Rewiring entire home
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6 years ago
last modified: 6 years ago
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aliris19
6 years agolast modified: 6 years agodirtmechanic
6 years agolast modified: 6 years agoRelated Discussions
Adding A/C and HP to 80 year old home! Big difference in quotes!
Comments (2)Can't really improve upon tigerdunes minimun specs above, efficiency performance dehumidification (if sized correctly..)staging electric strips. R-8 should be for all ductwork supplies and returns. All connections should be mastic..not foil or duct tape but paint on mastic and/or mastic tape. load calc to show how much air is needed and how to distribute air.(duct sizing & design) I'd invest in the room by room load calc and see how they plan to size the ducts and lay them out. you don't mention where ahu & heaters will be located. one in crawl space the other in attic? both in conditioned space with ductwork in attic and crawl? one thing to know going in is that sheet metal duct is best under houses. animals love flex duct, while you can usually deal with mice in attics..coons, possums can wreak flex duct. also sheet metal duct ( I call it hard pipe) leaks air at all connections. in addition to screwing duct together all joints and seams should be mastic sealed...before duct is wrapped. duct wrap should be stapled, and taped with duct tape (fsk tape) 80 years ago we built houses for ventilation. tall ceilings, balloon framed walls. to add central air to these homes is to change the dynamic of the house. in my area we usually foam floors with closed cell as it is the most cost effective way to both air seal and insulate the floors. here is a link to LaHouse (LSU Baton Rouge, La) about insulating floors: http://www.lsuagcenter.com/NR/rdonlyres/D33F711D-DC4B-4E4C-9ED6-A97DCE9DB026/79806/pub3187insulatingraisedfloorsHIGHRES.pdf you'll have to cut and paste for it to work.. if ductwork is in attic, another option is to foam the roofline and keep ductwork in a conditoned space. this will minimize problem areas like recessed lights that are not air tight, which allow attic air and insulation particles to enter the house. we use open cell installed in rafter bays and covering the face of the rafters. in my experience with older homes you have to fix the house in terms of air leakage and insulation for the central installs to provide comfort, dehumidification and savings. otherwise you just throw more tons of a/c at a leaky structure. insulating floors and attic would be to your benefit. air sealing the house is a good investment. there are lots of energy raters in Texas. you should talk to a few and get more information before spending so much for a/c. unlike a lot of audits an energy rating unbiased information that provides a blue print for efficiency, recommendations specific to your home and performance & install verification. best of luck....See MoreCan pushbutton light switches be rewired to modern code?
Comments (12)I expect you'll be able to re-use the visible parts, perhaps even including the botton covers. Keeping old materials is always a good thing, but if you need to replace the "guts" of the switches with modern equipment, don't hesitate. There's absolutely no need to have un-safe wiring or switches just for historical accuracy. Unless you also want to have only hand-drawn four-man fire pumpers used to extinguish any fires. Leather fire buckets can also still be purchased at antique stores....... (just kidding!) Hope the appraisal comes in on the right side of the money and you get your house! Molly~...See MoreRemodeling Nightmare is this normal?
Comments (10)Well, I should have added we didn't just squint our eyes and pick a number for what the remodel should cost. We first provided detailed drawings of existing vs expected finished, complete with materials list, drawings of cabinets, the works to my best friend's father and he priced for us (he's a life long contractor who does this sort of work, just not in our area) He would do the work for us, but would have to charge so much for travel as to be prohibitive. I also consulted with the man who did work for me in the city we used to live in. He's retired, but up until his health problems a year ago did this sort of work, in our area, and he agreed with the price best friend's dad gave us. Honestly I'm trying to figure out what might put us on the do not bid list. From talking around it has become apparent there is a LOT of new construction in our area, and of course that's easier/more profitable work than our teeny remodel, so we think that's probably big in this whole thing. We made it clear from the very start, this is what we have, this is what we want, we have cash in hand, we do want to start asap, but understand we must get in line with the varous subs required for the work. The remodel has in fact turned out to be a giant nightmare. The guy will tell us oh the sub will be here on X day to do Y, and on that day....nada. And he's unavailable by phone. From day one, he hides out from us. Something is wrong, and we say to sub UM...this is incorrect. Oh, we were told this is the way to do it. Um, that isn't even code. The only reason we haven't been graced with two red tags is we called up the inspector, who is a friend of ours, before he came by to inspect and inquired yes, is this ok...let me email you pictures. No, ok skip the inspection slated for X time, we will call to reschedule after it's fixed. Now we hear he's telling people we are "high maintenance". Whatever. Also we found out he was red tagged for some of the same stuff on some houses our neighbor has him working on for him. If it is high maintenance to expect the GC to 1)tell the subs to do things correctly, providing drawings where necessary - not one sub had seen our drawings to date 2) check on the subs occassionally as they work 3) call us if a show stopper is hit, not hide out til you want money 4) Know the code! I guess we'll call that our badge of honor. Our biggest issue to date is we asked how to handle a water heater in a pantry and were told no enclosure needed. I thought it was wrong and kick myself for not checking. Now I have a 5'x4' pantry that is basically a closet for the water heater enclosure. Mind you, this would not be so if he built it 2'x2' which my architect ex assures me is industry standard. He laughed and say why in the heck does the guy think the standard pans they sell for water heater enclosures are designed to fit in a 2'x2'? All I can tell you is we will NEVER hire anything else done for us. NEVER. Not worth the aggravations. If we had known it would be completely up to us to monitor the subs, inspect the work daily, etc, we'd have never hired a GC to begin with....See MoreNeed HELP! Furnace
Comments (4)Handymac _ I'm somewhat puzzled as to why you would believe that a 5.75 amp total load (except when the blower initially starts we can momentarily reach 8.9) on a 20amp branch circuit - is overloaded?? This circuit was hooked up with permits; and signed off by the City. A Water recirc pump .25amps MAX. The Filter is .5 MAX. The Gas Furnace has a solid state logic control board; and of course a Blower. The max on the furnace at startup is 8.9amps. The furnace is not typically drawing 8.9... I rewired my entire house, adding numerous circuits, etc. by use of due diligence, the help of a friend who is an electrician; and by careful consideration of what particular loads would normally be seen on any given circuit. Oh yes - and supplying dedicated circuits like for the Refrig; Jacuzzi's etc. when the City and the Electrician stated Dedicated was required... BTW - I recently talked with my Electrician friend who now lives quite far away. He reminded me that a GFCI was not required for the Furnace. However - please note - I never stated it was! What was stated - was this setup has worked FINE - with NO problems for the last 6 years. NOW a problem has started. And yes, per your suggestion - I can remove the GFCI - and COVER UP the problem. I wasn't looking to cover up a problem. I was looking for possible info on an easy way to determine WHAT was now causing the problem. Is it the GFCI going bad? A component in the furnace failing? The recirc pump? The filter? I happen to like and appreciate the GFCI's. They work FINE on equipment which is not shorting to ground or to the outer surface.... I don't like the AFCI's so much... Since they tend to go off via Vacuum Cleaners, Treadmill's, some Refrigs, etc. And they are being required much more in remodels and new construction. Both are used to help save lives... But except for hanging some pictures on the wall, and stupidly putting a small nail into a wire - I'm not real sure why a vacuum cleaner has to be plugged into a AFCI circuit. But since code is requiring AFCI's to be used in a lot more places... Possibly you might have some more constructive info on how to determine what specific item is dying and going bad. Woodbutcher's response was informative. I thought - gee - I should have already have thought of that. And I was planning on acting on his suggestion. D....See MoreRon Natalie
6 years agoBruce in Northern Virginia
6 years agodirtmechanic
6 years agorwiegand
6 years agomtvhike
6 years agoRon Natalie
6 years agodirtmechanic
6 years agoaliris19
6 years agoRon Natalie
6 years agomtvhike
6 years agoVith
6 years agolast modified: 6 years agoT. J.
6 years agolast modified: 6 years agoweedmeister
6 years ago
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