To me, any tree that can't support itself and needs rigging to keep it upright is not pretty to look at. Fortunately, I don't get fixated on a perfectly straight trunk, so I regularly prune fast growing plants or those that naturally flop over to stiffen them up. A 6" stick of a given diameter is much more difficult to bend than a 16" stick of = thickness. Tree trunks are no different, so if you shorten yours it automatically becomes more rigid. After you prune, you can train a newly emerging branch to the vertical, or prune an existing branch back to a bud facing up for a fresh leader. The rewards we get from growing can be expanded via the application of what we learn. For instance, buying a plant and watching it grow can be rewarding. Watching it die because of root congestion or a high level of salts accumulated in the soil isn't; so learning how to eliminate those conditions that induce decline is a reward over and above just watching a plant grow. Taking control over how a plant is to look, at least for me, also adds another level of reward. The more I learn and apply, the more rewarding growing gets. Because I recognize how much more reward there is to be had from learning how to manipulate your plants and physically create something pleasing to the eye while keeping them healthy over the long term, I can get excited about sharing with you the things that have helped me increase what I am able to take from the growing experience ...... which is why I'm here instead of parked in front of the TV. THIS is rewarding - TV isn't. ;-) If the tree has recovered from the repot, you could cut it back if you like to stiffen and hopefully force some branching. I think if you remove the top 4 leaves, it will leave you with a nice cluster of leaves with short internodes. Typically and for tropical/sub-tropical trees in general, you want to do your hardest pruning in late spring (Mem Day or so, for you). This allows you to remove all the lanky growth that comes over winter, and to keep the nice growth with short internodes that occurs during high light periods after Mem Day. Al

I missed the 4th picture from the top, which shows the leaf arrangement to be 'opposite' (leaves arranged in pairs on opposite sides of the branch). Ficus leaves are alternate (arranged singly along the stem in alternating locations). So whatever it is, it's not a Ficus. Some good Samaritan who's better at IDs than I, will come along and tell you what it is. Your soil should be something you can water to beyond the saturation point (so you're flushing accumulating salts from the soil) without the need to worry the soil will stay soggy so long it affects root health or function. Your soil choice is probably going to have more impact on how easy/ difficult it will be to keep your new pals healthy. I'm not sure how much effort you want to put into learning about the importance of soil choice and it's impact on plant vitality; if you're interested this link covers it, and probably represents the largest step forward a container gardener can take at any one time. The goal for fertilizing containerized plants can easily be described. Ideally, we would work toward ensuring that all the nutrients plants normally secure from the soil are in the soil solution at all times, in the ratio at which the plant actually uses the nutrients, and at a concentration high enough to ensure no deficiencies yet low enough to ensure the plant isn't impeded in its ability to take up water and the nutrients dissolved in water. This goal is easily achievable using one water soluble synthetic fertilizer. You CAN use organic forms of nutrition, like fish/seaweed emulsions or various types of meal, but that makes it much more difficult to achieve the goal. I use Foliage-Pro 9-3-6 because it has ALL the essential nutrients in the ratio at which plants actually use the nutrients, and it gets most of its N from nitrate sources, which helps to allow plants in low light conditions to remain compact and helps keep them from getting leggy. Al

msautomatic, I would get a quart of "Foster's" beer, a damp sponge and a comfortable chair. I would hand wipe both surfaces of each leaf. Use only enough pressure to dislodge the scale insects. Inspect the plant carefully and regularly to remove any re-infestation. If you are going to ask what the "Foster's" is for, I would question whether you are really an Australian. Incidentally, the 'Bambino' appears to be quite a promising houseplant.

Back to the Ficus, I can't imagine it needs that much water if it's only being kept at 65. These are tropical plants and grow best in heat and humidity. Also, moisture meters don't actually measure moisture, just electrical conductivity, so they're not accurate in terms of telling you when to water. You'd be better off inserting a wooden chopstick or similar into the soil for a minute then pulling it out. If it's cool, damp, or has soil stuck to it, the pot still has moisture. Slooper, do you have a heat mat you could place it on? The warmth might kick start some growth if the plant is healthy enough.