Consumer level "genetic testing" - not as advertised
8 years ago
last modified: 8 years ago
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Relying on Consumer Reports
Comments (26)Another CR fan here. They don't have a magical crystal ball, just engineering and user tests, so of course their "predictions" aren't absolute. But they are a way to stack the odds a bit more in the buyer's favor. Any model by any manufacturer can turn out to be a lemon. And, unless the underlying design is hopelessly flawed, any manufacturer can make an effective and reliable model. It's for the statistical in-betweens that CR helps, as well as the information their articles. And they list all the products they test, not just the ones they recommend, because they know that not everyone's needs will be met by their recommendations. For example, two weeks ago I realized that we needed to replace our dishwasher. I didn't have much time and it had been years since I had looked at what was on the market. Thanks to CR, it took all of five minutes to identify a couple of brands with models that come up high in their ratings that also had a lower frequency of repair (I don't have time to deal with repairs either) and to identify the latest features. Then it took only a few minutes at the store to pick a model. It was not a "Best Buy" because I was willing to pay more to get certain features but it was another model which ranked high. My new DW installed, running well, and I'm pleased. Is it possible somewhere there'is a better model for my purposes? Of course, but how much better would it be? Meanwhile, I saved a lot of time, and was able to get the new one before the old one stopped working. CR is supported by subscribers, so they test products of interest to the majority. Personally, I have no need for tests of commercial spaghetti sauces, for one, but since lots of people use them I don't fault CR for testing them. They usually test a few upscale products, if only to report on whether the higher price is justified objectively....See MoreConsumer Reports June issue and Duet
Comments (30)When you aimed the exhaust out your window, did you have it blowing through a window screen? If so, that's wrong. It's very difficult for air to blow *through* a screen. Try it again with the screen off the window or the exhaust duct aimed out a door, or simply laying on the floor, whatever, so the air stream has no restriction. Just wondering also ... I've seen cases in which the dryer was shoved too far back against the wall, crushing the flexible vent hose or bending it sharply. By the way, the thermostat is *supposed* to turn off (and then back on) to maintain whatever is the target temperature for the selected cycle. For your reference, below are the temperatures at which the heat shuts off. It cycles back on when the temp drops by 10°F to 15°F. High = 155°F +/- 10°F Medium = 145°F +/- 10°F Low = 125°F +/- 10°F Ex Low = 105°F +/- 5°F Your washer's spin speed does have some effect on drying time, but the new dryer still should be able to dry a load in close to the same time as the old one. Maybe your old dryer ran hotter than the new one? Did you normally use the High temperature setting on it? The starting cycle time is only an estimate. The electronic control recalculates and adjusts the remaining time based on how quickly it senses the clothes are drying, size of the load, what is the target dryness level, etc. If the two damp items were of substantially heavier fabric weight than the rest of the items in the load, it's normal for them to be damp at the end. Your dryer's electronic sensing split the difference between the lighter and heavier items. If your old dryer didn't have an electronic sensor, you may not be accustomed to how it works. Some newer dryers also tend to err toward the side of less-dry for energy saving purposes, so you may need to raise the target dryness setting by one level depending on the mix of fabrics that comprises your normal loads....See MoreYour experiences with paid consumer surveys??
Comments (23)Thanks for the ideas, everyone. I've been participating in a few consumer surveys - a couple that I know are professional surveys, that aren't hooking me up for spam, I'm sure. I've been said to be a participant in a number of those so-called regular "draws for prizes", but have yet to win anything. Some regularly show name, city and picture of a number of purported winners. Actually, how about signing up for a new email address with one of the free providers, then using that as your address for a given survey company? I did, back when Yahooo only allowed a limited space. If the survey company hooked some spammers up to my address ... ... it wasn't long till my box became so full that the provider refused to accept any more messages. Which I thought sort of gave the "survey" company a hard time - but I guess that it didn't, for they probably continued to give out my address that returned mail as undeliverable, charging their clients for my "plugged, so inoperable" address. Right now I'm rather disgusted because one of my major addresses is receiving about 500 messages in about 4 - 5 days - and I can only delete in batches of 25. I think that I made the mistake of replying to some of the more useless ones. Usually a "Reply" is returned as undeliverable - and if a salesperson who came to your door with a smiling face hanging out and, full of enthusiasm, offered you a name of him/herself or his/her company, or an address, that was fake ... ... what do you think the possibility might be that you would even give a smidgeon of thought to doing business with such?? How much more so when approached on the anonymous internet? Grumm-m-mp-p-p!! Hope you all have a week free of unwanted mail! ole joyful...See MoreOne more radon thread...what, if anything, is a consumer to do?
Comments (94)"Now I am planning to test my house for Radon. I don't have a basement but the townhouse was built on a concrete slab. Where do you suggest I test? And since this is a 2 level townhouse, do I test upstairs as well as on the 1st floor?" On what level are the entranceways to the townhome? If they are on the first level, I would check both the first and second level. This is due to constant ventilation of the first floor area when opening and closing the doors, so the upper level may actually have a higher radon content. If the doors are on the second level, as I've seen sometimes, then checking the lowest living area should be sufficient. As for the granite, this is some of what I've found: Granite is a normal, geological source of radiation in the natural environment. All of the minerals in granite contain some radioactive elements: the white or pink feldspars contain potassium-40 (which is also present in bananas and kiwis, as well as salt substitutes), the black biotites and horn-blendes contain potassium-40, uranium ore and thorium, and the small inclusions of minerals such as zircon, apatite, etc. contain uranium and thorium. The inclusions can contain the highest amounts of radioactive materials. From this I would say the radioactive content can vary greatly within a small area. We have responded to several people's requests to test their granite, and none have registered any radiation levels of note. But, they are few and far between, as Dr. Llope has found some, so the only way to be certain is to survey the granite for radiation. But the chances of your granite being of radiological concern are very slim. Joel...See More- 8 years agolast modified: 8 years ago
- 8 years ago
- 8 years agolast modified: 8 years ago
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