The Ikea Datid or Nutid S23 are worth checking out - basically the same thing as the Whirlpool WRS965CIAM with different handles and missing the beverage rack (which can be ordered from the parts department if you must have it), but with an excellent 5-year warranty, and often a lower price. Similar refrigerators are also sold under the Kenmore, KitchenAid, and Jenn-Air brands, the latter two which Whirlpool owns. There are two heights available, the taller ones are about 72"h, almost 3" higher than the shorter ones for a bit of extra space inside if you have the height available. The Ikea is short only, Jenn-Air tall only, and the Whirlpool and Kitchenaid available both ways. These are new designs, with sleek LED lighting, wide glass shelves, and icemakers that don't take up any room in the main freezer compartment. There are minor feature differences between the different brands, but they're all the same basic design, and a vast improvement over the outmoded refrigerators Whirlpool was making until last year. The Electrolux Icon (and less-expensive Electrolux, Kenmore, and Frigidaire offshoots) are also worth a look, as are Samsung and LG.

I was SUCCESSFUL in removing several dents from my new stainless steel maytag. others were amazed at how much I was able to salvage our freezer door. do this at your own risk. First, I could only remove the round dents that had no creases. they were barely noticeable tiny tiny small round spots when I was done and only noticeable if I told you where to look and you got real close. But the deep ones with creases and gouges - although I was able to lift them out significantly, and make them more tolerable, it is pretty impossible with this technique to make them disappear. I bought some DRY ICE in addition to getting my MAP torch. The MAP torch is similar to a propane torch but it comes in the yellow canister, not the blue one and it burns hotter than propane. You must wear good gloves - both because you are using a welding torch and because you are handling dry ice which should not touch your skin. First, I heated the round dent and a small area around the dent. This lifted the dent somewhat. In a plastic container nearby I took out a piece of dry ice (about 4"x4" is a good working size to hold). Wrap the dry ice in a thin cloth and while wearing gloves, rub it over the area you just heated. keep this up about 5-10 minutes. go back and forth between the super heat and the super dry ice. A hair dryer did not work for me - it is not hot enough for the stainless to pop. also, be careful with the torch - don't get right close to the metal or you will have a lot of yellowed spots on the stainless - I did it with a sideways angle with torch flame going across the spot rather than dead on it. Now - as for the slight yellowing of the stainless which is similar to what happens on your stove from cooking- it was no problem for me. I used Bartender's Helper powder with a little water and made sure to clean/rub/buff out the yellowed/burned parts of the stainless in the SAME direction as the grain. For me it was horizontal so I only moved my special sponge horizontally. DO not use anything rough like those green scrubby sponges - they will leave horrible scratches. I found this special gray colored sponge at my local ACE store that said it was specifically made to clean stainless without scratching it. I just found the name - it is called the Jetz Scrubz Scrubber Sponge. Not a great name as I think it is very hard to remember.

I vote for a white fridge. Your dishwasher is directly across, and even with a panel change you would still have a fairly large portion of the top white. Have you thought about beadboard? It's sold in big sheets and is fairly inexpensive. I attached a site to show you how a beadboard kitchen would look. This one has SS appliances but note that it is also playing off a gray. Since you have plain face front cabinets, already painted, this might be a fairly inexpensive way to jazz up your kitchen. Note how they ran beadboard in the soffet area above the cabinets. Also, it was used as a backsplash. Buy sheets of inexpensive beadboard and molding and frame out new fronts using your existing cabinet doors. Then run it around the back of the bar. Change out the knobs. It looks like your overhead fan vent is a fairly inexpensive model. Probably wouldn't be too hard to remove, clean, and spray white. Paint the old paneling white until you can afford to replace it with beadboard. I think the white would go well with both your current counters and floor. However, you could also go with a glazed look if you decide to try the beadboard. Here is a link that might be useful: Beadboard kitchen

There are three kinds of refrigerators - full or regular depth; counter depth and integrated. What the previous poster was suggesting was a counter depth refrigerator which hulks less than a regular depth but still protrudes slightly from the counter. I have one of those and the sides do indeed protrude about three inches because the mechanism of the door requires some clearance to open. In my case, I have a paneled refrigerator and my cabinet maker extended the refrigerator enclosure to where the door would open and then he made a template and covered the part of that protrudes with the same wood as the rest of the wood work in my kitchen. I can post pictures if you are interested. Fully integrated refrigerators are completely flush to the rest of the cabinets and are indeed quite costly - most of them are SubZero so they are $8000 versus $2000 or so. Most people opt for counter depth refrigerators now because they hulk less into a room. Stainless steel really isn't an issue in terms of matching the sink or faucet - in my kitchen, I went with a lot of copper and so I didn't want large stainless clashing with the rest of the metal. Also, my kitchen is to the immediate left of the front door (high rise condo) and so I wanted there to be the beautiful wood doors as the first glimpse rather than stainless steel.