Bright (High Lumen) LED flush-mount ultra-thin light?
ctsnicholas
6 years ago
last modified: 6 years ago
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ctsnicholas
6 years agoRelated Discussions
Disappointed with my LED recessed lights ... what now?
Comments (48)Light sources have a spectrum. In some cases it is narrow, and in others wider. The sun, for example, emits through the entire visual spectral band, as well as UV and IR. tungsten and tungsten halogen are hot emitters with various spectral bands generally characterized by their apparent color temperature. The sun's spectrum is close to that of a 6000K (degrees kelvin) black body, whereas tungsten lights may be 2700K and tungsten halogens up to 3300K. The latter color temperatures are considered lower than the sun color temperatures, but are called warmer. Arc lamps that are spectrally broad may fall into the same color temperature range as the sun, but depending on line structure from the gasses used and the pressure that they are running at, may appear redder or bluer than the sun. Note that as these thermal sources are turned down with a dimmer, they become redder (warmer color) even though they are getting colder, physically. Now, getting to light emitting diodes, there are two types that I'm aware of being used for illumination (excluding variants). One type emits mainly at a single color, but because they are not true laser sources, this color band may be somewhat wide. Combinations of these sources may be used to try to match the tristimulus diagram of human eye response and look like a black body emitter at some color temperature. High color temperatures are considered colder because they have more blue; lower temperatures are considered warmer because they have more red. Note that this is referring to color temperature, and not LED physical temperature. The Cree LR4s had a scheme for re-balancing the color temperature as the LEDs aged. As I recall they were available in two different color temperatures for different applications. A clothing store, for example, might want a higher (colder) color temperature for interior illumination, whereas a kitchen might prefer something warmer (lower color temperature). (No one should be embarrassed if confused by this contradictory nomenclature.) Cree provided me a (proprietary) spectral chart that showed that their color spectrum was broad, but not particularly close to matching a black body spectral diagram. To avoid any post construction complaints I bought a single lamp and tested it against my soapstone and granite to ensure that the green highlights in each were being properly illuminated to provide a pleasing color balance when illuminated with the warmer LR4 option. The second type of LED source uses a deep blue or UV LED (or array of LEDs) to illuminate a phosphor or a combination of phosphors intended to emit a particular "whitish" color temperature. These phosphors tend to look yellow when viewed with the lamp off. By choosing the phosphor chemistry, and possibly over coating with filters, different color temperature sources are created. The goal is to know what color temperature one wants before specifying the particular lights to be used. If you want a tungsten halogen color temperature, specify 3200K - 3300K. For regular tungsten, 2700K - 2800K is good. Higher values toward 4000K will be bluer and more blue sky matching. As an aside, LG was able to cut the cost of organic LED (OLED) TVs by using all white (phosphor) blue-emitting OLEDs with red/green*/blue filters rather than the more difficult to manufacture sets of red/green/blue single color LEDs. kas *maybe yellow, I'm to lazy to go look...See Moreled undercabinet - too bright?
Comments (39)davidr, You're right. there were previously 6 bare bulbs in the kitchen an 1 indoor flood in the pantry. Now there are 12 recessed cans in the kitchen and 4 in the pantry. Certainly in the old kitchen there was more ambient light but as for asthetics, well there weren't any. The ceilings are 7.5 ft. so pendents aren't really an option except maybe over the sink. I considered a flush mount or two but decided I like this look and feel better. As for getting the light where it's needed I think it worked out well. willinak, The only LEDs I have are the UC lights. They're from emeralight. Here's the link. Here is a link that might be useful: Emeralight.com...See MoreHelp Needed With LED Lighting, Please!
Comments (16)Justgotta, the current light fixtures are for halogen lights only. We need to find replacements for the actual lights themselves. Will call Cree in the am. However, their lights are also well over $100 each, not including installation. Maybe they will give me a discount for buying 13. Annie, we live in the country amidst a LOT of wildlife. (During the last snow there was a raccoon in my back yard.). In front, we need the bright spots to illuminate the center island in the middle of the turnaround, as there is no other lighting...the island is at least 100 feet in diameter, it is big, people need light getting out of their cars so they do not step on anything like deer piles. Also, two spots aimed at house, in addition to the lights on top of brick walls, as we have three steps down, then a walkway, then five steps up. These are the six lights out front. They are installed in the ground and are metal, square halogen fixtures. We have one mounted under the eave above the library door and another about 20 feet away (also mounted to the eave). This is where we exit with our trash, and it is a hike down to our trash cans, about 75 feet, across brick path, grass, gravel, and beside a large area of ivy, snake heaven. We have to have light here. Don't ask me how I know that, do not want to relive the rattlesnake story! In back we have three of these lights, also mounted under the eaves, that illuminate: 1. Steps down to swim spa deck from upper deck, 2. Small porch where gas grill is located, as well as a different set of steps down to patio, and 3. Gate to turnaround on garage end of house. So the short form is that we live in the dark woods, with many scary, poopy critters, and steps everywhere. I need enough light so I don't park wrong, get bitten, or break my neck! And,,I cannot count. By this list I need 14!...See MoreWhy did you decide on recessed or flush mount lights?
Comments (40)Thanks for the informative post Nicpedia and others. For those unaware of the energy and indoor air problems introduced by recessed lighting, Ban the Can and Kick the Can might help. Uncontrolled air movement (even with ICAT) is the main issue, contributing to ice dams, wasted energy, moisture transport and possibly backdrafting combustion appliances, sucking in attached garage air or soil gases like radon. Non-AT cans reportedly leak as much as 20 CFM but even 2CFM times X number of can lights can add up to the same amount of air movement as a fan. I think well designed can lighting has a role to play, particularly for artwork and kitchens. David's threads in lighting forum is helpful for novice can designers and this kitchen design article in FHB has graphics but requires subscription. LED and evolving lighting technology requires special dedication for best enlightenment. From what I understand, manually sealing holes in any recessed cans is a fire hazard and why most experts recommend custom enclosures or tenmat hats as outlined at bottom of this recessed can lights article on FHB. It's a laborious PIA, falling outside typical subcontractor scopes adding to can's upfront costs. Be careful thinking that 1st level or conditioned, unvented attics are safe for cans. Homes leak at floor framing bands and the attic, even with spray foam throughout. Blower door tests prove that recessed can lights are major pathways for unwanted air movement. The bulb acts as the "fire" for the micro-chimney effect. As for gaskets included in trim kit, don't expect the electrical sub to include them. Roof details are often contentious and I agree that spray foam at roof deck is on the rise throughout, mainly thanks to stricter building codes. The point is to never install ducts outside the conditioned space (vented attic or vented crawlspace.) Spray foam at roof deck doesn't necessarily mean better. The main thing is that the spray foam industry is falsely advertising and recommending below code levels of insulation. R-value is a different measurement than air-leakage (blower door). Spray foam insulation should not be allowed to use anything "air movement" to prescribe R-value. R38 = ~11" of open cell (R3.5 per inch). Others seem to go with 5.5" - 7" thick, which is R20 to R25, barely half of prescribed code minimum! Along with the pathetic energy performance of thin spray foam are the moisture concerns. From the research I've read, best practice includes a supply and return from the HVAC system in the attic. If not, spray foam could be contributing to high moisture content in the structural sheathing. Tough to argue with Joe Lstiburek who points to a best case vented attic AND having ductwork in conditioned space. Building higher performing vented (unconditioned) attics requires some important considerations. Eliminating storage, raised heel trusses, and sheathing/taping entire upper ceiling before building interior walls is often necessary. Flat roof lines and full vault ceilings do best with insulation at roof deck but on top of structural sheathing. We often use SIPS for this, especially with timber framing. Open web trusses and walkout basements are better at hosting ductwork. Achieving current code minimum or better energy performance can eliminate the need for long duct runs to exterior walls and windows. Well designed systems have centrally located mechanical spaces, cleverly hidden trunk lines, and supply registers at interior walls. Ducted and ductless mini-splits are other possibilities. It's great to involve an energy rater in upfront decisions but be careful with applying simple paybacks to individual components. Few raters have the experience for proper input, often involving many assumptions at the design stage and the software is designed to not overpromise. Best to follow or exceed current international code minimum prescriptions, especially blower door requirements for cost-effective results....See Moretatts
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