Yes, it's very easy, but you'll need to provide an image. As a bonsai practitioner, a regular part of how we make trees look very old is by inducing rapid taper in the trunk - very fat at the bottom, very thin on the top. Heavy branches low on the tree, twiggy growth at the top - just as you see in nature, only condensed. It's not unusual for me to dig up a tree which is 10 or more feet tall, immediately after shortening the tree to something like 4-6 inches in ht. At least 90% of my trees have had the 'trunk chop' procedure done multiple times. Examples: This ficus microcarpa ^^^ was chopped severely 3 times. You can barely see one major scar low on the right side of the tree. There's another between the leader and left branch, and another on the top of the right branch just to the right of the thinner part of the trunk. This tree ^^^ (having just been pruned hard in the image) has been chopped hard 5 times. In both cases, the chops are strategically planned so the scars aren't visible when observing the tree from its front, 'front' being it's best or most eye-appealing side. This ^^^ is the first (and second) chop on a maple (tree in middle - in black nursery can - big white scare. The branch with the wire is the new trunkline and the right fork (fatter side) of the trunk will eventually be cut off. It's purpose until that time is to add thickness to the thin part of the trunk. Same tree after several chops - notice the taper. The scars will heal. Same tree - still progressing. It has about 2 more years of growth and training before it gets a quality bonsai pot. This is last year's image, and it's made good progress this year. I hope you enjoyed that and were/are left with the sense it won't be too difficult to fix whatever you did to/for your tree. Trees are very predictable, so much so that we can plan ahead to utilize branches that don't yet exist, because we know at some point 'they will'. Ready when you are. Al

Hello, Donnas. Yes, sudden cold weather, after spring temperatures have been around for a while, can cause the bark to split if it freezes. You can look around to see if you notice this bark split, although some people report that it may not be visible sometimes until June or so. Some form of winter protection is needed when the weather does this. Can you also make sure that it is getting adequate moisture? Insert a finger to a depth of 3-4" inches and see if it feels dry, moist or wet. If it is dry, it needs more water. If it feels moist, it is doing fine. If it feels wet, it is getting too much water amd this can cause root rot so tweak your sprinkler system. Also, check for borer damage. If a borer got into the plant, parts of the plant above the entry point will die so ck in areas where the dead branches meet live branches. Luis

Jackie, Good for you! Fragrance is very important. BUT, most of the time, I can't smell most of my roses. The Rugosa Rotesmeer is the only rose I grow which consistently provides me scent. I can also smell myrrh which is probably why I like it. I can pick up a little wafting scent as I walk through the garden. It is light and pleasing. But, disappointing when you figure I have at least 30 very fragrant roses. On the other hand, the fragrance of the butterfly bushes is overwhelming. And I love my "Miss Kim" too. So fragrance is not necessary to allow me to love my roses.

Me! Me! I hate FDs! A few years ago before the reno, I figured I'd get a fancy new FD fridge because if everyone had them they must be the bees knees. Then we moved into a neighborhood house when the reno began. My excitement over using the full-depth GE FD 36" fridge there quickly turned to loathing. I'm not a particularly wide person, but I found myself opening both doors every time I needed to retrieve or replace a item. Besides the ridiculous mystery of not knowing in which side of the fridge my desired item was, I just couldn't stand at the fridge with only a 16" view inside. Maybe I have some undiagnosed visual-spatial issue because I actually need to see the contents of the fridge when I open it. If I was just grabbing the milk out of the door, I would just open the right-hand door, but anything else meant opening two doors. And closing two doors. Seems like twice the work to me. I had the requisite landing space across the aisle from it, but I still hated the thing. Knowing I'd want to bash the life out of a FD fridge with a baseball bat if I had one in my new kitchen, knowing I hated SxS units for the narrow storage, and knowing I didn't want to be on my hands and knees digging in the produce drawers of a top freezer model like I've done for many years, that left me with a bottom freezer configuration. I scored a deal on a 36" BI KA from ebay. I smile at least once a day while at the fridge when I can open one door and see everything at once. The door is not heavy or awkward. I love my single door! Interior cu ft wasn't an issue for me as we've always had an extra fridge in the garage for overflow. I buy milk three gallons at a time, buy large watermelons in the summer, have a large weekly CSA share through the growing season, host all family holidays and entertain a lot. Even a large full-depth fridge in the house wouldn't be enough all the time. I find the bottom freezer easy enough to use. It's really not much digging with the factory organizational system of slide out baskets and drawer dividers. Again, a small freezer of any fridge wouldn't be enough freezer space so I have an upright in the garage for our large, organic and free-range pig and cow portions. Like A2, I wish I had the kitchen space for large, separate fridge and freezer units. Even though I don't understand the appeal of SxS or FD fridges, I'm glad people have various options. For me, even if a full-width fridge door blocked the aisle completely, and mine almost does, I'd choose it in a heartbeat over a half-door.