what is it that you are resetting? Just a reset is not descriptive enough.

Some machines, whether PTAC or not do not have resets (except for a disconnect from power). If a machine has a reset (sometimes more than one) you have to know the function of the reset. Why is the reset there for?

Typically resets are there to prevent damage to the machine. The condition it has entered is not good enough to continue to run in.

Until you find out what the reset is for / what it's purpose is, it can not be fixed. Many times these sorts of resets are tied to refrigerant circuit.

I am hoping to find someone with expertise with Amana PTAC units.

https://blog.totalhomesupply.com/reset-amana-ptac/

The system procedure reset is not a refrigerant circuit. It is for the heating element only. This reset procedure is widely know to temporarily resolve the issue I am experiencing. As long as I keep it warm, I do not have to reset it, ever. It works fine. I am looking to determine the component that needs to be replaced/ repaired to eliminate this procedure.

You (a consumer) are asking how you can rectify a manufactured defect that Amana's engineers have been unable to figure out. An extraordinary field technician might do a work around but it would cost more than it's worth plus some functions would no longer perform. Have you paid someone to look at it? If by chance someone told you how to rewire the board,do you have ability to read schematics, meters,soldering tools and electronic training required to do the job? Very few technicians attempt field repair/alternation/modification of circuit boards.

Sound's like you will be able to make the mod if someone has devised one. In your research,did anyone say wherther a new board cured the need to reset? Have you priced a new board?

Nicemac,

The reset procedure you point to is to reset the programmable options you have programmed into the board that controls the unit. So while this is 'technically' a reset switch it is merely a way to set the board back to factory defaults in case the operator induced the problem themselves, by changing settings improperly on the panel that operates the unit.

Step 2 of the procedure you posted tells you to cut master power off for 5 seconds.

What this 'could' be doing is not only resetting the board (to factory defaults) it is likely also resetting sensor faults that 'may' be the 'real problem' and causing the unit to shut down, these sensors 'may' auto reset with the absence of power.

If your plan is to fix it yourself, you have to understand what you are doing in an attempt to correct the problem.

@klem1: I have never found anyone definitively state a new board fixed it. If I can find that kind of affirmation, I will buy one.

@Austin Air Companie: In the beginning, I was disconnecting power. I discovered it works to simply power off, then press and hold the reset button. The panel is really simple. The only things you can do are select heat/cool, and set the temperature. Nothing else. So I am unsure how I could change any settings improperly.

EDIT: I thought I had located a troubleshooting manual, but the manual I found turned out to be for a different model.

yes, any time you shut power off to electronics you can reset them this way.

This will clear out any faults that sensors may be reporting back to the board. However, once those faults trigger again the unit will stop working again.

Can anyone point me to a link for a diagnostic manual for this unit?

The unit cooled great all summer. Cold weather back, so my heating issue is back!

I found a quick sheet on diagnostics for the unit. I checked codes on my unit today. When I went out to test it, it was in the “broken” state, not heating.

SP - 66
r1 - F2 (No remote thermostat present)
IA - 63
IC - 60
Id - 62
OC - 57
OA - F8 (Outdoor Ambient Temperature - this feature is not currently used)
IH - F9 (Spare probe temperature - this feature is not currently used)

After this test, I reset it, and it immediately stared heating.

Any ideas?

Couldn't find the exact diagnositics manual, but here's some interesting comments on a similar Amana Heat Pump:

"I know this is late but I had to add a solution to this problem since I had the exact same problem and was able to solve it. The probelm is not your control board. On these units, the heat pump compressor will not kick in unless the temperature you set on the control panel is within 2-1/4 degrees (or 4 degrees depending on your unit model. Otherwise, the unit locks out the compressor until the electric heat coil bring the indoor temperature up to that level - and then will switch the compressor back on for heat pump operation. So the problem is not the control panel or the compressor, it the electric heat coil. The coil has two manual limit switches on it that may be tripped and should be checked. The coil can be easily accessed by shutting down the power, removing 4 screws around the air outlet, pushing the screen up and sliding the panel out the top. The power wires can remain in place while the limit switches are reset. Hope it works."

"I had a problem with the heat not coming on in really cold weather. After much reserch and trial and error I a came to the conclusion that the heating coil was not coming on. The cool will reverse on the first stage, heating coil will come on in the second stage.
Take the front cover off of the unit. Unscrew the screws on the wire mesh and the two screws on the front below them. Pull out the wire mesh and put it aside. Slowly lift the heatng coil assembly striaght up. Grab the area you just took the screws out of. Once you get the coil out you will see the wires are conected to some terminals. On top of one of the terminals it the MANUAL RESET. It does not say it but it has a button on top. Mine was the one on the far left. Push it in till it clicks. Reassemble the unit in reverse. Mine works fine now."

Found at fixya, http://www.fixya.com/support/t1197063-amana_ptac

@North Texan, THANK YOU!

THIS is very helpful. I have a limit switch that has a reset on top of it that is tripped. However, it wil not 'click' no matter how hard I press it. Do I need to replace that limit switch?

I'm no expert, but several Amana heater posts on various boards refer to the red reset button as being on one of two black relays, connected in series, on the circuit board. They generally suggest the relay has failed/stuck, and that you can do:

1) Tap the relay a bit to see if it will unstick. (Unlikely to solve long-term, but good troubleshooting)

2) Replace the circuit board. (Assumes relays are on board, see note below)

3) Buy two replacement relays and unsolder the units and replace. (Same assumption)

Your picture appears to show the relays mounted to simple metal and pretty easy to replace...however, it seems impossible to track down replacements. If there is a model number and/or specifications on the relays, you can likely replace them, otherwise, it seems an Amana repair specialist is the best bet.

You could call Amana and try to talk to them about what might be wrong and how to get replacement parts:

Service Assistance:

1-877-376-0214Replacement Parts:1-877-839-2590

Amana part number 22312904. Bought the unit from Fergusons in 2008. Called them to buy the repair part. They would not sell to me because I am not a contractor. They had no issue selling me the unit… Just sayin'…

This is like going to the dealer and buying a car, but their parts counter refusing to sell you parts unless you are an ASE certified technician.

Anyway, I went online and got the part shipped to my door for 30% less than they would have charged me for it. If they want to stick to an antiquated business model, more power to them. It will catch up to them eventually.

Installed the new heating element assembly over the weekend. I set the temp down to 62°F and overnight last night the outside temp dropped to 26°F. The heater was cycling perfectly this morning. This seems to have fixed the problem. Thanks to everyone that responded!

Great news, good job!