How warm must it be to do outside repotting?
dviolet1
6 years ago
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irina_co
6 years agodviolet1
6 years agoRelated Discussions
How warm must night-time temps be before moving seedlings outdoor
Comments (2)I've got the same question but with my Lako seedlings. I live in California and our summers are long and hot. I don't want to introduce them outside and have them roast....See MoreHow big do seedlings need to be to transplant outside
Comments (2)You can transplant them out into the ground any time after they have true leaves. You do have to harden them off too, though, because even though they are cool-season plants, they nave not been exposed to cold temperatures or wind or sun inside the house, so it is the same hardening off drill you'd use for anything else. Dawn...See MoreNewbie, how do I repot a very short stalk, branched, long stemmed
Comments (22)re-reading, especially Karen & Bill (not that I don't appreciate everyone else--the bottle method really sounds interesting): I've gotten a little more courage reading Bill's final entry and understand much more clearly: essentially, plant what I have, 4" deep, in mostly perlite, water once, give heat & light. But Bill, Karen, anyone, do you think I'd actually be okay, cutting off a branch and make two cuttings? My 1st experience trying to grow a p. was with a Hawaiian Yellow (or was it Gold?). It was a disaster. I was told to try water rooting. Never rooting a Plumeria before, I do what I'm told. --usually when I water-root, anthing, I see roots within a few days or at the most a couple of weeks. And I keep clean water in the container. But this cutting sat & sat and did nothing. After a couple of months, there still was nothing. Since it didn't root, I was advised to take it out of the water; cut off the bottom to check for rot (the color inside was a beautiful white, so ok); soak it in hydrogen peroxide for a couple of hours, let dry overnight, dip the cut into a very dilute solution of bleach/water for good measure, then into rooting hormone and pot up in a sterile mix, setting the base 4" deep, watering once. I did all that. Poured a cup of water + superthrive around the stem, sat the container on a heating pad, and gave plenty of fluorescent light: both going 24/7. Within a few days, it leafed out. Since it couldn't have put out roots in a couple of days, I began misting the leaves on a daily basis, with tepid, tap-water. However, within two weeks the cutting went mushy. I checked; and, the entire inside was black. I suppose, even though I thought everything was sterile and the Hydrogen peroxide killed all germs, the cutting was attacked by some kind of fungus or mold, that must be in my house. If I divide this cutting, how do I keep the demise from happening to each of the new cuttings? (I do have some agricultural sulfur; also a copper, fungicide--as well as bleach and H2O4.) How long do I wait, for the wounds to heal before potting either cutting? Now, for my really, dumb (non-knowing about Plumeria neewbie) question: When growing flowers, usually the center is pinched out, so it will make more branches and more flowers. Making two cuttings out of this one, seems to be doing the opposite: fewer branches, fewer flowers. Thus, a branched plumeria will have more flowers and be more sought after. Why, then, is a single stemmed plumeria, preferable to one that is branched? Bob...See MoreHow do bolero and nahema do in warm weather?
Comments (14)I'm USDA Zone 7a in Maryland so my growing conditions are different from yours. I also haven't had NAHEMA for very long. I planted the rose last spring as a replacement for HERITAGE. Please keep these things in mind. I did like what I saw last spring and summer. The own root plant was tiny. I mean REALLY TINY: An own rooted band, which is a nice way of saying it was a twig. So considering it was an embryo, the "band" put on a good amount of size. More so than the either BOULE DE NEIGE or LOUISE ODIER which were also bands planted in the same bed at the same time. By the end of summer NAHEMA had grown into a 3-foot v-shaped shrub. Pretty darn good. I just walked outside and looked at the plant and it is already budding for spring, so she sailed through our abnormally cold winter and ice storms. One thing struck me as I gazed at the naked canes was how they were nearly thornless. HERITAGE is advertised as a "thornless" rose but that is not completely true. She has thorns, which are medium sized and spaced widely apart. NAHEMA is an improvement as the thorns are smaller and spaced even wider apart. I swear if it weren't for a few prickles that rose would be smooth. The mat, dark green foliage is weird. No other way to put it. The edges curl giving it a holly-like look. I had read about the foliage here on the forums so it was expected. Still looked weird, but the leaves do clothe the canes better than the foliage on HERITAGE, which is kinda sparse. NAHEMA's foliage is also more resistant to black spot, but here in black spot hell did need spraying by mid-summer. Keep in mind in Maryland EVERY modern rose needs spraying with fungicides. Even the much vaulted Knock Outs. As for the blooms - yeah I made you wait for it - they are a decided improvement. I really liked HERITAGE for her nicely shaped shrub, continuous repeat bloom, and ravishingly beautiful blooms but those flowers have no vase life unless you cut them in tight bud. Even then once the bloom matures - either on the bush or in the vase - it drops the petals literally WITHIN HOURS. Drove me crazy. So I closely monitored the development of NAHEMA's blooms as they matured. Much better. Same shell pink color and globular flower form, but Nahema's blooms have more petals, and no they don't ball. You get approximately 2-3 more days before they shatter. I can live with that. The fragrance is actually stronger and sweeter. I like it better. I was surprised by the repeat bloom. You don't usually see much on own root modern roses until the third year, but Nahema bloomed all summer. Not as quick as Heritage but hey, the rose is a baby. Best of all and thank goodness, the stems don't nod the flowers. HERITAGE doesn't either so no surprise there. In my limited experience NAHEMA is an improvement on HERITAGE. Although classified as a climber, I intend to train NAHEMA as a shrub using frequent pruning to keep it in check. That is all I have for now. You should buy it. I got mine from Rogue Valley Roses....See Moreirina_co
6 years ago
Rosie1949
6 years agolast modified: 6 years agodviolet1
6 years agoRosie1949
6 years agoYOLANDA
6 years agodviolet1
6 years ago
Paul MI
6 years agolast modified: 6 years agoRosie1949
6 years agoPaul MI
6 years agoRosie1949
6 years agoPaul MI
6 years agoRosie1949
6 years agoTiffu (Oregon 8b)
6 years ago
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