Need help with two yearlings
Hi, everyone!
I have a couple of yearlings experiencing some mottled yellowing in the leaves and it's driving me nuts because they look terrible! Here's one:
I have uprooted these to see if anything odd is going on below ground ... Nothing that I can tell. The roots are healthy, white, and very firm. I did notice a white residue where I had placed a single layer of tissue at the bottom the last time I repotted ... Could that paper have caused a fungus / mildew? I washed off the roots and dusted them with cinnamon, changed the soil and the new growth appears to be OK. Should I use a little epsom salt solution on the leaves?
Now, an altogether different matter is this one ... I think it's suffering from a little sunburn - See bottom left leaf:
This particular yearling was very lightly but visibly (delineated) variegated as a seedling. It's been raining, but if you take a close look at the leaves you'll see very subtle blue-green variegation:
Should I just take this one out of direct sunlight to morning only sun? Should I give it a little Epsom salt solution at 1 tblsp to a gallon? It is a Doksawai ... I can only hope it looks like this:
All my adenium are outdoors, in full tropical sun, and are fertilized weekly at 1/4 strength with a complete fertilizer with micronutrients, but no magnesium. Would it be advisable to add a little epsom salt to the fertilizer?
Thank you for your input ... Greatly appreciated!
Maria Elena
Comments (23)
Maria Elena (Caribbean - USDA Zone 13a)
6 years agoRelated Discussions
yearling habs need help
Comments (3)just my opinions. it was a mistake to hit with ferts when you did. the plant wants ferts when it is super warm and growing fast. you did not have that condition. you tried to force it to grow faster. you sort of put the cart before the horse. you want the plant growing then you fert. not fert then the plant will grow. I think the cold weather is just murder on peppers. mine were looking bad. I was taking them out in the daytime. but it got cold again. I brought them back in under the lights. and turned up the warmth. now they are at 75 to 75+ F and doing super under the lights. while it is chilly outside. I think it is a matter of style on chopping back and letting it go. if you are going to put them into the ground then letting them go is probably ok. if you will keep them in pots then I think cutting back makes more sense. especially when cold I use only fish and seaweed ferts. not chemical ferts. the natural fish and seaweed ferts are much more gentle on the plants. I did give my peppers a spray on the leaves with a touch of epson salts and fish fert and seaweed. just a bit. it seems to green up the leaves. but this was done indoors under the lights with warm soil. i estimate it took a good 12 hours to begin to warm up the cold soil in the pots. Peppers like it at 75 F. in general the peppers are put outdoors 2 weeks AFTER the last frost. You were more than a month before the last frost. the problem with hardening them off early is then you get forced to go back inside and they then have to be hardened off all over again or the leaves will burn again. I say definitely no more fertilizer until after the plants have grown a lot. or wash out the fert out of the soil with a lot of rain water run through the pots. chemical ferts are salt and they kill plants. remember chemical ferts kill plants. say that 100 times until you understand it. if you dont understand it then fert the plants real good with chemical ferts and watch them die. that helps to remember. after you kill a few hundred plants with chemical ferts you can try organic ferts like compost and fish and seaweed ferts. when you see the amazing results you can become an official convert. chemical ferts build up in the soil. so if they have been in the pots since the summer and you ferted them 10 times then the soil can get super salty and kill the plants. you must use up all the old ferts before adding more or else they build up and kill the plants....See MoreHELP! I need help to identify two weeds in my yard..
Comments (5)I guess down here, where the stalk doesn't sometimes die back in the winter, it might seem like a perennial, but Amaranth is really an annual. I've never seen it come back from the roots, but I've seen another plant sprout up right next to where last year's was, so it may seem like it does. Pusley has a long, deep root that is hell to dig out if you get a mature plant. They also seed like crazy....See MoreNeed help deciding between two tile grout colors
Comments (23)DC I’m not sure if I went with the Cobblestone or the one lighter, but I did not go with the light one to blend. The designer/realtor/remodeler, does it all, who sold our house to the 2nd person to go through it, the first day, for over asking price, said you want to see the grout lines. Scroll up, because I showed the finished projects....See MoreNeed help finding an affordable two sided tub!
Comments (2)It appears that the first one you pictured, the Signature Hardware 59" Aliyah at $1099 is the least-expensive such bathtub available. Bathtubs with that shape are just rare and consequently expensive. However, I'm not sure you can use this with a glass shower door. Confirm before buying!...See MoreMaria Elena (Caribbean - USDA Zone 13a)
6 years agoThanks, everyone for you input .... greatly appreciated.
Agartta: I also remove yellowed or dry leaves. I am on the equator on a tropical island, so we don't have winter. I've seen semi-dormancy in these, which does not involve shedding of leaves at all, just slower growth when overnight temps drop to 68-72 degrees F in Jan/Feb. Daytime highs always go back up to mid 80s during that time.
JStropic: Welcome to the wonderful world (and addiction) of adeniums! All of my plants are in the same location, and are growing under the same culture.
Only 2-3 of them have the yellow spotting. I check my plants daily, sometimes 3x daily. I do not have mites, aphids, mealy, or scale. There are predatory garden spiders but they don't harm these. Curling leaves can sometimes be a normal characteristic due to hybridization. Sometimes a leaf is deformed but that's what happens when everything is outdoors. They get pecked by finches, hummingbirds, grey king birds and trampled on by geckos, lizards, and iguanas. All sorts of moths want to lay their eggs on them. Right now, I am vigilant for hornworms, which are all over the neighborhood eating all the plumeria and adenium foliage. About sunburn, nothing has changed but while most adeniums can handle zone 13 scorching sun, there are some adeniums that are more sensitive. I believe that's due to genetics and hybridization. I certainly had to move anything with white variegation out of this sun.Rick: The thin single layer of napkin square at the bottom (to prevent soil from escaping a new repot ... It usually disintegrates to nothing fairly quickly but I think with the heavy rains it created a mildew in the soil. I have noticed that once I changed the soil and washed off the roots, new growth was not yellowing. However, what's already yellow just stayed that way. I don't know. Maybe this particular lot of paper napkins was bleached. Wild guess. I will lose that habit after this experience. And I will prune off the unsightly yellow mess once they bloom.
Yes, I label and keep a log for all my plants and note everything from DOB to repots to oddities to root formation. That's exactly how I know this was my lightly variegated seedling among the sea of 200 or so plants. I'm going to follow your advice and move it to the porch with my other variegates. Thanks.
Maria Elena
Peter Newcastle Aust spider mite breeder
6 years agoMaria Elena (Caribbean - USDA Zone 13a) thanked Peter Newcastle Aust spider mite breederPeter Newcastle Aust spider mite breeder
6 years ago
Agartta
6 years agoMaria Elena (Caribbean - USDA Zone 13a)
6 years agoPeter Newcastle Aust spider mite breeder
6 years agoMaria Elena (Caribbean - USDA Zone 13a) thanked Peter Newcastle Aust spider mite breederMaria Elena (Caribbean - USDA Zone 13a)
6 years agoMaria Elena (Caribbean - USDA Zone 13a)
6 years ago
jstropic (10a)
6 years agolast modified: 6 years agoMaria Elena (Caribbean - USDA Zone 13a) thanked jstropic (10a)
rcharles_gw (Canada)
6 years agoMaria Elena,
I use Coconut Husk chunks in all my adult mix. Love it. I find that the Fir Bark if it gets really dry, very difficult to get moisture back into it without soaking it. The Coconut Husk Chunks moisten easily, but do not stay saturated.
The other product which is highly used abroad are Rice Hulls. They are used in replace of Perlite and are a renewable resource also. They are light, add porousity to the soil and allow for air and good water movement.
Going to start using the Rice Hulls for seedlings and starting mix.
Rick
Maria Elena (Caribbean - USDA Zone 13a) thanked rcharles_gw (Canada)
greenclaws UK, Zone 8a
6 years agoMaria Elena (Caribbean - USDA Zone 13a) thanked greenclaws UK, Zone 8aMaria Elena (Caribbean - USDA Zone 13a)
6 years agoPeter Newcastle Aust spider mite breeder
6 years agoMaria Elena (Caribbean - USDA Zone 13a) thanked Peter Newcastle Aust spider mite breederMaria Elena (Caribbean - USDA Zone 13a)
6 years ago
rcharles_gw (Canada)