadards are always changing as technology evolves, and what works now may be obsolete in 10, 15, or 20 years. Realize that wireless is better to day than a few years ago, and will likely improve in future years too. But it's best to still hardwire some things. I still prefer hardwired speakers. In my own house, when I built I ran conduit for everything and have all my speakers hardwired. Like a previous poster, I have two 400-CD jukeboxes in my main area that can pipe music anywhere...to any room, outdoors to the pool, etc. A while ago I went over to Sonos for music. It allows my teenagers to listen to what music they want in their rooms, it allows me to listen to what music I want where I am, or my wife where she is...you can pipe different music to different rooms. Easy. It also allows you to play the same source in each room, with it synched up perfectly. The "synch" aspect may not sound important, but we have a couple of friends who have Apple wireless for "whole house" and when they simulcast music to each room, the synching can be off just a tad. Even a tenth or a quarter of a second and it sounds weird. Sonos has control apps so you can run the system with complete control from either a Sonos controller, or from a iPhone or iTouch. It's pretty slick. I prefer the Sonos over my old Niles, and that's a bold statement on my part. Sonos also allows you access to pay sources like Rhapsody and Pandora, plus internet radio. Initially I wasn't interested in that, but we signed up for Rhapsody this summer. It's pretty slick, and at $12 a month it's less than what my kids were paying for iTunes downloads. Several time this summer we'd have friends over and we'd be out at the pool, the conversation would turn to music and if I didn't have that particular song/artist on CD, I'd use my itouch or Sonos controller to call up Rhapsody and play the obscure song or artist that we were talking about. I live in CT, my in-laws were visiting from Wisconsin and my mother-in-law mentioned polka. I called up internet radio and in about 20 seconds I had the radio station from Appleton WI that they listen to back home playing polka out by the pool here in CT. It's pretty cool. Fluff to a certain extent, but the capability is there to listen to what you want when you want, with ease. And without having to do it from your computer. With Sonos, you need a "box" for each area that you want to play independent music in. Figure about $400 per box. Their S5 box is an all-in-one, it looks like a small boom box. They have other stations (ZP100) that plug into an existing stereo or theater setup and you play through those speakers. They have a third type (ZP120) that has a powered amp and you can plug your own speakers into that box. There are other options available too that may suit your needs better than Sonos. I just thought I'd toss Sonos out as an...

paradigm....here's the low cost wireless solution I was referring to....link below. These would have to be housed in a weather enclosure of some sort or inside your outdoor panel if there's room....inside the garage would also do the trick if that works for your setup. These RF systems use your existing home electrical wires to send the signals to any X10 dimmers/switches in and around the home to turn lights/appliances on/off and dimmer control. All from the palm of your hand with an RF remote that works through walls and does not need line of sight. Their standard package has 16 channels for control of 16 different devices from one remote. The key fob package below only has 2 channels, but you can upgrade to a handheld remote that has the 16 channels and expand your X-10 devices as needed....pretty cool! I use a lot of X10 devices around the house including the home theater as well. They also come in handy for outdoor X-mas lighting, blow-up outdoor holiday figures, etc. They are easily programmed...just select the same channel on the remote and the appropriate X10 device (dip switch selectable on each X10 device) and they are paired automatically. If you want to put your hands on one of these to see what they look like, Fry's Electronics carries an assortment of X10/Smarthome devices. There's several Fry's in the DFW area that I've bought X10 hardware over the years. Hope this helps! Switch plus key fob remote: http://www.smarthome.com/4003/X10-16-Device-Base-Unit-with-Keychain-Remote-for-2-Devices-RC6500/p.aspx Higher Current Switch (for larger loads >500 watts): http://www.smarthome.com/_/ProductResults.aspx?Ntt=110v 20A receptacle

I have questions for you and some suggestions. The pics are great so far. 1) How big are the pool and spa? 2) How many BTUs is the heater? 3) How many HP is the Northstar pump? 4) And the Blower? 5) How many jets in the spa? 6) How many pool returns? Any in the spa? Assuming the heater is functioning correctly, except for the remote function, most 8' spas take about 20 minutes to heat up. If the tan wire is not broken, then turn on the heater and then press and hold the mode, temp up and temp down buttons simultaneously. That will put your heater into remote operation mode. If the spa doesn't reach the desired temp, repeat the above procedure, turn the temp on the heater to 103 degrees, then put it back in remote mode. If it still doesn't reach the desired temp, the water temp sensor may be dying. The skimmer lines are on the wrong side of the 3 way valve. I would move them over to the same side as the pool drain and replumb the pool suction lines in one port of a 3 way valve and the spa suction on the other. The 3rd port goes to the pump. Put the valve actuator on that 3 way. You won't have to manually turn valves anymore. Are there no lights in the pool? If there are, you can also add a relay to control them. A hard wired full function controller can be added in the house to resolve the remote's loss of communication. Ill bet it's too many walls or distance causing the interference. The slow response is typical for Jandy wireless remotes. The Pentair Quad DE is the easiest to clean. While it can be directly plumbed, I prefer the added functionality of the optional multiport. We can answer more when you answer my questions to you.