Sandwich Generatin Vent
bpath
6 years ago
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eld6161
6 years agoyeonassky
6 years agoRelated Discussions
Ventilation - Wolf or Vent-a-Hood?
Comments (27)The light assembly failed shortly after we got the hood the first time. It was replaced. It failed again in October (we had the hood a little over 3 years total). The tech asked if we cooked more on that side - he thought more heat there And why we weren’t having the issue on the other side. he also asked if we run the fan when we cook, which we do - since that would minimize grease getting into the assembly. it seems to me that a hood should be designed to deal with heat - it is over the cooktop. The fact that the light assembly doesn’t seal out grease if that impacts the functioning of the light or any other internal mechanism in the vent hood is a design problem. I fully expect the light assembly to continue to fail from normal use based on this experience and what the tech told me - since there is no way to clean the grease out of the light assembly and heat from using the cooktop is expected Changing light bulbs is not the issue. I am now concerned about what other mechanisms have been affected or will continue to be affected by the inability to withstand heat and grease that gets into places that you can’t clean The $380 to replace the light assembly includes $145 for the service tech to visit, $64 for the light assembly part and $149 for the installation which is removing 2 screws and reinstalling the electrical connectors and the taxes. I did contact wolf and they agreed to cover $164 of this cost and recommended that I stick with their authorized service provider. When Clarke came to my house the first time, they fixed it quickly for no charge. When they came this time it took over a month to get an appointment- they told me that it might get covered by wolf or I might have to pay for it. Despite having told clarke what the issue was when I called they did not have the part when they came to my house. I had to pay the service fee before he left (he was at my house less than 5 minutes which included going to the truck to look for the part) and they called back later to say the soonest they could come back with the part was another 5 weeks. I wish I had done better research before I selected the unit. I am very concerned about how long it will last Given how much it cost originally- I never expected to have these kind of issues and that the cost to fix them would be so exorbitant I now will do better research on what the best long term solution is I will say that the dual fuel range and the wall oven from wolf have had no issues and they work well - I had a wolf cook top and double oven in my previous home and loved them as well which is why we thought going with a wolf vent hood was a good idea...See MoreNeed to vent !! :-( (very long)
Comments (31)I'd stay in a hotel in the same town. If some of the functions are at a hotel, stay there. Reunions have different get-to-gethers. That way you'd be close enough to go to whatever functions without the hassle of driving back and forth. As far as MIL, I'd tell her you were coming, rather DH can, and that staying in the hotel is for convenience as the functions are at different hours and some may run late. This way no worry of waking the house up. Then too, you'd be right there if schedule changed where you could be a part of all of it. Now, as far as that sweet, nice BIL. Tell hubby, you need to make arrangements for a U-Haul trailer to pull back home. He and you are going to BIL and tell him you are there to pick up the things you had given to the grandmother and appreciate him keeping them for you. Sorry it's taken so long but with no one telling you about it, you weren't there. Then time just went by. Just be sure to make a list you can hand him of what you want. If he doesn't have it, where is it? Who else was there and got things? Pay them a little visit too. If you are going to diss them off might as well do it in style. :O) Tell MIL to kiss your grits, so long, farewell, no more control. Have a happy life, etc!!!!!!! It has been too much time wasted worryng about MIL and her ways. People are what they are. She probably saw nothing wrong with what she did. That's her lifestyle. Take care of yourself, enjoy the reunion, and hope you get back the things given to grandma. Lynn...See MoreDoes this range hood/vent system work?
Comments (7)How is the exterior of the duct configured? Can you get an electrical line to it? Alternatively, can you get to the duct in the garage and add an in-line blower. Once your hood is in place and operational, you can check the outside for apparent flow rate (with some house windows open just to reduce any MUA choking). If it seems as weak as we might fear, you could consider replacing the cap with a supplemental blower or going with an inline blower. It would have to be wired back to a relay that the hood blower power energizes, or else the hood blower control would have to be upgraded to handle both motors' total power draw. This assumes that the hood uses a standard induction motor with one of the usual variable motor controls. Effectively, the exterior or in-line blower would be lowering the duct internal pressure, thereby compensating somewhat for the pressure losses in the MUA and hood baffles, duct turbulence, etc. The Broan (I think) scheme of using an air flow sensor to turn on an MUA blower won't work in this case for the supplemental blower because once flow is detected, the controlled secondary motor will keep itself on. You might be able to double the achieved flow with a supplemental blower. This should make up for using a duct of half the sectional area needed, but that will depend on both blowers' fan curves. You will possibly end up with adequate performance at the expense of another blower and perhaps a higher than desirable duct air velocity (over 2000 ft/min). In that case, insulating the duct in the garage (if the garage is unheated) will reduce grease collection in the winter. Before using insulation, check for vibration resonances and if needed cover selected duct sections with sound deadening material, such as the lead-filled [my assumption] sticky-sided plastic (maybe it is asphaltic) sheet used for automotive interior soundproofing. There is also the product here, but I have no experience with it. http://www.acoustiproducts.us/ Making the differential MUA house air pressure positive would also help the flow rate, but now house wall leakage outward will contribute to moving moisture into the walls from inside in the winter, a problem unless the house is ultra well sealed....See MoreHood Vent to fit 36" Fabuwood Hood
Comments (56)Well, let's see if I'm up to four questions all at once. Rule no. 1, do not believe VaH sales persons trying to explain blower operation unless you have some other means of determining their veracity, and most importantly, their understanding of the fluid dynamics of air. Rule no. 2. Blowers that suck air also blow air and cannot know what is the cause of the pressure differential across the blades, at least at the tiny pressure differences that apply to hood blowers. Pulling air could be a problem when the intake is at feet of water column reduced pressure, not inches. This does not mean that the blowers will be unaffected by operating into a duct bend, or from a hood transition, etc., but in general, even a VaH blower is pulling air from one side and pushing with the other side, and its blower, like all others, is constructed for one direction of air flow and to achieve a particular flow rate performance at a tolerable sound pressure level. I don't keep up with VaH, but I thought that their 1200 CFM (claimed) hood had two 600 CFM blowers, not four 300 CFM blowers. Perhaps they are using two motors, each with two cages. Fan blade tip noise is caused by the turbulence of the air spilling from the blade tip. It results from operating at a high speed exacerbated by spilling from a crude airfoil shape. Casablanca ceiling fans move a lot of air but the turbulence is at most modest due to the low speed of each blade tip. Duct noise is from irregular air flow in ducts. It generally won't be laminar at the flow rates of interest (1000 - 2000 ft/min). Pressure loss of bends is the result of degrading the flow due to increased side wall interaction as the moving air tries to pile into the blockage ahead before turning. Smoother longer turns reduce the effect. VaH Magic Lung blowers use squirrel cage designs that are good, I guess, for throwing grease at the hood walls, but have a weakness -- they don't like added pressure loss relative to some other popular fan configurations, such as axial in-line blowers or centrifugal carousel types such as Wolf/Broan/Abbaka roof blowers, so actual flow due to inadequate MUA or constrictive ducting will have a greater effect on actual flow rate than these other designs. It is certainly possible to build an external chase for ducting and even for the silencer (about 4 inches larger in diameter). Number of bends is worth minimizing, but it is always possible to specify a blower to provide the needed flow rate at a given pressure loss if the bend number cannot be minimized. Roof blowers usually also work mounted on walls. One secondary effect is that on roofs, sunlight UV generally degrades and eliminates any grease that condenses on the blades and is expelled onto the shingles, whereas on siding that is in shade the grease may become noticeable. Commercial blowers operated in up-blast or side-blast configurations likely will not blow grease onto house surfaces, but condensation within the unit may lead to some release around the unit. Downward ducting has a couple of deficiencies. The process of turning a rising plume to a downward direction requires additional energy (equivalent to pressure loss) and likely causes the grease particulates that escape the baffles to condense by impingement early rather than being expelled. To keep the typically long horizontal underfloor duct path from dripping, a continuous down tilt will be desirable, and in a typical basement this may lead to requiring a hole in concrete rather than in a wood wall. Some municipalities may not approve such paths. The "heat rising" view is probably less relevant because the duct velocity will be at least 10X the velocity of the intake to the hood. Last, an observation. My hood blower is rated for 1500 CFM and is roof mounted. Actual flow into my hood is about 1000 CFM with presently passive MUA. This is 100 ft/min air flow across the hood entry aperture. I have a 10-inch duct with LD-10 silencer. Flow is 1800 ft/min in the duct. There are three bends, all less than 90 degrees to get the vertical hood direction to a shallower direction in my attic that encompasses the silencer, then two more partial turns to match the roof blower's intake angle. Note that configurations of this type not only allow room for the silencer, but also allow the hood exhaust to be placed more optimally on the roof, if needed, than exactly above the hood. I hear mainly baffle hiss at the cooktop, with a slight underlying rumble, likely due to imperfect fan carousel balance interacting with imperfectly stiff roof planking. Edit: I feel comfortable asserting the baffle pressure loss, and MUA pressure loss, dominates all the pressure losses in my duct path. tl;dr: An external blower downstream from a silencer will always be quieter than a blower in the hood for a given flow rate so long as the external blower is not constrained to being significantly smaller than the in-hood blower. Other noise will depend on whether the baffle size and shape is reasonable for the air flow rate and the duct size is such that the air flow in the duct is in the range of 1000 to 2000 ft/min. Let me know what I forgot to answer....See Moremojomom
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