Need advice on well water filtration
Heather
6 years ago
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Heather
6 years agoRelated Discussions
Need advice on pond filtration
Comments (5)Nothing in the pond has been touched since it was finished in October. The water is actually clear as a bell, just slighly discolored, probably reflecting the algae on the bottom. Water test kit shows everything is fine. The UV light is on, and I have an extra bulb and know how to replace it. As for the camera, it is from National Geographic - they make a film version and a digital version. I use the digital. The name of it is "Wildview" and I got it on the National Geographic Web Site. It can be set for 1, 5, 10, and 20 minute timeouts, and for high and low resolution. It comes with a strap for securing it to a tree. All you need to do is attach it to the computer with a USB cable and upload the photos. If you have a PC with Windows 98 or earlier, you need the software which comes with it....See MoreNeed advice re under-sink water filtration systems please
Comments (11)Ours is from Multi Pure. We like it a lot. I found it on a website listing water filters that have NSF 53 certification. Most water filters, if they're certified at all, only have NSF 42 certification, which is called "aesthetic effects"--that means it removes contaminants that make the water look or taste funny, but not all the invisible ones that are actually the worst for your health. NSF 53 is for health effects, so it removes not only the things that affect look and taste, but also the other stuff. You can look on this site to find NSF 53 filters of whatever type you want (undercounter, on counter...) and it shows you what contaminants they remove: http://www.nsf.org/certified/dwtu/ The reason we went with this rather than with a bigger-name brand is because I just couldn't find actual information about the big-name brands. I wanted a list of specifically what they removed, and how much of it they removed. That doesn't seem like a lot to ask, but surprisingly, the big-name brands don't list that info anywhere! That made me kind of not trust them, actually, so we went with one that both (a) provided that information and (b) had been third-party certified (by the NSF) so we could be sure that info was accurate. It was a very easy install for the plumber and my husband could probably have done it himself, but we just wanted it done professionally. The water is great--we did a blind taste test on each other after it was installed, and we could tell tap water from this water, no problem. Our model is the 1200EL, and we chose a brushed nickel faucet--you can get any of about six different finishes. We have a 23" sink at the moment and the unit fits fine in the space underneath. We didn't have to remove any of our other stuff (our cleaning products etc. are under there too). Here is a link that might be useful: MultiPure water filters...See MoreWater filtration and softener for new home with well
Comments (2)Always keep your sediment filtration separate from your softener. It should be installed UPSTREAM from the softener. If you have a lot of sediment, a backwashing filter is the way to go. If not, a cartridge filter, like the Big Blue will work nicely. The best install is to place two of them in parallel so that one can be changed without shutting off the water. Go with two 4" diameter by 10" length. As to softener size: How many people in the home? Well or city water? If city, you need to obtain a copies of several quarterly reports - most likely they are available online. If well water, you need a more complete water test, to include: TDS, pH, hardness, bacteria, iron, manganese, alkalinity, sulfites, nitrates, any other contaminants recommended by your local lab - they will know what to expect in your area. Have you spoken to any local water treatment pros to see what they recommend?...See MoreNeed advice: acidic well water with iron
Comments (3)pH adjustment without increasing hardness: The pH of your water is low enough that you can use soda ash (sodium carbonate) for pH adjustment instead of a calcite media bed. However, be aware that this system is a good deal more complicated than a fully automated calcite system and will require more of your time as a homeowner. Soda ash is purchased as a granular powder, which you would have to mix with water to form a solution. That solution would then be injected into your water via a small pump that would be ratio-controlled to water flow rate or a feed-back loop from a pH meter. Either way, it will require attention on your part. Given your lack of chemistry knowledge, I wouldn't recommend it unless you will 1) learn the chemistry and maintenance of the pump and meter, 2) set up a contract for someone else to do it for you, 3) have someone else in your household with the necessary knowledge/experience. A little light reading about iron removal: Softener: A softener with specialty resin is capable of removing dissolved iron, up to 7 ppm (mg/L) but asking a softener to remove iron at those upper limits is really pushing it so I do not recommend this method. In addition, a softener will become fouled with particulate iron. A softener will not remove sulfur compounds. Oxidation/Filtration: An oxidizer such as ozone, air, or chlorine may be used to react with he iron and force it to become particulate iron that can then be removed via filtration. This will also remove most sulfur compounds. A typical setup would involve the oxidizing unit, a holding tank, then a media filter. This type of system works quite well, but takes some expertise in sizing - you would want a water treatment pro that you trust to help you with this option. Oxidizing filtration media: This type of treatment consists of a sealed tank filled with one of several media. Water passes through and is oxidized and filtered by the media. Most will remove sulfur compounds as well as iron. These are relatively easy to operate and what I would recommend for the average homeowner. There are several different media that can be used (this is not an exhaustive list): Manganese greensand: water runs through for treatment. The media must be regenerated with potassium permanganate. Care must be taken with dealing with potassium permanganate as it readily dies organic material, such as your skin, a purple-brown color. Some people are quite comfortable dealing with the chemical; others are not. Synthetic greensand: This is essentially the same as option (1) but consists of a coating of greensand on a silica sand core so does not require as much backwash flow. Service flow rate is 2 - 5 gpm/sqft. Backwash flow rate is 12 gpm/sqft. Birm: This media acts as a catalyst to force oxidation of iron. While it does not need to be regenerated, it does need fairly high dissolved oxygen in the water. If your water does not have adequate dissolved oxygen (and it probably doesn't since it is well water), air injection would be necessary prior to the birm. Additionally, birm requires a minimum pH of 6.8. Service flow rate is 3.5 - 5.0 gpm per sqft. Backwash flow rate is 11 - 20 gpm, depending upon water temperatures and desired bed expansion. Pyrolox: an ore that oxidizes then filters the iron out. It does not need regeneration, but needs to be backwashed (to rinse out the iron) at a high rate. pH range is 6.5 - 9.0. This type of filter works very well, but backwash is critical. Service flow rate is 5 gpm/sqft. Backwash is 25-30 gpm/sqft. Backwash daily. Terminox: Similar to Pyrolox, but a proprietary formula . It does not require as much backwash flow rate and is more resistance to a low pH. The particulars are only available from the company that sells it - this means you have to rely entirely on the vendor for proper sizing. Backwash daily. Filox: Also similar to Pyrolox. pH range 5.0 - 9.0. Backwash flow 12-15 gpm/sqft. Service flow 6 gpm/sqft. It must be backwashed daily. Pro-OX: Essentially the same as the previous three. Requires 12-15 gpm/sqft backwash. As with Terminox, specs are lacking information so you'll have no way of knowing if the unit you get is sized appropriately. Katalox-light: Similar in action to the previous four, but is comprised of zeolite, manganese dioxide and hydrated lime. It should be designed for 6 -12 gpm/sqft service flow atnd 8 - 10 gpm/sqft backwash. For well water, it's a good option as it requires lower backwash. In all cases, media ought to be replace somewhere between 5 - 10 years. If any vendor tells you their media lasts forever, walk away - they aren't trustworthy....See MoreHeather
6 years agoJake The Wonderdog
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