The sink is an old double bowl farmhouse sink. The faucets will be wall mounted on the 8" backsplash. The counter space on either side are the same height. The 1st and 3rd window are full sized and the middle window is shorter on the bottom to allow for the 8" backsplash. Initially, my designer wanted to leave that as wall but I really want as much light as possible and can't see standing at the sink and seeing only wall or cabinet so I pushed for the shorter window. On the outside I will build a flowerbox to mask the different length of window. It will look something like the link below (same sink, same faucet, maple counter), only less expensive ;) I can't comment on the structural questions. It isn't my forte. But, the three windows are replacing an old picture window that leaks like a sieve so there will actually be more support in the new frames than is currently there now. Angie, thanks for the comment on bulbs. I will get a selection of different kinds to try them out. To confirm, as long as I stay below the full wattage (40W) I will be safe. The output will vary by type of bulb. Do I have that right? Here is a link that might be useful: [My south wall inspiration[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/repurposing-a-salvaged-sink-traditional-kitchen-burlington-phvw-vp~382928)

I highly recommend LED bulbs; we have about 100 3.6W MR16-style LED bulbs in our house in 3" mini-can housings, all at about 4500K (neither warm nor cool white). Each gives about as much light as a 35-40W halogen bulb. Our 19 x 21' kitchen has 15 for general lighting, plus the following task lighting: 4 over our 13' counter with main sink; 8 over our 5 x 9' main island; and 4 over our 3'3" x 9' small island. The 72" wide range hood came with ten 40W PAR20 bulbs but light a 9' wide area including range and landings; we'll be replacing the 40W bulbs with 5W dimmable LED bulbs. This is a good amount of light, not too much, not too little. Well, in the range hood area 50W of LED bulbs (equivalent to about 500W of halogen lights) is actually too much light but it's dimmable, not that my wife will use any setting but MAX. (There are also 10W LED bulbs available, but my wife has no self control when it comes to light and WILL burn out her retinas if I let her.) The standard medium base "Edison" bulb is not a form factor well suited to LEDs because while filaments (tungsten, halogen) are point sources and radiate in all directions, LEDs are VERY directional and have limited dispersion (15-60 degrees). Most LED medium base bulbs have more LEDs pointing outward with very few pointing up, some nearly exclusively point upward (downward in a pendant application). The distribution and "point" of the individual LEDs will affect whether the ambience (outward glow) or the task function (downward lumens) will work. Most pendant shades do have an inner white lining to even out the light distribution, and that will improve your downward light output for task lighting. LED color is tricky as well, as many are very cool white and won't give you that warm glow you expect from the pendant shade. A warm white (3000-3500K) bulb will give you the best ambience, whereas a pure white (4000-4500K) will give you the best task lighting. Another caution: pendants spaced too far apart look odd, but too close looks worse. I would recommend a spacing of about every 2-3'. Also, there should be ideally 3, or 4 max. Slimmer/smaller ones can be spaced a little closer and you can have more of them and still look fine. There are metallic shades (if modern works for your kitchen) that will give you a lot more task lighting. Here is a link that might be useful: [Houzz Pendant Light Ideabook[(https://www.houzz.com/magazine/kitchen-islands-pendant-lights-done-right-stsetivw-vs~158689)

I know that to meet electrical code, where there is water around electricity, you have to be careful. Which is why they do not want a chandelier fixture over a bathtub, things like that. And, even though you are short, your arms and reach are just like taller folks. Plus, you have big cookie sheets and trays which you will be washing at the kitchen sink, and you do not want to hit them on the light fixture. Just for safety sake, plan on keeping it at least 30 inches above your counter top. I think with Candace Olsen she said with a chandelier to keep a chandelier 30 inches above the surface of a dining table, so you have an unimpeded view of folks across the table from you. Working this out, a counter top is 36 inches high. Then you put the fixture 30 inches above that, and it is 5.5 feet from the floor. If you are taller than 5 feet 6 inches, you raise it up so you have a clear view out the window. I'm thinking with a seven foot ceiling, the pendant would be 12 inches below the ceiling, should you have a window over your sink. I might be missing something here, but when I do my kitchen, I have an 8 foot 2 inch ceiling to deal with, and I want a garden window so I can see all the birds at my feeders in the garden outside there. If it is going to be a problem, think about a different kind of focused light to shine on your task at the sink.

Hi, David. Thanks for your response. Answers below: This is our main work space where we write and read frequently, so I would prefer better direct lighting. The recessed lighting we installed is definitely a help, but I think we want more. I'm guessing we will spend $100 or $200 putting these in. We can go higher if necessary, but I haven't really seen a reason to based on what styles we are looking at. We personally just like the look, and we would like to modernize the space somewhat. We would like better direct lighting over this area as we eat, read, write, etc. in this exact spot all the time. We are a little limited because of the wood trim and relative traditional style of the home, so we want to modernize without making styles clash. So far, we are leaning toward three mini-pendants with shades that are roughly 8" tall and 5" wide. We would like to bring some color into the space, so we are leaning toward red as this matches the red in the other parts of the kitchen which unfortunately isn't visible in my pictures. Absolutely nothing. In fact, that is what we are currently leaning towards. We were always going to do individual mini-pendants, but we were struggling if we should have two over by the chairs and nothing by the section by the carpet since there isn't a chair there or if we should just do three mini-pendants and uniformly light the BB. Honestly, I think my wife is simply uncomfortable with putting pendants in an arc since she always sees them in a line, but I think that's simply because 99% of the pendants that I see are over straights pieces like BBs and islands. Do you normally see pendants curved to follow the lit area? I would assume you would, but you are the expert, so I thought I would ask.