I'm learning more all the time. Can you tell me more about the TXV metering device for the E-Coil? My current 80% unit already has a condensate drain pump used when I run the AC in the summer and I have not had a problem with it. This self contained pump sits on the floor next to the furnace and pumps the condensate into my sump pump then the sump pump pumps it out of the house. Wouldn't I just run the high efficiency furnace moisture drain pipe out to the same pump? I have to imagine that moisture drain pipe is up high on the High Efficiency unit and my condensate pump is on the floor, gravity will do the job unless the pump fails and the water backs up into the furnace. Is that the same moisture drain pipe that I have on my current 80% efficiency furnace that drains the condensate when I run the AC in the summer? One of the quotes I got from a HVAC hybrid install (95% efficient furnace w/ 2 stage variable speed furnace and 15 or 16 SEER Heat Pump) was to put a catch pan under the furnace with the furnace up on blocks and put a pump in the drain pan that pumps the condensate water into my sump pump. This gives you more time to deal with a pump going bad vs the self contained pump I have currently. I have another question about buying the new 95% efficient furnace. My current furnace is 80% effecient and is 100,000 BTUs. I have replacement choices of 90,000 BTU or 115,000 BTU replacement. My house is 2000 sq. ft, not including basement. Is there much efficiency difference between the 2 choices? I know the bigger unit will probably supply more heat, but is that at more cost in energy? Or is the difference nominal. My first thought is to go with the bigger unit for only $100-$200 more in cost. Mikes

Thanks for all your help. I am glad I found this site to become somewhat educated in HVAC. Homeowners are leary and to be truthful (as I have found)it is hard to find a HVAC professional that seems responsive. Maybe it's me but it seems they don't want to deal with anyone that has alot of questions. They just want to see what you have, Replace with same equipment and move on. I do feel bad for the good HVAC specialists because there is a lot of time wasted on price shoppers. To be honest I suffered sticker shock at first but this site allowed me to get comfortable with what needed to be done and the cost. I think I finally found one and hope the install goes without a hitch. Due to all your advice I decided on the XL14i Heatpump for the above system. The contractor also added a 10 year labor warranty from his company, which I am comfortable with. Also the first year maintenace is free. Really a nice guy with 3 employees. Total Cost $ 6000. I may have been able to get the job done for less with different equipment, but this contractor was the most responsive of those I contacted. Carries both Ruud and Trane but was really pushing the Trane so I took his advice. Once again Thanks I will continue to Lurk. Hopefully I will report back after install with Glowing reports. Kansas

I will try to look this up on the directory but first you need to verify the model numbers you listed especially the furnace. What is your location and size of your home? I question the need for a 100 KBTU furnace. Has this system been installed? TD

I have a fairly new unit less than 5yrs old. After the installment i had continuous problems with the ac in which the installers had to eat the price on service because they had never completely fixed the problem over a3 yr period and say least a dozen service calls. But now my heater is not working i called same company who installed unit. They sent a tech who diagnosed the control board as being the problem. I only question this because the fan kicks on but never lights error code is pressure switch open. The tech checked the unit but never turned it on from the thermostat to try and get it to run? And then tells me is the circuit board which from my price checking is a very costly repair. I'm just wondering if and how they can say it's that with out even turning on the unit. The ac is working fine now its just the heater that isn't working. So i guess the real question is am i right to be sceptical about the diagnosis?