Sounds absolutely fine to me! 1)-3) No comment 4) The insulation will make little difference as far as sound proofing. If keeping the noise down is a big priority, use a damping system such as Quiet Rock, Green Glue or resilient channel and an extra layer of drywall. 5) If the heat pump doesn't keep humidity below 35% RH, you can always put in a portable dehumidifier. 6) If the inspector is uninformed and therefore insists on a polyvinyl vapour barrier, it won't hurt the system. There's no need to bother with Membrain, which is designed to be effective with fibrous insulation. On one project I did with cc on the walls, the inspector approved it without poly. On walls with XPS, inspectors have insisted on the poly.

We had our whole house re floored in LVP In June 2021. Within a few months a portion of the kitchen started bubbling up and splitting at the seems. The flooring guy originally came and said that he believed it was sun damage coming from our glass sliding door. We ended up replacing the door with uv protection glass and the flooring guy replaced the whole kitchen floor with a moisture barrier paper underneath. During the demo they said there was possible moisture on the floor. We had a plumber out and he determined we did not have a leak. Just a few months later it started to happen again in a different area of the kitchen. When they installed the lvp originally they went right over tile, so this time he took up the tile as well so we could see what was happening. There was no obvious water or leak. We then had all our pipes looked at. Our drain pipes scooped. Inside and outside, pool, etc. Spent a ton of $ on tests. There was no leak to be found. We think we must have a foundation slab that has a high moisture content or the soil below has a lot of moisture? That’s all we could come up with. This time for the 3rd installation they put down a moisture barrier epoxy, a wood plank sub floor, and glued the lvp down to that. It made it a year after that, but we have the same problem happening again. So they have replaced the flooring in the kitchen 3 times in less than 3 years and it needs to be replaced again now. We had the manufacturer out and they of course blamed the installation. It is mind boggling. We have had so many plumbers, and flooring companies out and no one has ever agreed on what the problem is. So, I have to replace the kitchen floors again and this time need to do something other than the LVP that matches the rest of the house. I have heard about epoxy/ painted concrete flooring and thought that might flow better than tile. Do you have a knowledge as to if it would hold up to moisture fumes as that is our best guess as to the moisture problem we have? Tile is the other option and that is what was originally in the house and there didn’t seem to be any issues with tile. any ideas?

Pressure treated plywood will rot, but alot slower than untreated. I think I used Wonderboard for that one. I didn't fasten it down at all. It is somewhat 'flexible' and heavy, so it just laid flat on its own. The customer installed a floating floor over it. I did patch the seams with a cementious floor patch to even out any slight height difference between panels. You can get a 4' X 5' panel of Wonderboard for about $10.00...that comes to 50 cents a square foot. In my customer's case, because we did two layers, it came to $1.00 a square foot, much less than a self-leveling underlayment would have cost for the same lift.

"Thoughts on best approach for re-work of siding/flashing greatly appreciated. Have heard that it might be best to cut into the brick and attach step flashing." Best way (my opinion) to attack the chimney/asphalt shingle area is with flashing and counter flashing. The flashing is typical step flashing. A piece of metal bent 90-degrees, one leg gets fastened to the roof deck with each course of shingles and the other leg runs vertically up the side of the chimney, floating (not secured) against the side of the chimney. The counter flashing covers the vertical leg of the flashing that is floating against the chimney. A groove is cut in the mortar joint and an edge of the counter flashing is inserted into that joint, held in with soft metal wedges, then the gap is sealed with sealant. The counter flashing is folded down to cover the flashing. It's a 2-piece flashing system where the two pieces move independently of one another. Here's a reference drawing to better show what I was trying to describe. When flashing a chimney, it's best to use a durable metal; typically copper or lead, or lead-coated copper. Something as durable as the chimney itself. If using aluminum, a thicker stock is more durable than the thinner gauges sold at most box stores. Your cricket or saddle? Due to the geometry I prefer to not shingle them, but they can be, especially if larger in size. Small ones are typically wood framed and completely covered with metal. Probably the most common slap-dash chimney flashing is simple single-piece step flashing that is "sealed" to the side of a chimney with several tubes of pookey. That is not the way to go.