Unless you've got Schluter Kerdi over that drywall, the drywall has to come out.

Drywall would eventually need to come out anyway as it has absolutely no business being in a shower to start with. NO drywall is waterproof. Cement Board as Joe suggests Kerdi or some sort of waterproofing is a must.

Appears to be a redo.

Appears to be the $1.98 special instead of the 20K expense that it should be to do it right.

Correction: Densarmor was used as the backer not regular drywall

We cant answer the backer question, the new tiler would be the one to answer that. And if it were me, looking at the shoddy job done by the tiler, I dont see how they’d want to trust their work on any part of it. I’d question anyone who wanted to reuse it unless they can certainly say its still good.

Before ripping it out, get that tiler back out and show him the problems and see what they say. I’d be looking for my money back. Was it inspected?

Call Mike Holmes, maybe he’ll “Make it Right”.

Yes I looked at it from a distance, but not closely at first. But, now see the issues when i look at it closely. I have contacted the tiler and he is willing to come back out and look at the issues. The bathrooms were gutted to studs and joists as previous owner had cracks in tile and rotted plywood in the floor and mold in bathroom wall. Lots of new studs were framed, lots of screws in the floors, etc, etc.. and then to have the tiler screw it all up. What a pity!

And who built the pans and did the waterproofing? What waterproofing was used? Do you have pictures of it being done? What did you pay?

Paid 1500. Didn't want to take chances on a tile base. So, I used a fleurco shower base in the shower and a Kohler tub in the other bathroom. Will post pics a little later. Since the densarmor plus is waterproof, no additional waterproofing was used.

"Paid 1500. Didn't want to take chances ....."

converts to $1218 usd might cover materials(tile excluded) and a tiny bit of the prep labor.

you just answered every question related to all your recent tile posts i fear Thx for the honesty

Well, $1500 for two bathrooms and a laundry IS the cheapest mouth breathing corner stander with no skills other than to hop in the back of the truck and head to the construction site to pick up trash. 10x that would be LOW for two baths and a laundry from someone with skills and a license.

The headliner should be “Man shoots self in foot. Wants Massive Sympathy and Instructions on Self Surgery.”

Time to rip it out and learn a life lesson. TANSTAAFL

Thats an amateur hack. Not s professionally licensed and insured tile contractor. And it shows. You actually got a better job than the level you paid for.

ay caramba... So much negativity!

Pics uploaded..

Questions:

1. Any issues with tile not being done right to the edge of the drywall?

2. Tiles on the longer wall are not even where they rest against the bathtub. Opinions?

3. How to make the tile wall by window come out the same distance as the opposite wall? any ideas or workarounds? I had the tiler remove the edge as the tile ended too short.

You are correct the post(s) are full of negativity.

"the job wasn't done right"

"The Tiles are not level against each other in the shower. On the floor, the tile wasn't inserted under the door jambs. In one of the bathrooms the tile ends before the door jamb"

"My hardwood installer noticed this. He said the tiler should have"

" Tiles on the longer wall are not even where they rest against the bathtub. "

"I paid $1500"

A pricing and hiring issue at its core an issue directly related to skill and outcome.. Whether you are to blame or not is neither concern or point. The great thing about these forums is folks have a chance to learn from others woes.

Sophia Wheeler. Just another antagonistic comment. I don't see how this is helpful to the OP or this forum. For some I suppose it has an entertaining value, for me I find it distastefull and distracting. If you are a "pro" as you claim you are please conduct yourself accordingly.

stragg1, it seems to boil down to your tiler either over promised and under delivered, or he won your contract by price rather than quality and reputation. Either way, it seems the tiler did is work proportionately to the $1500 you paid him which is too low for a skilled tiler in their trade. This is one of those lessons where you get what you pay for. A pro might be able to fix some of the mistakes, but they also then have to stand by what your current tiler has already done and I don't see anyone doing that given the list of errors they've made that are easily visible. You really need to do your due diligence when hiring a contractor. Get multiple bids, and if some of bids are significantly cheaper, it should throw up red flags rather than a smile. Get references from actual customers and reach out to them. There are a lot of great tradesman out there, but there are also crappy ones and they're not going to tell you they are up front. That is your job to educate yourself and "interview" them. If you have questions on what to ask the tilers/contractors or what to look for, I'm sure the folks here would be more than willing to help you with that info. You don't want to hire a contractor not knowing what should be done.

Yes some of these replies are harsh, it's more "tough love" than hand holding here. Remember they don't get paid to post on this site, but if you can read through the lines, there is a lot of valuable information that can be learned from them.

Any opinion on the questions I posted?

1. Any issues with tile not being done right to the edge of the drywall?

2. Tiles on the longer wall are not even where they rest against the bathtub. Opinions?

3. How to make the tile wall by window come out the same distance as the opposite wall? any ideas or workarounds? I had the tiler remove the edge as the tile ended too short.

Rip it out and hire an actual Pro. At a real Pro price. He will rebuild everything properly to allow staright and level runs. And he will finish off the runs properly. He won’t have lippage, because he will have leveled horizontal surfaces properly, and adjusted wall framing appropriately. He will follow all TCNA guildelines.

Your cheap DIY hobbyist gets thrown back in the pool. With sharks.

"1. Any issues with tile not being done right to the edge of the drywall?"

Actually, this is one of the details he got right. Tiles all the way to the corner look funny and make a difficult-to-paint area.

"2. Tiles on the longer wall are not even where they rest against the bathtub. Opinions?"

The wall was not shimmed so the tile would sit flush with the tub flange. Tear it out or live with it.

"3. How to make the tile wall by window come out the same distance as the opposite wall? any ideas or workarounds? I had the tiler remove the edge as the tile ended too short."

Are you installing a shower curtain or sliding doors? You may be seeing something that you aren't going to be seeing anyway. If it does show, install a continuous strip of white solid surface.

I was hoping to install a shower curtain but have been advised to use a glass door to cover the corner that might have smaller tile to line up with the other side.

About the tiles not being even with each other. It seems to only have this issue on the half tiles they seem to be pushed in when compared against the alternating adjacent full tile. Will see what the tiler can do to rectify if anything. Thanks

The waviness between adjacent tiles may be due to the tiles being bowed along their length. Bowing from the firing process is fairly common in long/thin tiles. It's a manufacturing issue. That bowing is accentuated when tiles are set with the 50% offset you have, as it puts the highest part of the bow in the tiles in one vertical column next to the lowest part of the tiles in the adjacent column. Quite a few manufacturers, as well as installation standards, recommend against 50% offset patterns in these tiles because of that.

That bowing could be causing the in/out pattern where the tile ends meet the tub on the long wall.

If you have any tiles left over, you can check for bowing by placing/stacking one tile upon another, with the glazed faces of the tiles touching. See if the tiles rock against one another (bowed), if the lay tight to each other (flat), or if the ends touch but there is a gap in the middle (bowed).

The end walls. I can't comprehend why your installer set 7-1/2 vertical columns of tile on the shower head end wall and only 7 on the other end wall. Was the vertical column of half tile added in the corner so he could make the shower arm hole location fall on a grout line for easier cutting instead of having to cut a hole for the arm in the middle of the tile field?

He could add another vertical row of full tile on the window end wall from ceiling to floor, scribing the tile to fit around the tub.

Thanks MongoCT!! Yes, I think you are right. He had mentioned at some point that he prefers to have cuts at end of tiles than right through the middle. I will check out the bowing theory. It's quite plausible!

A shower built correctly around me runs $2500+ depending on size. That is labor only. $1500 for all of that is very scary. No wonder you got a bad job. Hire someone else & pay them more for correct work.