Dianalo - Both door styles are available with an arch or square. My husband and I both prefer square. I've looked at sample doors at both Home Depot (American Woodmark) and Lowe's (Shenandoah). I don't remember thinking that the veneer looked obvious. However, on one of the really dark (Maple Espresso) solid wood doors, I saw a white line around the center panel from the contraction of the wood. That would definitely be a concern if we were to choose Wyoming/solid doors, especially with a dark stain like Cherry Bordeaux. I should also note that Wyoming has solid wood dovetail drawers. We would upgrade the Cumberland drawers to dovetail if we end up choosing that style. Dilly_ny - Interestingly enough, the builder said that these 2 door styles would cost the same in either maple or cherry. That's one of the reasons we're going with cherry. Any other thoughts?

Hello. Yes with all the different woods none will be exact in colour by any means. But the darker the colour the closer it will be as there is more room to vary and get away with it. I guess it all depends on what colour of stain you consider to be dark in colour. I would do samples with each different type of wood you have with the selected stain. Then at least you know what it looks like. What maybe be of concern (or at least in my findings and strictly my opinion here) is that with all the varying wood types and colours they have can to me bring too many colours into play which i sometimes find they fight with each other instead of blending and flowing in a space. But rather, all the different colours can make a space have no flow, sequence, or symmetry. Size and space of coarse play a part in all this and the extend of the varying colours as well as several other factors but I am sure you get the just of it. Another option you can do is match the lighter looking stains appearance on the select wood to the darkest looking one. Yes it will require purchasing several small quantity containers of maybe 2-4 different colours (these could be stains, dyes, or colourants that are comparable with the stain). Also, you could stain all the trim one colour and then "shade" the lighter coloured pieces. For that you will need an help or a cup gun and compressor. This option would definitely be achievable if you have experience with this sort of application technique. The only downfall to "shading" in my opinion is you loose grain the more you shade but your woods you are using don't really have a lot of grain. They to me have more colour contract in the pieces rather than grain. But the best piece of advice no matter what you decide for colour and application is to do samples until you are pleased with what the wood will look like with the other types. Lastly, there is no real right or wrong. People's personal dwellings and buildings are supposed to be their own, have their own taste, likes, personality to it, and to make them feel comfortable, warm, at ease, and relaxed. And whatever colours, designs, or touches the owners add, take away, or create in their space is what makes it their own place to call home. Have fun with it. Embrace making it your own. It's all yours to enjoy and best of luck with it all.

I have concrete floors w/radiant heat in the kitchen/dining room, not stained, just a sealer applied. I also have dark acid stained floors in the living room with radiant heat, a passive solar house- in the winter sun light comes in 23'. The acid stain has held up 15 yrs, but now showing some effects of the UV rays, color is definitely lighter where the sun left it's mark. The unstained kitchen has held consistent color (same sun exposure) and just now requires resealing. My wish is we had not acid stained the LR. Best guess is it will hold color another 3+years before an intervention..... & no clue how/what that will entail. My kitchen, however, is good to go, the gray patina improves with age, (& a lot of imperfections ) ,still looks good from kids, dogs, NY winters & a ton of traffic. Paint is not a good choice for longevity. Acid staining is the only way to go (it penetrates the surface) but it is a mess to deal with- prep work to protect walls/trim, wash down (with lots of water), foot booties, safety glasses, gloves, face masks & the result is a 'live with what you got' situation. Good luck.

Kayleigh - yes, refinishing them is going to take a while to do a good job that you're happy with for years. I'm a little concerned about the filled holes for the centered pulls, I've not tried filling holes and gel staining but from reading around wood working sites on the net, some fillers (even if they say they are stainable) do not stain to the same color as the surrounding wood. Do some research and ask when purchasing your products for the project so you can get the best, most blendable look possible. If you only want your cabs a shade or three darker (and the clear finish over the wood is in very good shape), I had good luck using gel stain as a toner of sorts, I applied it like a wax to a console table and tall bookcase, rubbed it on sections and then buffed it off with a clean cloth. Even though it is like a transparent paint, it also has staining properties, it stained the clear coat on my pieces just enough to tone down the orangey in one and darken up a too-light finish on the other. Just something else to add to your considerations.