OK Ken - back down :-) I was composing my response while the OP responded so missed the part about fertilizing to offset shearing. Agree that is not a valid reason for fertilizing but to completely dismiss the need for fertilizing, especially if the garden (therefore the plant, any mulching and the soil) has been neglected for an extended period of time is not valid either. Soils often need to be refreshed with nutrients, either via a good organic mulch or with fertilization - necessary nutrients are not present endlessly in unlimited quantities. They become depleted overtime, especially with a mature but untended garden. And "renovation pruning" is not a panacea for all shrubs. Generally that method is used in reference to deciduous flowering shrubs - broadleaved evergreens seldom respond well uniformly to that method and hedge plants in particular are typically approached differently with regards to pruning. Not trying to be contrary, merely accurate :-))

I'm in Zone 6 (Kansas), and I bury the graft "knob" 1-2 inches. THe problem here is that our Zone 6 winters (and very early springs) often undergo wide changes in temps. New growth starts, then a hard freeze comes along--the new growth is killed or damaged. Sometimes, as a result, we have to prune back nearly to the soil line. As long as that graft "knob" is buried, it is protected--new growth can begin again when the temps warm up. If the graft is damaged, the "wild" portion (the roots from a different rose) can then take over. If you can't replant some of the roses, you could always provide extra protection around the graft for winter--pile soil up about 6 inches or so. As for mulching, excellent idea. However, it wouldn't hurt to keep it pulled back a couple inches from the base--a little "breathing" room, as it were. Kate

Hi misslisamham: Since you are in zone 10, CA, without much rain ... I WOULD NOT MOVE it. Even in my heavy rain Chicagoland, moving an established rose is very stressful ... my Knockouts became bare, zero leaves for many months after moving. When the roots are deep, like Austin Mary Rose, it's still alive even with 1 month of no-watering, but it won't bloom. The best way is to pile fertile, organic stuff on top: leaves are OK, but the nutrients are low. My best result is to pile alfalfa hay on top. It's sold for $8 for a HUGE bundle at the feed store. Why? Alfalfa hay has NPK of 2.5-1-2, plus very good moisture retention, and ZERO SALT. Alfalfa hay works as a mulch to retain moisture, plus much more: 1) As it breaks down, it releases nitrogen for leaf growth, and potassium for root-growth 2) As it breaks down, it neutralizes alkaline tap water (CA tap water is alkaline, I have 3 sisters both in northern & southern CA). If you want it to bloom then heavy prune it, mulch with alfalfa hay. Make a well around the root to retain water, then water it DEEPLY once at week (5 gallons). I would put in 1 used lemon rind for vitamin C, 1/2 used lemon is enough to bring 2 gallon alkaline tap water (over 7.5) to that of rain water (pH 5.6). Vitamin C is known to stimulate plant growth. I won't use fertilizer with salt, if not enough rain. Alfalfa hay (zero salt) plus water will supply the nutrients needed for blooming. I have very deep root Radio Times rose right next to a tree. I never water it, but it's still alive and bloom twice a year when we got rain. If you don't want to commit to regular watering & blooming, then I would prune it very lightly. Prune only if there is enough water to regenerate new growth (it takes lots of water just to grow a few inches). Austin roses can take shade well, if there's enough water. It's very gloomy in my zone 5a, late fall. We get just a few hours of sunshine, and Austin roses still bloom, if given plenty of rain water.

Sylvia while I can't help you identify your rose other than a wild guess of Mr. Lincoln. I would suggest contacting your local American Rose Society they have consulting rosarians that would be happy to come out and look at your rose. They could also suggest how best to prune and fertilize it. the other alternative is you wanna take a, wack at it yourself, is to cut out the three D's ,as Baldo likes to say, remove; dead, diseased and damaged canes. Damaged canes are often damaged because they are rubbing against another cane so removing one will help open up the plant, and in doing so will likely improve and invigorate the rose. Those are the basics but practically every rose book out there will further explain how to properly prune a rose bush there are also a number of helpful you tube videos specifically on pruning.