Help with lighting plan for small kitchen, please

6 years ago

last modified: 6 years ago

If you can offer a lighting plan/ideas for this small kitchen, I'll be very grateful. I'm (very slowly) losing central vision on top of the usual loss with aging, so I'd rather err on the side of more light than less.

Cans over counters as both general and task lighting? Placement? I'm thinking a light over each sink from a closed soffit above. I read on Houzz that it's a good idea to have a light on each side of the stove in addition to the exhaust light when possible. Where should others be? Must lights be at cabinet centers? Must they "match" the opposite wall? No light needed at fridge? Should a central light be added for more general lighting on floor and lower cabinets or would the cans be enough?

Or... cans for general lighting, combined with UC task lighting? Two rows of three cans, 3’ oc and 6’ oc from the back (sink) wall, 3' out from side walls? Middle two on a separate switch from the outer four? Floodlights? Too much for K size? UC lighting sufficient for task lighting (someone on Houzz wrote they are only good for accent lighting)?

Mini pendants over eating counter - 2 or 3?

Thank you, with all best wishes for 2018, Ann

Featured Answer

PRO

Brilliant! Lighting & Design

6 years ago

Hi Ann,

You've not mentioned details which might affect decisions, like ceiling height, proposed finishes, recessed light size, etc. However, you might consider a recessed pattern like the attached using a good quality 6" light at a standard clg. ht. & all on one dimmer.

Consider using Lithonia Wafer LED in 2700K or 3000K as a good option.

For the peninsula it feels like 2 mini pendants would be appropriate.

Under cabinet lighting should be on a third dimmer, and that way you have good control over the various types of fixtures to set light levels best for whatever activity.

Good luck! Post pics when all done.

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Comments (6)

Kim
6 years ago
I like the suggestions from Brilliant Lighting above. We have a 12X12 kitchen with four recessed lights on a dimmer. They aren't necessarily centered with cabinetry, but are in a rectangular pattern approximately 5-6 feet apart with one centered with the fridge. The electrician recommended placing them about two feet out from the upper cabinets, so they would be less likely to cast shadows when standing at the counter.

We also have under cabinet lighting on a dimmer (one light for every 2 1/2 feet of cabinet) and a pendant light over our sink. We don't have a peninsula; but, if we had one like your's with three seats, there would be two small pendants over it and a recessed light or flush/semi-flush ceiling light over the sink instead of having another hanging light in the room.

Hope that helps!
Ann thanked Kim
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Several comments 1. I would use the rough rule of ~35 lumens per sq ft and an approx output of 600 lumens per can (6") to figure out the number required. 2. I would do the above calculation without under cabinet lighting. 3. The output from led under cabinet lighting exceeds the xenon counterparts. 4. You will need to decide whether you will use low voltage or Ac for the under cabinet lights. 5. The Philips eW profile powercore led strips are dimmable as are talea-HP and other led strips.
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thanks dim4fun & homepro01. homepro01, to answer your question, yes, Fluorescent cans do count toward the high efficacy wattage in title 24. (Only the kind that take only fluorescent bulbs. You can't do it by plugging in fluorescent bulbs into incandescent fixtures.) I checked out Contrast Lighting on line but I'm not sure whether the cans (MR16s) would be considered high efficacy? Aren't they halogen? dim4fun, for those Juno lights, do I butt them up against each other to cover every linear inch under cabinets? If I stick with the non-cheating plan, and go with 5" cans, that gives me 6x26=156 watts in high efficacy watts in cans, plus about 120 watts in undercab Junos. I getting close...only 26 watts to go! How about one more can in front of the french door ? Is there a better place?
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Rosie, Sorry for MIA. Thanks for thoughtful questions. You got me thinkingÃ¢ÂÂ¦.. Here are my answers: Hi, Nancymark. To start, you don't say what needs all these changes will meet. What functions are you hoping to improve over the original layout? I wanted to create more cabinet space, so I moved the refrigerator and add pantry to the dining room. Very importantly, is there no way to work within the original footprint to get a kitchen that will function for you? What kind/amount of cooking does your family do? Good point. I cook dinner daily from scratch. So I do use the kitchen extensively and we love to eat. We have friends over for dinner but nothing fancy. Why do you want to move the refrigerator to the back wall of the dining area? That was my way of creating more cabinet space. I also want to get CD refrigerator which means I donÃ¢ÂÂt have enough space where it is now. My vent hood is going to be 36Ã¢ÂÂ instead of 30Ã¢ÂÂ ( what I have now). What will an island do for you that a peninsula would not? Or, why do you want an island? Currently there are 6 feet inside the U. I think I am wasting space there, I usually cook alone. With the island, I can move it closer to the range and create seating on the other side. In addition, I thought I can possibly put refrigerator at the end of L, ie sink, then DW, then counter depth refrigerator. Regarding your current proposed layout, on first glance it seems to miss achieving improved functionality, not only because the refrigerator is now back in the dining area, but because of the positions of the potential work surfaces in relation to the work triangle. An efficient triangle would normally be defined by your movements from refrigerator to sink to stove--working within that triangle, but the island surface is outside that and so is that really nice counter space to the right of the sink. It would be helpful to examine, right in the beginning, any assumption that a sink should/must be placed in front of a window. Why? What makes rinsing lettuce and dishes so much more special than drying lettuce, chopping onions, measuring spices, beating eggs, and so on and on? :) GOOD POINTS.
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hi, are you still in need of some advice on this? if so, please reply and I can provide more detail. in general, yes, the recessed lights are too far away from the counters and will create shadows as you work (since the light sources will be behind you). even adding good under-cabinet lighting won’t remove the shadows completely. good luck. be sure to post pictures of your finished spaces.
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Ann
Original Author
6 years ago
Brilliant: I thought I added this but apparently not. The ceiling height is 8'. The cans I have are 5" but contractor suggested 4" and I can use the 5" elsewhere. I'm not sure what you mean by finishes - white cabinets, gray w blue undertones ceramic tile floor (cool), formica counter that is blended/mottled shades of gray and some black and some tiny white areas. Stainless sinks. Stove and fridge will be white or stainless - leaning to white.
acm
6 years ago
I like Brilliant's layout, but I'd do all cans just 18" from wall, rather than what Kim's suggesting, so that the light is always in front of you when you stand at the cabinets. If you have any kind of vision issues, then be sure to supplement with under-cabinet lighting, which can do wonders for detail work.
Ann thanked acm
Ann
Original Author
6 years ago
last modified: 6 years ago
Brilliant: Re mini pendants, would an 8" H and 5" diameter be considered small enough to use two?
PRO
Brilliant! Lighting & Design
6 years ago
Ann, Yes those finishes are always best to be considered as part of the overall aesthetic and in planning the lighting - paint colors, reflective (& non-reflective) surfaces, counter materials, etc. all play a part in the lighting design.

Yes, those minis should be a fine size.

RE: 4"/5"/6" lights? Typically I suggest larger sizes as they can produce more lumens (more quantity of useable light) and always utilizing dimmers. More useable lumens is better for 'aging in place' concerns (where our eyes lose strength/perception as we age) and dimmer use can extend the life cycle of many bulbs.

acm, Yes, under- (& over- where appropriate) cabinet lighting is an important element in the overall design.

RE: distance from the wall. This is always important to figure out case by case. I.E. a 15" deep upper cabinet (or corner cabinets like Ann's plan) might not be good with 18" light location since it will create a 'hot spot' of lighting, where an 18" location over (or to either side of) a sink can be just right since we often 'lean in' while cleaning up (& for Ann's plan the single sink light is even closer to the wall, in the soffit that was mentioned).
Ann thanked Brilliant! Lighting & Design

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