So the gist of it is to get as horizontal (still slanting upward) as the canes will allow. If they don't allow it, let it be, and it will do what it does. If it's not a leafy rose, then enjoy the structure and the blooms. So it must be that rose genetics cause it to have more or less apical dominance, and those with less are more inclined to send out laterals even when vertical. Does it follow that if you go where the canes lead you, you can't be wrong? And if you don't like it, retie it in the winter. Sounds like a no-pressure deal to me. BTW, where is it written what each climber is like? Oh, yeah, the canes will tell me - or is that too simple. Or maybe I should just ask Jeri. OK, I won't move Sombreuil. I'll put down more mulch and water a lot. How's that? I really do appreciate your time today, Jeri. I learned a lot and feel more confident about climbers. Of course, if my above conclusions were wrong, you'll correct me, right? Thanks again. Sherry

Hi Bonhe you can buy orchard ladder from many arbolist supply stores. Shipping cost is high. differnce between home made and Aluminum trypod ladder is 1)Homemade is much easeir to use than factory made.but heavyer than aluminum/factory made. I use hichory saplings to make trypod ladders. hickory is stronger than oak. If you tell me what state you are in, I can tell you where you can buy orchard ladder. Also check google serch" tripod ladder". yama

You're right - Gina was holding the camera for that video, as you can tell from her voice, which is the most prominent. I have a lot of raw video with other demonstrations that I have not had time to get around to editing yet. I don't even have my sewing room completely organized yet for video editing, although the computer I use for video editing is already set up there - along with two sewing machines, which have been getting a lot of use lately. When I finish making all the drapes, curtains, pillows, and cushions that I need, I will convert the room to a video editing room. Unfortunately, it is too small to be both simultaneously. I'm still in the process of settling in, and I guess it's going to take a full year. Lars

Mapei Aquadefense is a fine product. I haven't used it in several years, but never had problems with it. It's appropriate for a shower, but not a steam shower as it's not a vapor barrier. You can find the manufacturers installation instructions online. Read them to get a feel. In general, the cement board is hung on the walls, if the boards are hung neatly, the seams and corners can simply be filled with thinset. If there are 1/8" or wider gaps, then they should use reinforcing fabric in addition to the thinset. Application of the Aquadefense will usually be two coats on all panel seams and corners. Then two additional coats over everything. The dry thickness of the final coat should be about 30 mils, but the actual number should be mentioned in the installation instructions. You can ask the person applying the Aquadefense if they have a wet mil thickness gauge. If they don't ask how they know they are putting it on at the proper thickness. That'll at least get him thinking about applying it properly. Wet mil thickness gauges can be bought for $5, maybe $10 dollars. Inspect the Aquadefense prior to them tiling. Make sure it looks good, there's no thin see-through areas, and that there are no voids or pinholes. Liquid membranes work quite well when installed properly. And to install them properly, all the person has to do is follow the directions. That's it. No shortcuts. Shortcuts lead to leaks. Benches are especially vulnerable. Considering you have a niche and a shower bench, and none of it was properly waterproofed the first time around? It's a good thing you hated the tile color! lol The cost of the demo, the new durock, the Aquadefense and the retile will be far less than what it would have cost to remediate any water damage that might have occurred down the road. Best of luck with your installation.