"Removing this tile will require installation of new Durock"

What about the waterproofing? What did the tiler install OVER the durock? How will he tie the waterproofing into the pan if it is existing? Actually including demo it sounds cheap if done properly.....................

I'm rather heartsick for you as well. I can't advise on the price but as someone who's considering a white floor, I'd love to know why the white isn't working in your space, if you care to share.

^^ I had a white floor in my other house. It was in the kitchen. I *hated* it, absolutely positively detested it, I griped about that floor pretty much every day for 17 years! My plan was to replace it but unfortunate financial circumstances got in the way of my plan. Do you have any idea how difficult it is to keep a pure white kitchen floor looking clean? It shows *every single speck* of everything - I would clean it and I kid you not 15 minutes later I'd be b*tching because it was showing something. I'd take a hot flamin' flamingo pink floor over white any day, I detested it *that* much!

@millwork man - I am not sure as to the installation parameters other than to say that when I started floating by this idea with them, I confirmed (just so I would understand) that this decision was not only about removing the tile but also the tile preparation underneath. Now that I am saying this, that also includes a shower niche they built as well. I have a good relationship with my GC and from everything I have seen in their work (across various trades) they are conscientious and they do things properly. In short, I trust them. That being said, if you have any specific recommendations of items to double check with them, I'd appreciate it.

@suzmtl. This is a large format white porcelain tile. Basically the porcelain looks grayish and cheap against the marble tile I used on the shower pan. And because there is a shower bench and shampoo niche as well I decided that it was way better to not mix natural stone with porcelain. There are simply too many surfaces going on. That is not to say that they don't ever work together - I personally think stone mosaic on a floor and white subway on the walls is a lovely look. In this case it is not working. I just felt that I should cut my losses and fix it in favor of fewer types of surfaces that match better. Overall, the entire renovation is costing way too much for it not to look fantastic when it is done. That is how I am looking at it anyway. Fingers crossed that this is the only mistake...

I also would never do a basic white on a floor. At least if there is some sort of marbling pattern or something the dirt has a place to hide! :)

Thanks for the feedback, mxk3. Definitely something I'm keeping in mind because ease of cleaning is my number one priority in this new bathroom.

Exactly the type of tile I was considering, Dr. P. so thanks for sharing your design experience. Best of luck moving forward. I hope you share pics once it's done.

Durock is not waterproof. There needs to be a waterproofing over the Durock which also gets tied in to the shower pan waterproofing. I am sure you will be asked for the specifcation documents, as well as in progress pictures of the construction of the shower surround.

@suzmtl - In this current bath we have porcelain tiles on the floor in a calacatta marble design (so, white with gray & brown swirls). Both the tile guy and I have been fanatical about keeping the floors clean but the other trades will go in there with dirty shoes from time to time. I can see the dirt from their shoes but it is not terrible. This is a master bath so hubby and I will either be in bare feet, socks or slippers most of the time so I think it will be ok. I have white marble in another upstairs bathroom but I did dark grout with that so I think that helps. I hate dirty grout lines more than dirty floors so that is what I have been focused on!

@millwork man. Thanks for your advice. I will check with my GC as to how the shower is being waterproofed. It is very likely he is doing things properly and I'm not reporting all of the steps here due to my own lack of knowledge.

Sounds VERY inexpensive to me if it's done with the correct waterproofing.

If you trust your GC, then trust him. Sounds cheap to me.

$1,900 is really inexpensive where I live, but costs vary alot by location. I'm in a HCOL area; in the past year have been quoted $6,000 and $8,000 to redo tub surround and replace tub in a 60"x32" alcove (standard kids' tub; basic ceramic 3"x6" tile, no accent tile or anything). That doesn't include cost of the tile or tub (just includes labor and the materials the contractors use like durock etc.).

"This seems on the high side and I will be paying this on top of what I already paid to have the whole shower done."

I would question the price, as well. Sounds way too cheap to me, for all the reasons that have been mentioned above. In fact, I don't think I'd even do it without starting from ground zero.

We did have them rip out the tile and the wall that had the tile has been rebuilt. We are a little bit paused now because I started asking questions about waterproofing based on the advice here and other things I have read. I asked the installer, not the GC, and I basically got the answer that Kerdi waterproofing is what they do for steam showers but not in a standard tiled shower install. I talked to my architect and that is sort of his understanding as well but of course he is not a tile pro. They will do additional waterproofing for me and because of the tiles I am using, I will ask them to do it. For waterproofing my tile manufacturer tear sheet recommends Mapei Aquadefense. Any thoughts about what I should ask for to get the best installation? Thank you so much in advance!

Mapei Aquadefense is a fine product. I haven't used it in several years, but never had problems with it. It's appropriate for a shower, but not a steam shower as it's not a vapor barrier.

You can find the manufacturers installation instructions online. Read them to get a feel.

In general, the cement board is hung on the walls, if the boards are hung neatly, the seams and corners can simply be filled with thinset. If there are 1/8" or wider gaps, then they should use reinforcing fabric in addition to the thinset.

Application of the Aquadefense will usually be two coats on all panel seams and corners. Then two additional coats over everything. The dry thickness of the final coat should be about 30 mils, but the actual number should be mentioned in the installation instructions.

You can ask the person applying the Aquadefense if they have a wet mil thickness gauge. If they don't ask how they know they are putting it on at the proper thickness. That'll at least get him thinking about applying it properly.

Wet mil thickness gauges can be bought for $5, maybe $10 dollars.

Inspect the Aquadefense prior to them tiling. Make sure it looks good, there's no thin see-through areas, and that there are no voids or pinholes.

Liquid membranes work quite well when installed properly. And to install them properly, all the person has to do is follow the directions. That's it. No shortcuts. Shortcuts lead to leaks. Benches are especially vulnerable.

Considering you have a niche and a shower bench, and none of it was properly waterproofed the first time around? It's a good thing you hated the tile color! lol

The cost of the demo, the new durock, the Aquadefense and the retile will be far less than what it would have cost to remediate any water damage that might have occurred down the road.

Best of luck with your installation.

@MongoCT - Thanks! Yes, I am sorta feeling that it was a good thing that I had them rip out the tile! It is better to do it right and cry once, imo. It is hard being the homeowner because there is just soooo much to learn about the various trades and there is often conflicting information.

They definitely reinforced the seams with tape & thinset for the first go-round. The GC and the installer say they don't like Mapei grout so we'll see what they say about Aquadefense or if there is an alternative product.

Around here the number I use to estimate tile is about $25/sq ft to install (about 18 for the labor). The number I use for demo is about $50 hour per person.

so for your project

For demo I would think about 7 hours for 2 people (about 10 minutes per square ft). So $700 for the demo and about 1440 for the install (assuming you bought the tile).

If you have a GC I would add another 25%