fm, Thank you for providing that info. The info was very complete. It also serves to illustrate that you can take a simple process of fertilizing your lawn by hand and turn it into a complicated and costly process with any number of parts that can have problems and make it difficult to discern was fertilizer rate you are applying to the plants. Also over time will clog your drip irrigation system with precipitated salts. JMHO Aloha

Pictures aren't clear enough to diagnose, but that much blackspot on KO is close to impossible. Also I don't think you could have downy mildew in Florida in summer. KO is susceptible to cercospora disease. Last summer I saw a plant that looked about like yours because of cercospora. It is a disease of mild weather, but it takes a couple of months for the leaves to yellow and die. Picking off spotted leaves would probably give adequate control. Here is info from U of F. Here is a link that might be useful: cercospora from ifas

Best way is to use a Mixrite 571CW injection pump. Hook it right up to your irrigation system after the backflow per instructions. Be sure to buy the 75-11-1 Tip Kit, This will allow you to dilute the concentrated fertilizer with ratios of 750:1, 1000:1, 1500:1, or 2000:1. Works perfectly, and with these low ratios you can leave the injector permanently on and you'll have micro fertigation, which plants really like. Only drawback: Even though the pump is non-electric, it is very loud. I had to build an insulated box around mine. Looks like the links don't take you to the products. Just do a search when you get to the website...

Ok so no one has really answered this question effectively yet. Let me start by saying I am a full time vegetable farmer on ten acres using fertigation on everything. The size of your plot will have a significant financial start up cost, but it will be worth it in the long run. Most of the initial investments are one time purchases like mainlines, valves, pressure regulators, end closures, timer, TDS meter, fertilizer injector, and pressure gauges for the mainline There are several questions I would need to know for sure to effectively respond, but here is a basic rundown. You will need for starters, a TDS meter available for $20-30 at most home improvement stores. You will need to know your gpm from the well pump, and as close to exactly how many feet of drip tape you have. Are you laying under plastic or mulch? Burying the drip tape? Laying on top of the dirt? Do you have a 7 day timer? .25gph drip is a little lower than most standard vegetable tapes. Usually .34 or .45 is used on gardens, because 1 hour a day for 7 days is 1” of water like most plants require. However, how you lay the drip tape affects how long you run the system. With most liquid fertilizers imjected through an EZ flo system, the target is to get to around 700ppm over your usual ppm. So if you use a TDS meter and it reads 100ppm with just the water, you will need to adjust the fertilizer input to get a reading of 800ppm. This is done different ways you can adjust the mixing rate on the EZ Flo, you can adjust the fertilizer solution before adding it to the system, or you can adjust the values higher or lower with an inline ball valve, but that’s a more advanced method so skip that one. How you design the system using the timer will change how you need to adjust the values if you run it for 4 hours every five days, you will want a slightly higher value, say 850-900ppm as compared to around 700 with an everyday watering. At no point with fertigation should you be running straight water once crops are starting to bloom. Allow the rain to be your fresh water source, and use the drip for maximum value When it comes to fertigation, you cannot just guess with it. It is absolutely critical to know all components of your system, but the yields compared to traditional growing are not even comparable. I’m talking 3-4 times greater yield on most plants!!! your EZ flo will come with a standard set of instructions but they don’t mean anything until you know all those other factors listed above. You may have to install a white flo disc or a red flo disc, or you may have to run the garden in multiple zones. Probably the most critical thing though of anything, is to remember with drip you are thinking in terms of hours, NOT minutes. Running in minutes will cause crops to die. I recommend you check out Urban Farm Fertilizers if you are going to be using an EZ Flo system as the numbers above are based on my uses on nearly every vegetable crop available for consumption by the public. Youll also need some food coloring to add to the EZ Flo system so you can see when you run out of fertilizer. As far as how much...you have to know the numbers above. Period. Generally with my mainline ez Flo system it is diluted one gallon of fertilizer to 2800 gallons of water to achieve the correct ppm. For cover crops and leafy stuff it’s diluted even further to nearly 7000 gallons to one gallon fertilizer. Let me know if you need anymore help with this set up.