Increase ceiling height or keep at 8ft during major remodel/addition?
Anthony Law
6 years ago
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David Cary
6 years agoJAN MOYER
6 years agoRelated Discussions
Show me your remodel w/8 ft ceilings
Comments (30)Did a 1959 ranch galley last summer, 8' ceilings, took out the soffits and took 42" uppers right to the ceiling, no crown or molding. Doing a 1979 ranch galley this summer, 8' ceilings, took out the soffits and just got my cabinets with 39" uppers. Going to start installing this weekend. After I ordered though I realized I blew it and will have to be creative. I have a shaker style cabinet and want a simple look on the crown. The company's simple crown is only two inches tall so I am going to be an inch short of the ceiling. So I thought I could just push the uppers up an inch but NOOOO, I had to order one of those taller uppers with an appliance cabinet in it so it sits on the counter top and will set the top height of all my uppers! So I either have to leave the inch gap or I need to build up my crown which shouldn't be too hard and I can keep it simple looking like I want....See MoreHere goes nothing....remodeling/addition plan ready for critique
Comments (27)We've gone over some of the suggestions made here and have spoken with the builder concerning the layout, costs, etc. and have decided to forego the carport for now in lieu of adding the basement garage. While definitely not my ideal, the garage in the basement will cost pennies compared to an upper level carport or garage, which we can add later as we age. We don't have harsh conditions that often so it's likely that I'll be parking in the existing driveway and entering through the living room door most days. There will be a mud area at the bottom of the basement steps for DH and the kids. In coming to terms with how we live versus how I'd like to live, it's certain that on sunny days when boots have little to no dirt, DH and kids will enter through the side door, which is why I'm putting a little area to drop shoes there. All that means is that there will be a half wall to kick boots off behind when coming in to eat lunch, etc. Here is the new plan, which I'm sure still could use some modifications but both DH and I feel good about this plan functioning well for our family. To recap what modifications I made from the original post: *Reduced wasted space in master bath, which gave more room to the master bedroom. *Separated laundry and homeschool office; by reducing "extra" space in the girls' bath and my closet, I was able to niche out enough room for a modest laundry room near the master bedroom, which I think will serve us better as we age. The layout in the laundry is somewhat fluid right now as I'd like to get a closet in there for storing the vacuum cleaner, etc. * Added a coat closet by the front door to provide storage as well as give the foyer more definition. *Reduce the living room size to save on square footage. *Moving the laundry caused us to lose the closed locker storage but we may add it near the living room side door if we feel like space allows. *The blue overlay shows the area of the original house that will not receive any structural modifications except the window in the girls' bedroom will become a door into the new ensuite. Things we didn't change/realize break some "rules": *We didn't add a guest 1/2 bath. We RARELY ever have guests so we don't feel it's necessary to have a 4 1/2 bath house. *We didn't add a dumbwaiter right now. DH feels that the space in the pantry where the extra freezer is could easily be turned into a dumbwaiter spot since we have access to the basement area directly below it. Plus we can always unload groceries through the front door very easily if we have to. *We didn't reduce the size of the garage or the "wing addition." In talking with each other and the GC, it wasn't worth it financially or space wise to lose any square footage in that area. *Changing the location of the kitchen and its openess/visibility to the foyer is likely not to change. Our needs, our community, our family/friends, and style of living don't necessitate that we "hide" the kitchen from the front door. I've lived in homes and communities that did so I do understand why the "rule" exists. However, in our simpler, casual, rural "boonies" area, it's a non-issue :) ************************ I'm going to post the kitchen and pantry layout in that forum for more specific advice on that....See MorePros & cons of keeping a low basement ceiling exposed/unfinished
Comments (40)The basement ceiling height of the house we lived in when our kids were teenagers wasn't much higher than yours. My husband sprayed the underside of the main level floor matte black, covering all pipes and ducts. If you DIY, be sure to use a good respirator mask. Our son was the same height as your husband (now slightly taller) and my husband was just a tad shorter. Neither one was bothered by feeling as if they were about to bump their heads. We had no issues with dust. As for noise in the basement, I think it was only noticeable when someone overhead wore high heels. I didn't find that the sound of video games or movies in the basement carried upstairs any more than in a later house with a drywall ceiling. My family liked the look and I was happy to put the money that would have been spent on a finished ceiling toward other things in the house....See More8ft X 9ft Tiny Kitchen Layout Help!
Comments (44)Sorry I have been super busy the last few days, so I am just getting back to this thread. Like I said, I did like your original plan. I was just a bit concerned it might be annoying to have people always crossing through your work zone to get to the fridge. By flipping your plan, I then had to move the DW so it wasn’t across the isle from the range. It did break a kitchen rule of thumb putting it under the main prep counter. Sometimes in smaller kitchens you make more compromises. I figured in that case if a helper wanted to unload/load the dw at the same time as someone was prepping/cooking, you still had the left side of the sink and/or next to the range. I am right with you on moving the fridge to the other side. In fact, that was the first thing I noticed in you current kitchen was the big fridge blocking light and breaking up that wall. I totally understand your point of a full depth pantry and fridge on the end where I put them will make the entry not as open. I hoped a counter depth would be ok, but now I know that is not an option for you. Plus even with CD, it does still have the blocking effect. So out of your latest plans, I still like the pantry on the end over the small counter with an upper. I looked up your kitchenaid side by side fridge specs, and if I am looking at the correct model, the fridge side door needs 14 5/8” to fully open. Do you need it to be fully open to remove the crisper bins or shelves? Your kitchen designer should figure all this out for you. I think you need a 3” spacer between the wall and the 12” pantry for it’s door to fully open anyways, so that gives you the 15” for the fridge. I love your idea of the upper cabinets with the little shelf underneath. I wanted to do that same look in my kitchen. You could maybe do a rain glass or other obscured glass doors on the uppers to the right of the window so it keeps the most light, airy, open feel. You could do clear, but it is kind of nice not to have to worry as much about having things perfectly organized inside. I wish I had a better idea for more space for the dining table. I believe you said the mudroom is out that side door. Does it go behind the wall where you have the table? Could you bump back into that wall about 15” to add a space for built in bench with head room? Sort of like a window seat or where it is cantilevered so you would still be able to have storage underneath the seat part on the mudroom side? I am sorry if I am not explaining that right. My husband of almost 30 years is a GC and you would think I would know a little about building by now! 🤪...See MorePatricia Colwell Consulting
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