Any solutions to this? I am having this problem too - the tiles just above the fireplace center are falling off (have repaired once to have it happen again). I suspect the high heat rising up and out the top of the fireplace is causing the wall to expand and contract slightly so that it weakens the mortar and the tiles fall off. Is that possible? Is there a special high heat mortar/mastic? The fireplace manufacturer said: The area above the fireplace will get warm, warm enough that you may not want to touch. It is still safe as the area can reach temps of 325 degrees and still be safe. On the tile coming off, [fireplace co] has not had issues like this before. Please make sure that the area of “non combustible” around the fireplace was properly faced over with a non combustible facing and your tile person is using a mastic that will work in high heat areas.

Looks like your trees might be suffering from some bark disease. You need to remove the landscape rock from near the trunk out a couple feet, it could be trapping unneeded moisture too close to the trunk and be causing that bark splitting. Can you take a close up of the trunk on both trees and post the photos? The one leafless branch on the upper photo looks like it's had twig die back, trim it back to where the branch looks green which could be at the node where it grew from. What is your grow zone? How often do you water and fertilize? Evan

Bspoke is correct. In addition look at the backside of the fallen tile. Most likely it is clean. Showing little sign if any of adhesive transfer. Do point out the required 95% coverage in wet areas. I personally would use my fist and bang the walls hard and every where while the installer is there. That tile falling is not a god sign. I often see this when folks use cement board and don't sponge it first. (give it a drink) as required. The board will suck the moisture from the setting mortars resulting in your scenario. Use a screwdriver and tap around. You will hear the difference when tile is hollow (not bonded). Which brings us to the question of waterproofing. In progress photos are the only way to help you with that topic. Not sure why soaking tile was suggested above as we have no idea what the tile is being installed. I very highly doubt the body is that soft / porous to require soaking.

Were these cabinets painted onsite? Or this is a manufacturer painted cabinet? If this is a manufacturer painted cabinet and molding came from the manufacturer with matching paint you don't fill and sand the filler off and paint afterward. First of all, you have to use a No-Mar Tip attachment on the nail gun to prevent surface damage when you nail any cabinet trim and you have to use the right gauge brads to fasten the molding to leave tiny nail holes which barely seen. If the filler is used, the manufacturer provides a touch-up kit with color matching marker, filler, etc, and there are ways of using them that you will never know there was a nail hole a chip, etc. the touchup is seamless. This molding is shot, you need a new molding, by the time you take it off, re-cut/adjust miters, clean it up, etc being installed at eye level you will see everything and it will not be a pretty picture. Frankly speaking, someone screwed up, new molding needs to be ordered and re-installed and hopefully by someone else who knows what they doing. Good luck