From what I have been reading, if you have a door to the room and it has different flooring that is okay. It would be just like it you had carpet instead of the Koa. I'm going to through the same thing now except I am dealing with currently 8 different flooring types all on the same floor - one of them being tigerwood which I love. Am hoping to get down to 6 or 7. Uggh. The other thing you can do if you are concerned is to perhaps border the master in koa and then put the mahogany inside. If your tigerwood is like mine, it will have a lot of dark areas that will go with the mahogany.

In response to the urine issue. The dog is barely 2 years old so temporary fix would still be at least 10 years. she is about 20 lbs and just dribbles. It has not been an issue for the wood in the rest of the house but certainly has caused a severe odor issue in the carpet because it is so small we dont always see it to clean it up. *On a side note there is an enzymatic cleanser called anti-Icky-poo. works wonders at getting the smell of urine out of wood. One of our foster dogs (great dane) marked a corner of our living room. I tried everything, but then used this stuff. it has been 6 months and still no smell in the corner.

I am thinking about using a shellac finish and sealer on this hardwood, which will be the floor for a kid's room. This Bullseye traditional finish and sealer product from Zinsser seems widely used and well liked: https://www.lowes.com/pd/Zinsser-Bulls-Eye-Clear-Shellac-Actual-Net-Contents-32-fl-oz/3449840 This particular product says it is clear, and I think there is an amber tinted version. Can shellac be applied without problems to hardwood? I believe I could put poly on top of the shellac and be done. Is this right? Any tips or warnings? There is also this Sealcoat by Zinsser, which does not appear to be shellac based. https://www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-Zinsser-854-Sealcoat-Universal/dp/B000C02BXW/ref=sr_1_3_mod_primary_new?dchild=1&keywords=zinsser+shellac+sealer&qid=1610393849&sbo=RZvfv%2F%2FHxDF%2BO5021pAnSA%3D%3D&sr=8-3 Would the Sealcoat be a better option to just put over the hardwood? I have read elsewhere that shellac can be applied over poly, which is good since I don't know what is on the existing floor. Other places say shellac could be sanded after application, so when we have a chance to completely sand and refinish this floor, I would probably want to do this. Does this sound like an acceptable temporary fix, or is there something I should consider before proceeding? Would shellac ruin or damage the hardwood. I am also thinking about LVP, but I am concerned this hardwood floor is not flat enough for that. I understand the subfloor for LVP must be 3/16" within about a 1 foot diameter to work. Any ideas about this? Is there a way eyeball this floor to determine whether click LVP could be put down? Thanks!

I think you take a box of each and lay them out next to yours with your lighting etc so you have a true visual of how they will blend or contrast and to ensure the tones coordinate well. I would get up to 4 options at 1st to work with starting with the closest match to the furthest contrast that you like. Once you have them played out in the patter next to your floors and in your light and the scale of the space it will make a big difference. You will be able time step back and see if from afar, in different times of day etc. Some will stand out right away as the wrong choice, others will take a news days and fighting to decide and narrow it down. Just make sure you can take them back and any time limits for refunds. Try one out at a time. Hope that helps. I also take a picture of things when I first do them and sometimes it helps me pick out changes needed right away. Maybe that is just me but for some reason it is a huge help lol.