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Flooring Design Dilemma Kitchens

Luxury Vinyl Planks - which brand for kitchen / LR renovation

7 years ago

last modified: 7 years ago

So, I thought we had made a final decision on our floor...i was wrong. After reading numerous reviews on here and other sites I'm scared that the Mannington Adura Planks in Essex Oak will fade due to sun coming in the kitchen windows (we are located in New England), as well as buckle and/or curl! Can anyone recommend or suggest a vinyl plank that doesn't have such problems?

Featured Answer

beachgal5

7 years ago

you might want to join this discussion:

https://www.houzz.com/discussions/poll-coretec-vs-modin-flooring-dsvw-vd~3387110?n=129

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Comments (8)

Melanie Rubery
7 years ago
Provenza LVP
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I have a friend who did this floor in her house. I am a flooring person and had to bend down and look and touch to tell it was not real. Great stuff. I like #1 best. Contrasts the best with the cabinets and seems to blend best with the doors and trim. It might make the space seem lighter. As lots of wood can darken areas somewhat. #3 is second choice as I like it better with every thing BUT your cabinets. It's ok with cabs as it has some dark areas and is a 'louder' sample. But seems more contemporary. I actually like it the best of the samples by itself. Just not with your cabs as well. Do not like any of the others. Not enough contrast with the other woodwork especially cabinets. #5 looks the most dated and unreal. Others seem too dark. I would keep the doors wood stained as they are but paint the trim. It looks like it needs sprucing up and with all other finishes changed will look more like it needs it. I'm doing stained doors and painted trim in our new house but realize others may not care for the look. I do like the vinyl planks though.
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I brought a sample home from Home Depot and could scratch it with my fingernail. Having said that, we went with a different brand as mentioned in my earlier post. it has a 5 mil wear layer with some kind of cerama beads, (I forget all the lingo I learned when researching ours). and I have never found a scratch on ours. We put it throughout our 1,000 sq ft cabin and also in our TV room at home. We have a 10+ lb. cat that tears around like a maniac. All claws intact. The wear layer is very important. It is recommended to put felt pads on all furniture feet. Makes for very easy moving of chairs etc. anyways. That way you shouldn't have to worry about scratches so long as there is no sand or stones lingering on the floor. But the felt pads would help minimize a problem anyways.
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Sorry but the LVP/LVT or even SPC/WPC product needs REALLY FLAT! Oh...no. The wobbly subfloor = DEATH to vinyl click ANYTHING. Why? Because the click edges are VERY THIN. Any bit of height variation will cause EXTREME stress on the click edges. Any stress on those thin, brittle, finicky, nasty edges and you LOSE the floor's integrity. And you lose warranty. And....and....and. I'm in Vancouver BC, so the extra $5K for subfloor work (by pulling the old floor, etc) doesn't even phase me. Cost of labour in Canada runs (roughly) $50/hour in the building industry. The sheet plywood is STAGGERING right now. Unless you purchase DIRECT from a mill (in small town Canada, that's ENTIRELY possible) you are looking at $3/sf for plywood alone. A tile install normally runs (all-in...tile+labour+materials) $18/sf and up...with prep being the extra (which is why he's saying DOUBLE the cost). Sorry but the 'lay it right over' the old wobbly floor is NOT correct. Everyone will tell you, "You can float it over anything," but they FAIL to mention the old floor MUST BE LEVELED and with a flatness rating that is ACCEPTABLE to the flooring manufacturer. I'd be happier with a STURDY laminate (except this is in a wet area) or an engineered hardwood (watch out for the clash) over vinyl being floated over wonky. Vinyl CANNOT HANDLE the floor height variances. The edges are too fragile, too brittle and too easily damaged just by standing on them over that wonkiness. Do the work. Pay the price and get the correct floor. If not, then just throw down any old 'King of Floors $0.99/sf vinyl' and be happy if you get 10 years out of it. You will replace it by then anyway, and you can pay for the subfloor work at that time...if you need to cap your costs today....but you WILL pay for it tomorrow. It's your call.
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Destroy clothes how would that happen? I have old school LVP from 15 yrs ago it is awesome we have huge dogs who run in and out all day from a dog run in all kinds of weather . A quick damp mop on rainy days and the floor looks aweosme it was Allure from HD. LVP has come a long way since then I use Mannington for my clients with good results. Most of those have pets and I just find hardwood and dogs a disaster usually very quickly.. Mine has never made weird noises, the new ones are pretty waterproof nothing is waterproof in a flood . I think it depends on the look you are going for as to realism . Check out Mannington and see what you think I know people on here like Cretc so you will need to go shopping for sure and since you ar eina rush the fact that it be in stack is proably important .
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beachgal5
7 years ago
check out Flooret
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Donna Borland
Original Author
7 years ago
Beachgal15 - we happened to be out last night and stopped into a flooring place. Flooret caught our eye and we brought a sample home. We also brought home Karndean. I really like both!
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beachgal5
7 years ago
Are you sure you have Flooret? It can only be purchased online and there are no retailers that sell it.
Donna Borland
Original Author
7 years ago
Haha - we have Floorte
jakkom
7 years ago
First of all, all LVT/LVP can be damaged by sun - it color-shifts. Regardless of brand, btw, unless a mfg has come out with a High UV-resistant line post-2015 when we did our LVP in the MBR.

However, I can say that it does take a consider amount of sun to make the difference, and I live in Northern CA where with an East-facing exposure, there is direct sun on my entire 2003 LVT kitchen flooring pretty much 300 days/yr. Knowing this, I had window film put on the main windows, but it only cuts it 50% (the 100%-UV blocking clear film wasn't on the market back then).

There has been a very slight color-shift on the LVT over 14 yrs, which I only noticed because one tile had to be replaced in 2016. Now, the pattern on my LVT is a slate-look, so it's less noticeable than a wood plank. The new replacement tile is a touch darker, and a little more reddish-tinted.

Realistically? It can only be noticed if you stand right over the tiles and look at them. From the usual side angle - say, you are 3' away and looking at it - you can't tell any difference.

So...will a wood-look LVP see a color shift? Possibly/probably. Have your windows anti-UV filmed - it wasn't that expensive, when I had it done in 2003 - and that should pretty much take care of it.

We have the Mannington Adura Essex Oak in our MBR which was installed in 2015. It's glue-down, our installer refuses to do any other type of install. We're extremely happy with it so far. Our south-facing windows downstairs are uncoated, but we always keep those blinds closed since the only view is of our neighbor's house!

If I had a view off to those side windows I would have just had them filmed. The other large window is north-facing, and indirect sun is not a problem.

High UV can damage just about anything. Before I had our kitchen windows filmed, the sun, over a decade's time, managed to fade even the laminate sides of my cabs, and laminate has the highest UV resistance of ALL materials. The UV actually bleached out the beech wood trim on the doors, turning it white in a few areas.
PRO
Shaw Floors
7 years ago
Some flooring types, like hardwood and vinyl, are more susceptible to fading or damage, respectively, when facing a lot of direct sunlight. If you are set on vinyl, we recommend you draw your curtains to limit direct sunlight exposure. On that note, our newer vinyl’s like Floorte and Floorte Pro are more suitable for rooms with prolonged periods of peak sunlight than earlier vinyl plank options. If you are open to other flooring types, we would recommend porcelain or ceramic tile, which isn’t as susceptible to damage from direct sunlight exposure. We have a lot of different wood-look tile options that would look great in a kitchen/living room. We have included a kitchen room scene below with wood-look tile for you to view. Let us know if you have any additional questions.
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