HELP! New trim keeps falling off!
I just had my cabinets installed in September, and since then multiple pieces of the lower trim have fallen off with very minimal pressure. Opening the cabinet I am bound to touch it with that part of my arm, and they’re wobbling. The cabinet company came back and glued some on and retacked them, but at this point, I want them all removed and fastened another way. This is only 2 months later! I am hoping someone has some options that I can give to them, because I am literally about to lose my mind. The molding doesn‘t fasten underneath there is nothing giving it support, so any minimal downward pressure they fall off onto the counter. I’m a small person, and I am babying these cabinets, so my forearm touching them while opening the door, should not dislodge the trim!!!!! They’re all separate pieces, and the pieces still attached are also loose. They will probably fall off if I sneeze. They’ve been tacked on and brush touched so many times and I cannot keep doing this with them. I was in tears, so I am hoping someone has some advice for me. I seriously regret paying what I did for custom cabinets. The install has been a nightmare. I have to pay someone to fix the damage to the new ceiling and walls, and they nailed right thru the side of the one cabinet that I didn’t even mention because I didn’t want to seem like a nag. But I have had enough, and I am about to lose my sh*t!
Please see attached pics - the top
is from today, the bottom ones are from the last time it happened.
Thanks in advance for any tips/advice/options you can offer!
Comments (23)
Donald
3 years agoRelated Discussions
jalepeno flowers keep falling off
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L M
3 years ago
Nikki D
3 years agoI modeled them after this kitchen (pics below) I saw from a company called the brothers stonington, but as you can see their trim seems to have some build up under the cabinet, which suggests to me that the trim they use has almost like a notch out of it and forms an “L” shape. Again, this is the model kitchen, not my own.
L M
3 years agoLarhonda Lowery
3 years agoNikki D
3 years agoJoe- would they be able to construct that in their shop then attach it so the mitres look nice? The reason I ask is because the mitres look like junk even after they “fixed” them, so I kind of just gave up. The wet bar cabs are not inset, and they had to do that with the light rail because the mitres were horrible.
The first three pics are the main kitchen mitres and trim and the second is the wet bar area they did in house.
Thanks everyone for their help!
ksc36
3 years agoNikki D
3 years ago
PROGN Builders L.L.C
3 years agoksc36
3 years agoNikki D
3 years ago
jk113
3 years ago
PROBeth H. :
3 years agoNikki D
3 years ago- PRO
GN Builders L.L.C
3 years ago Nikki D
3 years agochicagoans
3 years ago
PROHALLETT & Co.
3 years agoThis is embarrassing for the custom shop that made and installed these. Your inspiration photo clearly shows a light rail Moulding that is 3” or so wide , not cove pinned on from the front.
Nikki D
3 years ago- PRO
GN Builders L.L.C
3 years agolast modified: 3 years ago@HALLETT & Co. Couldn't agree with you more, just by cutting that corner and not ordering the right light rail molding the job looks hacked up.
You cannot glue that molding because it will always be hit and if sustain any damage which is inevitable in this situation, the entire piece will have to be replaced and good luck with that when molding is glued and OP said it, she hits it all the time.
This why light rails always come with a nail backer like in the picture so it can be fastened to the bottom of the cabinet instead of nailing to the face frame.
The least they could have done since they didn't get the light rail and this is being done in the shop is attach a nail strip to the molding and nail to the bottom of the cabinet frame, this way it's not only easier and faster to install there will be no nail holes in the molding, no filler needed and it would look beautiful something like this
Nikki D
3 years ago
Joseph Corlett, LLC