Yes, the mosaic is bordered by a thin limestone pencil tile. The white tile is thinner than the mosaic, so the pencil tile makes a nice transition between the two. This is not our tile, but it's the picture that inspired what we did with the pencil tile. Laying the tile out on the livingroom floor, just a single tile width, really helped to visualize what pattern we liked. I was going to do a full sheet of masaic (12") as the stripe, but when I laid it out it looked like too much mosaic. We played with the widths of the mosaic by cutting one sheet into 3" rows and adding or taking away sections to make different width strips. Doing this, coupled with taking the width of the cuts neccessary for the white tile into consideration really helped to visualize the look.

You can save some space with the claw foot tub by having no plumbing lines going through the tub itself, but just coming out on the wall. Then the spigot can splash its water into the tub itself. There would of course be a tub drain, and an overflow line above it, which go down through the floor, or maybe go into the wall as well. Our new 60 inch claw foot tub is by Restoria and it is I think acrylic, not cast iron. One person could pick it up and move it into the house once it is unpacked. And the finish makes it SELF CLEANING, have never had a ring around the tub. I do have a hand held "British" phone faucet set, which lets me wash my hair etc, while sitting in the tub. Such a tub is not really easy to stand in to shower, so having a separate shower stall, as you plan to do, is the way to go. Our tub is in an alcove and it has plenty of space. I did not realize the contractor could give me that much space, or I might have considered the 66 inch clawfoot tub. But with the back slope, I really love the 60 inch and find it quite long enough. Our walls are beadboard, and one of the beadboard walls is wainscoting height. That would be the one with the sink and the toilet. The tub, without a standup shower, can also be a wainscoted wall, wood like ours, or maybe a different material. But to keep an old fashioned look, the wainscoting out of boards with a painted (durable waterproofed) finish. If so, like our bath, there is no trouble with over spray. And we also got the 2" square unglazed mosaic porcelain tiles. Ours came from Lowes, Rialto Blanco, Italian, mounted on 12 x 12 mesh for easy installation. And it is non skid, and can be used on the walls, the floors, in the shower, and indoors/outdoors. Your plumbing lines can be handled from beneath the bathroom, which is one big plus for having a full basement down there. I cannot offer any ideas for positioning your fixtures, because my mind just will not wrap around where things are in your bath. So many alcoves, hard to visualize. Because you say it is 136 x 92, and that means it is 12'4" x 7'8", and I cannot even locate the door, or where the window is in that setup. I would think about having TWO medicine cabs, sunk into the wall, one over the other if possible. Does not have to be over the sink. Some bathroom walls are 4" thick, others are 6" thick, which can give you a lot of storage space. Make use of as many of these spaces as you can, and always always always, put a couple of extra GFCI plugs in. I recommend a gang of 4 plugs in one box to minimize the wires running through the walls. And remember that a single hairdryer pulls about 15 amps on high, so give yourself enough power to run a good vent fan, and maybe a little wall heater if you live where it's really cold. And, if you have the cash, think about heating the floor....that seems to be quite popular these days. Not for me down south, but where it is cold, your grandkids will love taking a bath...

Well, here's an opinion. I have a personal hatred of that kind of shower door. I'd take it out of there. Are you removing the tub, too? Do you need a tub in there? If not, I'd go with just a shower, but if the tub is a necessity, remove the sliding apparatus and just use a nice shower curtain that can be thrown in the wash and replaced inexpensively. Sure, extend the flooring in there if that is what you like. But I agree with Debbi W. that the flooring doesn't appear out of place, it's nice and neutral. The vanity looks fine to me. But if the finish is worn, I guess you can pay to refinish or paint, I don't know what that costs. Chrome fixtures are nice. Replace the mirrors. To me they look 80's-dated, and mirrors can be had inexpensively. I saw mirrors for $80 at Lowes, or Home Goods.... I'd lose the chair rail. No backsplash made of counter material, if you need a backsplash, do a nice complementary (to the countertop) large tile (not those mini-glass tiles--too much grout), I'd do a plainish tile if it were me. Backsplash made of counter material is not offensive to me, just not my preference. For lighting in a bathroom, like a long light-bar above the vanity, with maybe 6 down lights, because I like to be able to really see the mirror. I also like a flush-mount ceiling fixture, so there is some light in the shower as well. And get some chrome hardware to match the fixtures! Good luck.

You are brave, I could never let someone tile anything, unless I was able to check the layout daily! I hate the look of 1/3 offset, so I prefer to go with stacked when there is no other choice. I find the repeating stair-step pattern busy and prefer the straight simpler lines of the stacked pattern. You need someone to do a scale drawing of the layout to get a feel for how the patterns will work. Next best thing is if the tile installer will prop some tiles up in the different patterns and take some photos for you. Match the grout to each tile color. Good luck!