Build a chimney outside where you want the wood stove to be.

How does a cement slab and lack of crawl space impact your project?

By crawl space, do you mean attic? There must be access somewhere. How can there not be??

Going through the roof is more difficult and will interfere with your shingles (or whatever is on your roof). You will also need a much longer stretch of insulated stove pipe which is much more expensive. Going through the side is easier, and it's easier to flash the hole on the vertical plane to prevent leaks (which are much less likely there anyway) than to get a good water tight seal on a roof.

Research safety very very carefully before you diy this (of course). Also check your home owner's insurance and local codes. Our insurance requires a wall, 1" gap, then 1/2" fire proof barrier (cement board, etc) with *no* gaps in it, open at the top (so no ledge, mantle, shelf, etc that closes it in) to a height of 6' behind the stove, with a gap of at least 18" between the back of the stove and that fire proof barrier. Then of course there are side and front clearances. All in all, plan on losing about 5'x5' of your floor.

I love having a woodstove in the room where I'm sleeping for the warmth, ambiance, and romance. I hate it for the ashes/soot, wood chips/bark/splinters (they will end up in your bed; consider yourself warned), and the potential for a deadly middle of the night conflagration.

Are you sure you don't want a nice oil-filled electric heater??

The electric heat is what I'm trying to avoid, lol! We're teetering between wood stove and pellet stove. We use a large pellet stove in the main structure to heat our open lower floor and it's great. Our master suite is on the main floor, but because of it's location, does not benefit from the heat that stove produces...mostly due to circulation.

The pellet stove would, indeed, run cleaner. However, because our entire house is electric, we are looking for solutions that do not require electricity (e.g. blower, fan, etc). There are a few rocket-mass style gravity pellet stoves that are EPA certified, but their enormous. So this solution would be to not only supplement the heat in the room to reduce electricity usage, but also as a heating solution in the event of a power outage. Our basement will get a full EPA gravity fed non-electric Pellet Stove once our renovations are complete, but we would still like a non-electric solution upstairs.

Thanks for the feedback and thoughts, though! And yes, I mean attic crawl space. The inspector didn't bat an eyelash, so I assume it meets code requirements here in CT.

So the best id for the insulated pie to run up through the attic and out the roof , wher eI live that is the preferred system when having it approved. If you poat a picture of the room and the outside of the house at that level maybe someone on here has a different solution

Do a propane fired heater. No mess like wood.

Be careful with ANY stove/fireplace in a bedroom - many are specifically prohibited from use in bedrooms. Take particular note of the air supply and venting requirements. Carbon monoxide is a colorless, odorless killer and has a knack of finding its way into living spaces if not properly selected and installed.

I know a family who almost died from carbon monoxide poisoning from their woodstove this winter.

It is feasible for a low pitched 14x20 addition to not require an access.

Whether you run the pipe outside, and then above the roof, or through the roof and above, the chimney will be more or less the same height. If you go outside first, the Tee and thimble could cost as much as all the other pipe. You actually need more insulated pipe outside if you go outside below the ceiling level, and need to mind the clearances for the inside elbow to the ceiling.

The 18" clearances and heat shield mentioned above are generally for "unlisted" wood burning stoves, and single wall models. Many listed stoves have clearance requirements that are much less. Be aware that you may need to use a double wall black pipe inside, since the clearance to the combustible walls above any heat shield to the pipe is 18"(?) if I remember correctly.

If there is not enough room to get into the attic, the installation can usually be done from just below and above. The location of ceiling joist may be an issue.

CO is always a concern, in general, any time a stove or any combustion heating device is actually big enough to heat the room on a cold day. You may want to look into "trailer house models" that have a combustion air intake from outside. A WOOD stove that is small enough to not potentially cause a risk in a bedroom with a closed door will probably only be big enough to hold a fire for a couple hours... certainly not all night. Aside from needing a big ugly tank, propane would be more convenient with a more steady temperature for the room.

"The 18" clearances and heat shield mentioned above are generally for "unlisted" wood burning stoves, and single wall models."

This is our homeowners insurance requirement. We can't get insurance without no matter what stove is installed. I just mentioned it so the OP would know that this is a consideration, in case s/he didn't think of it.

Jeff,

have you looked at mini split heat pump options?

While I am not a big fan of mini splits, in some situations they are the best solution and because you are mostly talking about a 'spot' heating problem the mini split option could fit the bill.

Heat pump technology is on steroids in mini split segment, many of them can heat down to very low temperatures... also if you plan ahead the outdoor units are typically small enough they can be mounted up on brackets to defeat the snow threat.

This option is also best suited when you have a plethora of exterior /interior wall space to hang the indoor heat on and exterior wise hang the condensing unit on. (Best to hang on exterior facing wall)

An added benefit to mini split option is you get additional spot cooling as well.

A non-electric free standing propane stove heater is something I'm considering. Mini split's are great, but we need non-electric solutions in the event of outages in the winter. Without a whole-house standby generator, an extended outage would result in the house being unlivable if it were cold enough.

Anything done would of course be done to code, with full inspections and permits pulled. No shortcuts, all proper installation, etc. The roof situation has me a little buggered (yes, the addition is around 14x20 with low pitch), but whichever we pick, the exhaust will definitely be the hurdle in getting there. Our ceilings are high in the addition, so I think we would be ok on clearances going out the vertical wall. And whichever solution we pick will hopefully be a closed system with exterior intake to reduce the chance of CO issues.

Having installed a few wood burners with various configurations in outbuildings I will say a short run of horizontal pipe negatively effect's draft and draft is everything when it come's to burning wood.