Kim Rupert's polyantha rose, LAUREN
Jasminerose, California, USDA 9b/Sunset 18
6 years ago
last modified: 6 years ago
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Jasminerose, California, USDA 9b/Sunset 18
6 years agolast modified: 6 years agoRelated Discussions
suggestions for a very small polyantha?
Comments (30)Hi Stawberryhill, Rise'n Shine isn't terribly fragrant to MY nose. How it will be to yours, I'm sorry, but I don't know. Mr. Moore chose not to breed with Rise'n Shine because it produces pastel to white offspring. Instead, he held back its sister, 1-72-1, which is a short climber and it provides decent yellow colors and brighter, richer colored seedlings than Rise'n Shine. I has some fragrance to my nose, but I can't describe what it's like, other than 'sweet'. Too Cutechild was quite fragrant as a very young seedling. As it's matured, the petal substance has improved along with flower size and petal count, but the scent has diminished to a mild licorice. It has great flowers and is healthy so far, but isn't proving to be all that vigorous yet. Perhaps once I can get it out of its five gallon can and into the ground, it may improve with age. That requires getting rid of thirty-five to forty of the roses I grow to make room for promising seedlings and will take some time. Even then, I can't promise you this seedling will be released. If it isn't strong enough, it shouldn't be in other gardens. We have enough of THOSE already. There is a very logical explanation for why Sunshine smells so differently from person to person. First, individual sniffers. Some can smell some scents where others can't and vice versa. Plus, Robert lives in the low desert around Palm Springs. I live just over the hill top from the LA Basin. When it's 99 degrees here, it's often up to 15, even 20 degrees hotter where Robert lives. Probably the only other well known location whose name you might recognize here in Southern California that's hotter than where Robert lives is Death Valley. There are also variations in humidity between us, too. Temperature, humidity and wind (he's MUCH windier than were I am) all work against there being any detectable fragrance in flowers, or even in the perfume you may put on. Hot, dry and windy and all the scent evaporates VERY quickly. Kim...See MoreLet's talk Polyanthas
Comments (66)I have grown White Pet, Lullaby, and Anna-Marie de Montreval for over ten years. White pet was cited in a study at Montreal gardens for its resistance to blackspot. In Southern California blackspot is fairly rare, so I cannot comment per se on its disease resistance to that particular blight. It is unlike other polys because it has no multiflora in its genetic makeup, as it is a sport of 'Felicite et Perpetua,' a Hybrid Sempervirens. It shows up a lot on socal show tables with large sprays of double white flowers unfolding from pink to red buds. Anna-Marie de Montreval has the same parentage as Mlle Cecile Brunner, but presents relatively smallish sprays of blooms that resembles pearls on a string. Both WP & AMM do not rise to any great height; they operate at the foot to a foot and a half in height and slightly wider in girth. AMM also have a unique lily of the valley scent; John Bagnasco has been experimenting with crosses to obtain the scent in another plant. So far, some of the offspring have had scent, but not without mildew or some other curse. AMM is part of the tea-poly group of polyanthas, but is not as disease resistant as some others. Its small size restricts its abilities to win at show tables; I can only recall once in the last ten years that AMM won a trophy. For breeding purposes, WP is not utile; and AMM carries some baggage. Lullaby presents medium sized sprays, relatively tightly knit, of double blooms occasionally with a green button eye. It grows to twice the height of the other two plants, shows up frequently at the show table and the trophy table. It is a cross of Mlle Cecile Brunner without the spacey candalabra effect. Iirc, there is some souliana in its background. Again the disease resistance is high and the plant is very adaptable to good soil, bad soil, and responds beautifully to pampering and cosseting. From my vantage point all three roses are winners. Neither Lullaby nor AMM present pink in the bud or bloom, and are eminently suitable to a white garden effect.......See MoreLauren
Comments (15)You're welcome! I understand too many irons in the fire, but this one isn't going to take a whole lot of time to accomplish. While out tending the roses, you determine what seems to have suitable canes to root for stocks. Harvest them when it's time for you to root them using whatever method you prefer. If you'd like to try wrapping them to pre callus them before planting, all of that is also detailed in multiple posts on my blog. Remove all the buds from each of the cuttings EXCEPT the two, top buds. There has to be somewhere for the sap the cutting generates to expand into so it grows. Root them, pot them into individual pots of your choice of size and soil. When they are growing vigorously, determined by active, vigorous new growth from the remaining top buds, bud whatever you want to reproduce on to them. Keep them properly watered for the next several weeks. Ideally, if the buds are still green two weeks after budding, they've taken! Any time after that, cut off the top two buds of the original stock variety and seal the cuts with your choice of pruning sealer. I prefer a plain old candle. If you can seal them before the direct sun shines on them, causing the sap to "turn on" and begin flowing heavily, it's easier. I tried the Elmer's Glue and the sap was flowing too heavily. It dissolved the glue and continued bleeding. But, if you can do it when the sun isn't hitting the actual cutting, the sap isn't flowing as heavily and the candle wax will seal the would, stopping the bleeding almost immediately. It is that plug, stopping the sap flow that is going to push new growth from your newly inserted buds. If you want to (or have to) wait longer than two or three weeks to remove the top growth and force the new buds, that's fine. I've budded in fall and not removed the top growth until the following spring and they worked just fine. You really only have to pay attention to them at each step, but keep them properly watered between each step so they continue pushing growth. Budding only works when the sap is flowing freely, so it supports the inserted buds until their cambium knits to that of the stocks. That could be the toughest part when you don't live where they grow, but if you can take the budded pots home with you, just pay enough attention to them while they knit and keep them watered. They will do the rest! I'll check out your site, thank you!...See MorePolyanthas, anyone?
Comments (51)Sorry I'm a little late to the conversation. I can grow poly's. They do well, for the most part and are healthy and bloom a lot in my no-spray garden. Mine are own-root and most have few thorns. In this day and age of "Smaller Is Better", I don't know why they aren't more popular. These came from Vintage: Tip-Top- Pretty little rose that starts out pale creamy lemon with a deep pink edge (think Mrs. Dudley Cross) that slowly broadens as the bloom ages, till it is mostly pink. The buds have an almost hybrid tea look but the petals quill and twist as it ages till it looks like a pink dandelion. Mine have never been orange in any way. Broader than tall. Nice fragrance. Foliage is different; matte with a gray undertone. Charles Walker's Mignonette- Tough little white rose of many little petals. In cool weather they are tinted pink. Remind me of tiny chrysanthemums. They have a nice fragrance. The bush has stayed short, 18" +/-,. but is wider than tall for me. Super healthy, able to rebound from bad weather, injuries and the like, resistant to blackspot for me in the South East. Think about giving it a try. Anna Marie de Montravel- Blooms in bunches of little cup-shaped white flowers with a terrific fragrance. They really do smell like lilies-of-the-valley in spring on a humid day. It blooms its heart out during the spring flush and then off and on again the rest of the summer. They will pink up a bit in cool weather, but not as much as some of the others. These are from other mail order companies: Lullaby- New last summer, a fragrant white descendant of Cecile Brunner. It is one of my most fragrant polys, rivaling Clothilde Soupert in flower size and fragrance. In cool weather mine has a lavender pink tint. It went through a cold winter and looks good this spring with no die-back. Marie Pavie- Can't say more than has been said. Clothilde Soupert- Reminds me of an old-fashioned rose that has been shrunk. My most fragrant poly. Has a lovely blush center. Many people have this one. Lady Ann Kidwell- New last year, a Cecile Brunner descendant that seems to have her size, if not color. I may have lost her over the winter, but hopefully she has only died back to the mulch line. It may be a more cold tender poly but I hope it will be more hardy over time. Dubious Poly's Baby Alberic- A wonderful little white rose with a lovely form that has handled the cold winter without missing a beat. Mine is always white. It blooms individually, not in bunches. It is a small bush but doesn't look or grow like a poly at all. Polly Sunshine- A Ralph Moore creation that seems much more like a mini than a poly. It's pretty with soft sunshine yellow blooms that fade to cream. My least healthy poly, it struggles with blackspot and I've thought about removing it. Came through the winter OK, though. Honorary Poly's Sweet Chariot- A Ralph Moore creation that should have been a poly. It looks, blooms and grows like one with the poly toughness and good health. There are even poly's in its pedigree. The spring flush covers the bush with lavender blooms in bunches that nearly obscure it. A wonderful fragrance that wafts. In Memorium Mevrouw Nathalie Nypels- Sweet little pink rose, tough and long-suffering that didn't survive the 2nd time it was run over by the city utility truck. Sweet Pea- Lost during the polar vortex Sunshine- Lost twice. Seems too fragile for my garden....See MoreJasminerose, California, USDA 9b/Sunset 18
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