Gas or induction. Someone just tell me what to do.
linzita512
6 years ago
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Chessie
6 years agoUser
6 years agoRelated Discussions
Need someone to tell me EXACTLY what to do!
Comments (2)After three years, you need to find out what is wrong. Get a soil test (www.loganlabs.com--$20) Grass needs sun. No sun = no grass. Shady areas with some sun= fine fescue. Areas that get 6+ hours =KBG, TTTF or rye- your choice. No such thing as too much sun, just too little water. Seed will ONLY germinate when in contact with BARE soil.. Seed and pre and post emergent weed herbicides (except siduron and mesotrion) = no germination= no grass Seeding w/o PROPER watering = no grass. Hope that helps for starts.....See MoreGas cooktop AND induction? What to do?
Comments (8)I would encourage you to get a portable induction unit to test it out before you make such an important decision. A portable induction unit will serve you well during the remodel phase when your kitchen is out of commission too, so don't think of it as throwaway money or anything. I myself thought I "had" to have gas. We realized that anything we do that NEEDS gas, can be done outside on the grill. I prefer induction for energy efficiency and child safety reasons (plus heat responsiveness that is faster than gas!). So we are getting a Viking 24" griddle (VGGT240) with a 30" Miele induction next to it. The "30 inch" induction is actually 31.25" wide. I plan to leave 1" gap in between the two appliances so I will have 56.25" wide cooking space that I will vent with a 60" hood. If you put induction on the island, keep in mind you will also need venting on the island. Island venting is more expensive than wall venting. Plus the sum of two vents is more expensive than one, partly because of the HVAC cost to install the vents. Whether you have the 60" bluestar or the 48"+induction, I believe you need a 66" hood, not 60". The general rule of thumb is you need 3" overlap on each side. Especially since you said you often have all six burners going, you will really NEED that 6" overlap. I also don't know if you can really install the 12" induction unit butted up right next to a free standing bluestar range. I would expect you need at least a sliver of counter on the side for the induction to be installed into. Does that make sense? So maybe a 48" bluestar + 12" induction will actually total more than 60" because you'll need some space in between. Also, I don't know the specs on the bluestar but most ranges sit slightly above the counter top. That would really make your induction feel cramped, to have an obstacle (your range) on the side which limits your motion. The bluestar might not do that -- just check first. One benefit for me with induction is that I don't have to deal with the height of cooking grates. My cooking height is at 36" with the Miele induction. My current range, the grates put my cooking surface height at about 37.5". I'm short so it's hard to see into the back pots. I hope this helps and gives you food for thought. It's a tough decision. I had my heart set on a lot of things and as I step back and really think through things, and gone out and touched and felt appliances and started to get a clearer visual of my future kitchen -- I've had to emotionally let go of a lot of things that I thought I wanted. But the final result is I am even HAPPIER. :)...See MoreNeed 2 washers & 2 gas dryers. Please just tell me what to buy!
Comments (4)no mine are not stacked but they do have the kit to stack them I saw on their website. I have done loads of various sizes and all in all the time is pretty close to what it was on my old top loaders, on the FL the wash takes longer in general I would say 50 mins but the dryer is very fast so takes much less time there. I usually dry mine on the less dry setting and even when doing a load of sweats and towels only had 2 items that had to be put back for a few more minutes. Yes I do my sheets and comforters, I follow the advice from the website and add some towels in with it so that there is less twisting. I have not had any problems with wadding or twisting so far. I had been worried about it since I read so much about that happening, but in reality it always happened in my old set so I expected it to happen in the new ones to some degree. Mine are set on my tile floor which is on a solid concrete foundation and I have no vibration. I do not have pedestals....See MoreHelp me choose new range - gas vs induction
Comments (26)The comments about ten-power settings got me musing on the subject and about Amy's initial question about logarithmic power controls. Here's where that lead me. Nobody really has logarithmic power controls, but there can be power settings spaced to sort of approximate a logarithmic curve -- a number of settings at the low end with only a couple of additional points needed to define the steep side of the curve for really high heat. In theory, that can be done with a ten-step power curve and some folks do find 10 power settings fine for what and how they cook. Others do not. Is anybody else here old enough to remember the GE stoves and cooktops from 50's and 60's with ten mechanical pushbuttons for heat settings? Those pushbuttons were literally "digital" controls, meaning that you punched them with one of your digits. GE sold a lot of them for a couple of decades, so some people found them adequate. Some did not. For the current digital electronic ten-step controls, others here besides loonlakecamp have reported satisfaction with a ten step set-up. Others, like me, would find them inconvenient for my cooking with, say, my pressure cookers. With only ten heat level steps, I would have to be constantly switching settings to maintain the correct pressure. Power setting "1" might be too low, setting "2" might be too high. Switch to 1 for a while until the pressure drops a little too low, switch to 2 for a while until it gets a little too high, then back to 1, etc., etc. With in-between settings, I avoid that annoyance. You don't use pressure cookers? Then maybe having in-between steps won't matter to you. This is just one example of how cooking styles can differ and how more settings can matter to one cook and not to another. Much fuss is sometimes made about the supposedly infinite adjustablity of gas burners. As a practical matter, though, we mostly try to get the burner to the same relatively few settings. Searing is pretty much searing, isn't it? If you deep fat fry, how often would you care if if the oil were at 352° instead of 350°? But maybe somebody is working with sugar syrups where, say, it might matter if a syrup is at 325° and not 360° and then maybe it matters if the induction burner only has ten settings. That said, the subject of induction power settings and controls can be more complicated than just the number of settings. The need for finding "in-between" steps for induction cooking can reflect two different aspects of ways that manufacturers design induction burner controls. One consideration is the power cycling that all induction burners use for settings of less than full power. A technical term for this is "pulse width modulation. or "PWM." It is the same kind of thing a microwave does for low heat levels---momentary pulses of power that average out at a particular heat level. With most PICs as well as some brands of induction cooktops and ranges, the PWM is pretty crude. I've seen this somewhere described as firing up the burner for a second or two of omigosh hot and then switching totally off for three or four seconds. While these pulses average out at a certain heat level the timing can be problematic for, say, the srambled eggs that Amy mentioned at the outset. Combine that kind of "low frequency" PWM with the crude power controls found on many PICs, and you could have a reason that Amy would find herself wanting steps in-between power level "1" and "2" for scambling eggs. Some full size induction ranges and cooktops work this way. I noticed a lot of pulsing at the low heat settings on the Maytag induction range I saw demoed several years ago when I was stove shopping. From past threads on PWM, I gather than Whirlpool's induction ranges and cooktops (which include Maytag and Kitchenaid brands) have used crude PWM. For searching out past threads here on this subject try a search strings like "induction + pulsing + gardenweb" and "induction + cycling + gardenweb." A few of the expensive PICs (Cooktek, Garland, Vollrath) and many full size ranges and cooktops use much higher frequency PWM. Instead switching on and off for a second or more at time, the power switches on and off many times per second. The higher frequency of switching yields much finer power control that more closely approximates a steady heat level. The other design aspect that can lead to wanting "in-between" settings is in how the engineers program the electronic controllers to space the power settings on the appliance you are using --- that's the kind of logarithmic curve I thnk Amy may been thinking about when she posed her question in the original post. . For manufacturers, the least costly controls use simple linear spacing. Setting "1" would use the PWM to average 10% power, setting "2" would be 20%, etc. Even with a high quality PWM, though, 9 or 10 linear settings may be too crude, A thing most induction users discover pretty quickly is that they do most of their cooking in the low to medium range settings. The highest setting can be used for boiling. One or two medium high settings takes care of high heat applications like searing. There seem to be three strategies for induction manufacturers to address the crudeness. One is to add half-steps between the numbered power settings. The other is to program the stove's controllers to put more steps in the low to medium range and fewer in the high ranges. The third strategey combines the first two. Without using the particular induction stove or cooktop, it can be hard to find out whether the particular unit was designed to use one or the other or some combination of them. In my own somewhat limited experience, it seems that the GE induction appliances and Electrolux's Frigidaire/Kenmore ranges seemed to use a modified-half step approach with some concentration of steps but also using half steps for finer control. The Electrolux-branded models use a slightly different approach with quarter-steps at the lower power ends and fewer steps at the high end. Miele cooktops seem to use a similar kind of mix with the option of switching on more steps. I'm not sure how BSH (which includes Bosch) handles this except that their induction appliances manuals show that half-steps are available. The Samsung freeestanding induction ranges seemed to follow the GE model (19 half steps). The reports about Samsung's ten-step "Chef Collection" model seem to conflict, some seeming to say that stepping is linear, some hinting that the settings may be skewed to the lower end. There is a yet another strategy which is the near infinite stepping of of potentiometer-like controls. These control systems seem to be very expensive so, AFAIK, they are used only for the commercial Garland/Manitowiac PICS and maybe the new Miele induction range have this. I say "maybe" for the Miele because there is nothing about it in the product literature and the display shows only whole-number settings, but a couple of posters here -- livinginseattle is the name I recall -- have reported finding that the knobs can be turned to provide fine gradations of "in-between" settings. Some folks would find that ideal. Then the question becomes: how much are you willing to spend for the "ideal" (and are there other design compromises that have to accept in order to get that ideal function for the burners?)...See Morecpartist
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