Haven't ever used a drawer, but you too can notice that dishdrawers have square racks as regular 24" DWs 18" diswashers are a compromise for very small kitchen. I mean : draw the biggest possible circle in a 24" x 24" square, then the biggest possible circle in a 18" x 24" rectangle. You can see that corners in the square are closer to the circle, while rectangle ones are not that close Spray arms draw a circle while spinning. So the spray action in rack corners is more effective in square rack designs (DD and 24" DW) than rectangular rack design (18" DW) If one is aware of this and loads a 18" DW consequently, there's no problem. But if you load tall and narrow juice glasses soiled of orange juice in the corners of a rectangular rack (18" DW), you can't pretend the will be cleaned as well as a dishdrawer or a regular 24" machine do Anyway a single drawer holds less items than the two racks of a 18" machine A regular 18" or 24" machine is more flexible than a double dishdrawer : in case of extralarge items you can raise the upper rack or even take it out (Bosch), with a dishdrawer ... you can handwash. I guess space is not your issue (a single drawer is as large as a 24" machine), rather you aren't supposed to have a daily full load in a regular 24" DW In this case be aware that latest european 24" DW have load size sensing devices and use 7-8 litres of water (round 2 gallons) for a *full= two racks* load. The *single* dishdrawer uses 1.95 gallons per load, so partially loaded 24" machines can even use less water than a *single* drawer. To cut a story short : if you have place go for a regular machine : it cleans better, you'll have plenty of place for those times you have guests at dinners and on the other side you can run partial loads without feeling "guilty"

D.J Healy, Obviously you're having some extreme problems. My DishDrawer is now past 12 years of age and has not had any such continual/recurring problems are you've experienced. I surely don't have to prewash or postwash anything. I would love to get a hands-on look at your machine and your usage habits to see what may factors may be contributing to your dissatisfaction. I'm in TX but about 5.5 hrs from DFW area. A couple months ago I noticed water leaking on the floor to varying degrees after running loads at various times in both the upper and lower drawers. Upon investigating I found that both drain hoses had developed cracks -- both were cracked behind the DishDrawer where they made a sharp bend toward the opening in the cabinetry partition to the sink plumbing, the lower hose was also cracked a few inches from where it attached to the pump. The drain hoses flex every time the drawers are open/closed so it's not unusual that a crack may occur after years of use. I have experience working on appliances so can DIY pretty much any repair (except refrigeration!). F&P parts are available from a couple online sources. The backlight on the upper drawer's LCD panel had gone out a year or so earlier (which didn't prevent the unit from working, the operational icons and cycle time were displayed, just not lit from behind) so I took the parts-order opportunity to replace it. There have been updates on the lid motors (mine were still working at 12 years) and hose/wiring supports (upper had broken a couple years ago, I patched it with a zip-tie) so I also got a kit package to update my older unit on those points. No other repairs for the 12-years duration to that point. Regards to cleaning performance, below are some examples of what I load-in and how it comes out. I didn't take these pictures just now, I have them on-hand from previous discussion posts. Baked chicken (sat for several days before washing). Boiled-over oatmeal with raspberry jam. Microwaved pasta & sauce.

We have a Fisher Paykel Dishwasher that I've posted about a few times. It's been nothing but trouble. Now that we understand dishwashers more than we ever wanted to, we can see why the drawer design has more problems. We have had more than TWENTY service calls over 5 years. They eventually replaced the first one with a new one - and after six service calls in one month (and two major floods that ruined our brand new kitchen floor), we gave up. I will say that the service person was befuddled by the F and P - there are only a few in our area, and he just didn't know what he was doing. The short version of what doesn't/didn't work about EITHER of our F and P drawers is the pumping system. The pump needed to clear out the lower drawer just never works (and the lid motors have failed repeatedly - that's the part that seals one drawer off from the other). Research your KitchenAid drawer DW carefully - go read reviews on epinions and Amazon.com We will *never* buy another drawer dishwasher, there's a reason that most diahwashers have been and always will be door-based instead. Read reviews of the best dishwashers to see how many drawer-models there are. We thought we could live with the lack of flexibility in size of objects put into a drawer (and we have - since only one drawer at a time has ever worked consistently), but I'd opt for a zoned dishwasher with a door any day of the week. You can save just as much water and energy with the newer dishwashers that only clean one rack at a time, and without the INCREDIBLE HASSLE OF THE VARIOUS MOTORS that have to operate in a drawer model. I've posted about this before, but I'm back today to try and search for a new diahwasher (we've given up altogether on the F and P- and we're not the only people on this forum who have had that problem). If you're lucky and get a good one, I'm happy for you, though - they are very nice to look at and do get dishes clean when they are working. Bosch was going to be our next choice, but the houses burning down due to faulty electronics, the lawsuits and the late recall notices are now turning me off Bosch. So if anyone has a dishwasher to recommend - at all - I'd love to hear what it is!

Where did the furnace come from? Ask him. Possible bad reasons he cannot: it's a left over unit from previous job, and has actually been in his inventory for some time. And he doesn't want you to know this. Because that means it wasn't selected for your needs, but for his. It is a scratch/dent or closeout from the distributor and non returnable. He got a good deal, and doesn't want you to know how cheap it was. For any of these reasons, he may be reluctant to show you the receipt. Neither of these are that bad, but they may not be what you ultimately would want. If one of these turns out to be the case, I think it may indicate that he was trying to get you the best price on the furnace, and that he based his work to you on this good deal on the equipment. So if you want something else, get something else, but be prepared to pay the fair difference. If you think he would respond, then consider telling him that you understand he based his price to you on the cost he could get for the furnace he chose, and the time and work and accessories it would take to correctly install it. Say you want something else, and if he will be up front with you about the costs. Use this example. If you had asked for a standard dishwasher, and then said you wanted a better one with a custom front, you would expect that he couldn't use the "builder's special deal" dishwasher to do this. The fact remains that it came from somewhere, and that distributor or source should at least be able to find out, based on serial number of the unit, when it was sold to him and then backtrack into their accounting records and get a receipt.