We put in the Metroflor solid vinyl tiles in 2003 which are very similar to what you're considering. Ours are glued down over the old sheet vinyl floor, as noise muffling was one of our primary considerations, along with ease of care and the ability to coordinate with the original oak floors in the rest of the house. We've been extremely pleased with the flooring. It is comfortable underfoot, quiet, and a breeze to take care of. One issue with the heavily patterned vinyls is that the texture tends to catch dirt, so a dark and/or complex pattern will be less likely to drive you crazy about cleaning, LOL. I can't say how it would look against porcelain tile, but here's a photo of it against the old oak flooring. The color is not correct in this photo, it is more a dark sage green slate-look: A long shot showing a better color rendition: It looks much richer if polished, BUT polishing (waxing, actually) has its disadvantages. If you don't periodically strip off the layers of wax they will yellow and dull the pattern/color of the flooring. I wasn't willing to put in that kind of maintenance, but when we eventually sell the house I will put the polish on, because the vinyl gets that 'wet' look that makes it look more like real stone, a richer, darker look. In certain hours of the day you can definitely tell it is vinyl; most of the time you can't. We were willing to put up with this 'not quite perfect imitation', and many people have complimented us on the flooring and agree with us that it's quite beautiful. DH and I agree we would definitely use this type of flooring again. THey have made great strides in the vinyl tiles in recent years and the stone and wood patterns are much better than before. Even the sheet vinyl is much better than before. We just had this put in a few months ago, when we couldn't get the vinyl tiles on short-notice: HTH!

Exactly. Oddly there are a number of websites that show people laying luxury vinyl plank flooring on top of tile floors. The pattern of the grouted gaps between tiles will form a pattern in the vinyl flooring! Either rip up all the old tile, fully sand/clean the floor so it is ‘smooth‘, and ‘then’ lay your vinyl plank, or keep your existing tile floor. Otherwise you will be ripping up your vinyl plank in a year when it has a tile pattern showing up in it.....

OK...if you REALLY want to go over this, you are about to spend more money that it would cost to remove the tile: #1: Flooring professional will THOROUGHLY clean the tile (with big machine and strong detergents); and allow to dry (1 day or more if you include the dry time) #2: Flooring professional will rough up the tile (big sanding machine - tapping off all cupboards, air vents, walls, etc) - clean up (shop vac) will take another or two #3: Cement topping (like feather compound) will be added to the floor to ensure you achieve "flat and level" (grout lines are NOT flat; tiles/stone are NEVER flat nor level); should take a few days including cure times #4: Light sanding to knock down any pumps; vacuum once again #5: Begin installing vinyl planks #6: Homeowner will add appropriate light-blocking products on windows that allow direct sunlight onto the floor (you are welcome to put down an indoor/outdoor thermometer in the sunny patch to record TOP temps in summer. Most vinyls HATE heat above 85F. That is tough combat with windows that are older than 10 years. The Korean-designed vinyl products can reach much higher temps (EZ Lay or Drop N Done) and are specifically designed for in-floor radiant heat. Of course their price tag reflects their ability...but it's what is needed in this situation. Which type of in-floor radiant heat do you have? Electric (wires), hydronic (water/gel/oil) of forced air? Do you have a primary heat source or is the radiant heat the ONLY source of heat in your home?

Beagles, engineered wood would also fade and I am prepared for that to happen. My current solid site finished hardwood has faded where it isn't covered by rugs/furniture. The only thing that will not fade is a good porcelain tile. I also like to have the windows uncovered most of the time, but will install roller blinds or cellular shades (that mostly disappear when open) for some sun control. Maybe I'll look into getting them motorized and on a timer, so I don't have to do it manually all around the house.