IF one of the trees is a silver maple, you might want to think about taking it out. Silver maples are notorious for dropping limbs as they get big. I don't know the law in Canada, and think it varies from state to state here, but I THINK the owner can be held liable for limbs that land on other people's property - since the trees in question are next to a street, it's something to think about. I don't know which tree IS the silver maple, nor what shape the scaffold/structure of branches is in, but it would give more light to the area. Some (depending on species) of the other maples aren't quite as aggressive with surface roots. You could limb up some of the trees, and get more light in that way too. I can certainly see why you want shrubs there, it's just a matter of finding them. Vines along the fence, as long as they aren't TOO aggressive, would be one way to give privacy. Evergreen vines are more difficult. Even though it can be an invasive thug, and would eventually need careful pruning, esp. to keep it out of the trees, ivy, I think, can take your winters if you aren't too cold - maybe not. (It's been too long since I lived/gardened in the North to remember!) Since we don't know your zone, it's a little harder to make suggestions. Clematis would grow, but might not flower, and they are deciduous. Grape vines the same, as with Boston ivy. Hardy kiwi vine, five-leaf akebia and AMERICAN (NOT the Japanese, it's an invasive thug) bittersweet, might also do, with the same caveats - few or no flowers and they are deciduous. You could try an non-invasive berberis, if such exists. Aronias or amelanchiers might grow - probably no fruit/flowers, and they would need pruning since they will try to grow to light. Ceanothus americana - New Jersey tea - might do - and might be hard to find. With watering, Clethra alnifolia might grow, and might flower. Some of the shrubby dogwoods might be OK. Fothergilla is another possibility, but might be too small. One of the deciduous hollies is another thought. And one of the native azaleas might survive. I would research all these to see what will do well for your area, and which are available in your area, which may not both be the same thing!

The original poster posed the question and was quite clear there was NO sun. Yet most of the entries offered are part shade to sun. Dry shade vs damp shade -- well, welcome to the Pacific Northwest where we have dry shade 3 or 4 months per year and wet shade through the rest; especially Oct - March! Finding the right plant is very difficult when dealing with deep shade. I agree with the post from the person who suggested you contact your county extension office, particularly a Master Gardener there; if they don't have the answer they have the resources to find out what is appropriate in your area. I was amused to see a couple of suggestions that are noxious weeds in Washington state!

Scot, I'm doing the same thing. I love my 'Meader' American persimmon, but the fruits from Americans are really very different from the Asian -- like the difference between a date and a mango in texture and culinary use, IMO. I'm going to protect mine the way Artictropic protects his awesome palm trees in the mountains of North Utah -- foamboard structures with a few cfc lights for warmth. Go to the Palms and Cycads forum and look at his pictures on some of his numerous posts. Truly awesome to see how well he overwinters palms in a Zone 4 climate with lows as cold as -45 degrees. The only concern I have doing this is tht I've always had a LOT of problems with voles getting into my structures and under mulch and destroying things, so I have to do a lot of vole proofing as well -- right now, the plants are in pots, but I guess I'm going to plant them into a cylinder of hardware cloth, and then cover the soil and trunks with the same. Next year, though, I'm going to overwinter them in pots in the barely heated garage one more year to get some size on them before throwing them to the mercy (or lack thereof) of winter in Michigan.

Good for thinking outside the box. Think twice about rose of sharon. Leafs out very late and is an ugly bundle of sticks till then. Unless it is one of "sterile' new cultivars they seed like crazy and you will be plucking seedlings all the next summer. But some, I don't remember if its the Satin or chiffon series are sterile. But again, they don't do or look like anything except for the three or four weeks they bloom. Lilacs....nothing....three weeks of bloom then nothiing. Do a mixed selection. Maybe you'll accept the 'suggestion' or reference to old fashioned without actually planting old style plants that have just one season of interest. (not that some new styles don't do any thing for 3/4 of the growning season) I live in a house built in 1811. I don't have a volunteer crew like an "showcase" historic house. owned by a historical society. Old fashioned isn't necessarily more beautiful, more fragrant, less bug susceptible.