Glad you got your answers. I did not expect you to know about how to construct a shower, but your complaint about the slope sounded like that seemed wrong to you. If you were complaining about shower slope, looking up the slope seemed the first step. Now that I have read Blubird's and your further comments, I see that your pictures are not showing the curb from inside the shower, but from outside. From this angle, now that I know to look for it, I see that there is a row of lighter colored,long narrow pieces of tile that may be quarter round or may just be flat pieces, and then the shower floor. Is this section at an angle, or flat with the top of the shower floor? If it is flat on the floor, then it is, indeed, as high as the curb, I am hoping that it is at an angle to give you a little bit of curb and some peace of mind. I was not noticing the size of the tile under the rosin paper. It would have been a give away that this was the room floor. Now that you have explained it more, I understand. Did the shower hold the water to your satisfaction? I imagine you are on a concrete slab and it was built this way for ease of construction. I have no idea if this is proper or not. Curbless showers are done everyday now, and though they make some people nervous, others do like them. I am doing one, though mine will have a linear drain across the front so water should not escape. As far as I know, once a post is up for a while, you can't erase it. About all you can do is put a comment in the comment section saying it was answered elsewhere.

I just called them (Daltile) and got blown off. When I asked whether they were making it this way on PURPOSE, he claimed that they were - but then could not or would not provide me a link to the actual product showing the true specs. When I asked to speak to a supervisor, he claimed the guy was at lunch. It's 1:30 in the afternoon in Texas. If his boss actually IS at lunch at 1:30 in the afternoon, that could be the source of the problem right there. Seriously though. I spoke to someone in the "home depot/lowes" contact department first and THEY thought it was weird and had never heard of such a thing. It was the TECH guy who blew me off. Note that he COULD NOT explain to me the purpose of having an unglazed line on a piece of 2x6 wall tile presented and marketed as finish trim. I'm not talking about floor tile, this is their lowest rated wall tile (PEI 0). He kept yammering on about mortar. WHO MORTARS THE CURVED EDGE OF BULLNOSE ON A WALL? This isn't supposed to butt up against ANYTHING, or if it is, Home Depot needs to change the way they are marketing it. Though frankly I cannot imagine any scenario in which you would butt a curved bullnose on a wall up to more tile. And if you're butting it up against say cabinets (even though this stuff is NOT rated for kitchen use) then who would use anything but more regular tile? I'll pick up a piece of this tomorrow and take it to a real tile store and see what they think. I'll post back with the actual SKUs and hopefully store links tomorrow, and what the real tile guys say about it. There may be some use for this, but so far no one here knows what it might be and the daltile guy was just flat out uncooperative. If they are manufacturing this on purpose then they should be able to provide me with a link to the specs for it and its intended use. Telling me they make FLOOR TILE with an incompletely finished edge to butt up against more floor tile doesn't help when I've repeatedly said this is 2x6 wall tile being marketed by Home Despot (and Lowes) as finish trim. As for how many have been examined - I went through EVERY SINGLE PIECE on the shelves at every Home Despot (there are 4) and Lowes (only one) in my city. They're all this way, and some are actually worse than others in that on some that unglazed portion on the curve is not only unglazed, but also bumpy and rough, uneven. So HUNDREDS of pieces have been examined. If there's a use for this stuff, I'm pretty sure your average Home Despot shopper isn't going to know what it is OR want it for that use, and not a single Home Despot employee could explain it to me, they just insist its normal and shrug. AND they are telling people to buy this PEI 0 rated tile for backsplashes and counters, LOL!

The gap at the edge is not the real problem. That’s worrying about the color of the band aid over a nicked artery. That is not a job from a professional qualified tile contractor. One issue in getting recommendations from homeowners is that most homeowners don’t actually know enough to be able to judge if the job was done correctly. All they know is the guy mostly showed up on time and it isn’t too obviously a fail. They do not understand that what lies beneath their pretty and expensive tile is far more expensive, and far more important, than what it ends up looking like in it’s superficial appearance. Not meaning to insult you, but that’s true here. You are noticing the superficial low quality installation aesthetic appearance, but do not have any specifics about any of the processes or materials underneath the spot bonded tile on the out of plane walls, with no visible waterproofing on the still visible wall underneath. You’re still worried about the superficial appearance, and that’s not the real issue here. If that visible gap didn’t exit, you’d never think about the other deficiencies that are pretty apparent to an experienced eye because of that gap. (You’re actually very lucky the gap is there!) And you might go on to recommend this hack to other homeowners. Only to retract that recommendation in a couple of years time when the mold shows up. After he’s done his damage to other projects, and put you in his rear view mirror. Homeowner recommendations for skilled labor projects should always be taken with a huge dose of skepticism. Professional recommendations, only slightly more weight. An electrician doesn’t understand tile. The weight to give are industry certifying bodies, and membership in trade specific groups. Industry education for tile is trying to catch up and police itself of the unqualified. Its not the $2 a square foot Depot lot guys that are to be worried about. People know they’re getting nothing quality for that. It’s the 2K tub wall guys that are the problem. They present as knowledgeable, but aren’t. They do far more damage than the day labor guys, because people have higher expectations, but don’t have the personal knowledge to verify that the contractor can fulfill those expectations. A homeowner shouldn’t have to learn all about the technical details. But in the Wild Wild West of guys with trowels for hire, that learned knowledge is the bottom line defense of their castles against Trojan Horse contractor’s who surface appear to be qualified, but aren’t. To mix a half dozen metaphors. That work is an obvious fail. It needs to be completely redone, from the framing out, with someone who understands and follows industry standards. While cost is no guarantee of quality work, it is an overall indication of the time and quality of materials being used on the job, which does correlate to the quality of the work. I‘m not talking the actual tile. That’s completely irrelevant to what goes on under the tile. The required materials and time that it takes to do a shower properly has the industry prevailing costs be in the 7-9K range. A tub surround, 4-7K. When interviewing for your new contractor, after taking the proper steps to fire this one, please use the questions from the CTEF website about how to find a quality tile installer. Then use your now educated sad experience to educate others.

"So you think it would look and feel less cramped with curb on the right side too? (been wondering if its just me and if it would really look better." Personally, I'm not certain how it would look. If it was open to the right of the shower, I could see curb to ceiling glass working. But with a vanity on that right side, some folks object visually to a wall of glass next to the solid side of the vanity. The visual from inside the shower can look awkward as well unless you're a nifty cleaner. "I dont like how they tiled the curb and top of pony walls either. Seems to me they could have use a long side of tile and have no grout lines ... If your tiles are long enough to completely cover the top of the pony walls with no grout lines, that would have been a nice move. I can't tell from the photo, but I'm not certain that they are. Because of that, if they did run them the long way, you'd have an orphaned grout line somewhere on the top of the pony, not lining up with anything else. I think what they did was proper, carrying the grout line from the two sidewalls across the top of the pony. What Nancy wrote in her previous comment is most common, carrying a material from another horizontal surface in the bathroom over to the pony walls and curb. It depends on where the glass will be set, but the tops of the ponies may see water. It's common in that case to pitch them (as well as the curb) slightly into the shower for drainage. The curb, they could have run the tiles the long way...but they lined up the tile layout and the grout lines on the curb with the tile and grout lines on the back wall. I have to say, I think they did a nice job marrying up the layout so it all looks ordered and cohesive. "We want them thiner too. " Was there ever an intent to use the top of the pony as a storage shelf? Shampoo, soap, razor, etc? You can have the ponies made thinner, but that's a whole new can of wax, a serious discussion to be had with your GC. Good luck with it, I hope you find satisfaction in the end.