Lovely home, lovely veiws! I'm sure I don't need to tell you to enjoy it. I feel you are overthinking this: Wood isn't super consistent, every board has variations within it, and differs slightly from other boards cut from the same tree. Think of them in terms of ranges of color [mostly browns, obviously] and let these natural variation tie the colors together. Trying to make it all match perfectly [especially with different species in play] will just make you crazy. Better to deliberately choose different finishes and make a virtue of necessity. Remember, anything site finished can be tweaked till it's just right. You do want to spend some time playing with stains and finishes, of course, and just to make your life a bit more complex, remember that you can blend colors from within the same product family to get the shades you're after-- I did dozens of test batches till I got what I wanted, using 4 different colors plus clear [to lighten things up]. My philosophy is that if everything is super consistent, it looks too new. Since I wanted my house to have a 'turn of the last century' feel, I built up a pallet of complimentary browns and tans that forms a great backdrop for a few strong accent shades for punch and personality-- it looks great with red, my ultramarine blue range, hunter green morris chair, and amber mica lighting. I've done a wide range of woods in my sort of finished house. Areas with high ceilings got v-groove pine with a whitwash finish to countact pine's natural tendency to yellow over time. This backs a rather woody area [though the walls are painted] from being too warm-- I think mixing warm and cool shades brings out the best in both. Trim and window casings [pine and fir, respectively] got a custom mixed color similar to a chocolate cake [redder than cocoa] while [pine] doors are a lighter shade, similar to peanut britle. I did a bead board and beam ceiling in the kitchen and dining rooms. The beams match the trim, the bead board matches the doors. My scheme bucks conventional wisdom in that the high ceilings are quite pale, while the lower ones are darker than the wall color. But it works well: the kitchen and dining seem much more intimate than they would if they were pale, and the high areas seem to just float above you in an open, airy way. Floors on the main level are Berry floor laminate [couldn't afford the hickory I wanted] in a shade called Oxford Oak, not far off of what you'd get if you mixed the trim and door color. Upstairs, I used a cork with strong red tones that also works well. By choosing different wood shades that work well together, my other woods [cabinets, antiques etc.] all fit right in.

What are you trying to accomplish? Minwax has a broad variety of high quality products. I've used them for decades on many kinds of projects, and I find it hard to believe that they don't have something suitable for whatever home application you have in mind. If you can't find what you want on their web site, give them a call: 800-523-9299.

Glaze has no place to hang up on a slab door. Most manufacturers won’t do slab or shaker doors with glazing for that reason. Glaze is supposed to hang up in the details, and you need a door with some of those details to make it show. A floating vanity that’s mounted at only 6” off the floor is doable, but it’s more difficult to clean under than one mounted the more traditional 15” off the floor. The traditional height of floating vanities is 18”H and 21” H. Have you lived with a vessel sink before? They are gorgeous! But they have more water on the counter and more water running off of the counter than an undermount sink. They’re more work to clean and maintain than an undermount. I just want to make sure you have considered all of that extra work before the decision finalization. :-)

Are you in an area where snow might be tracked in? If so, consider luxury vinyl plank flooring stead of laminate. Laminate will warp and buckle if drips aren’t wiped up quickly.