Dyna-gro Pro-tek or Maxicrop for rose midge?
enchantedrosez5bma
6 years ago
last modified: 6 years ago
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jim1961 / Central Pennsylvania / Zone 6
6 years agolast modified: 6 years agohenry_kuska
6 years agoRelated Discussions
Foliage Pro delivery
Comments (74)I bought a plastic sprayer for less than $10 at Lowes. I use a dilute mixture that I spray to foliar feed. It only takes a few pumps to spray for several minutes. When foliar feeding with the Foliage-Pro, you only need to use 1/2 teaspoon or less per gallon of water. For foliar feeding, you only need to spray a fine mist on the leaves. You don't have to douse them with a huge amount. TAPLA is completely wrong in saying above, "Foliar feeding is very inefficient...." Research has shown that foliar feeding is an extremely fast and efficient way to provide trace nutrients. While it might not be practical for large farms, foliar feeding can work very well for home gardeners. I like foliar feeding because it uses only small amount of fertilizer, so it doesn't contribute to water contamination due to runoff. Research has shown improved fruit production, when foliar feeding tomatoes during blooming. While one should wash out a sprayer after each use, I am only using this sprayer for fertilizer, and I leave the feeding solution in the spray until the next time I want to spray the plants. I never use any poison sprays, so I don't have to worry about confusing this spray with anything else. Since the sprayer is all plastic, I have not had any problem with it rusting or corroding. I keep the sprayer in the dark so that algae will not grow inside and clog the sprayer. I kept the box it came it and sit the canister back inside its box to keep it dark until I'm ready to spray again. It is a super way to provide calcium to prevent blossom end rot in tomatoes, without having to worry about changes in the soil pH....See MoreI'm liking my Princess Charlene de Monaco
Comments (38)I thought PCdM was supposed to be short when I got mine and planted it in front of a bed. It grew to about 6 ft by end of season that first year (but stayed very narrow), so I moved it last year (its second) to a different bed. Here are a couple of full bush shots from early May this year...that's a six foot fence behind it. I hard pruned it last year and this year to encourage it to get bushier and that has helped. It still gets taller than the fence by end of season, but is a bit fuller. These pictures don't do it justice...much prettier rose in person...See MoreGrow roses in containers, and need advice for soil
Comments (44)This seems like the perfect thread for information about roses and 511 mix. I decided to put all my roses in 20in x 20in air pots with 511 mix. All of them were bare root. So far, it hasn't been great. the bareroots have taken more time than usual to start growing. They also show signs of needing more water. My mix seems to be water repellent and I have had to start watering earlier this year in order to keep the roses from dying off. After a couple of rains and waterings, the pots seem to be holding onto water a little better, and my roses are starting to wake up. But I can still tell the soil is dry when I stick my finger in the top of it. I guess that means it's draining well, but it's not retaining water. This made me worry about summer. So I decided to take some smaller 5gallon air pots and double the peat moss in the recipe to 512. It still drained really fast, but I don't know if that is better for the larger pots or not. So I took another pot and increased the mix to 513. After filling it with water, it behaved much more like the potting mix I normally use (miracle gro potting mix). This morning, I could tell it was retaining water. We had an 80 degree full sun day today, so I'm going to see how it handled it when I get home from work. Thought I'd share this for others who might be interested in this. Everyone's experience has already been very helpful!...See MoreThose who use chemical fungicide and rotate
Comments (50)Hi Everyone! I did not spray any type of fungicide on my roses at all this season. Many of my new roses, ones that were planted last fall, got brutal Black Spot this summer. All the leaves are/were gone. I have never seen such naked plants. These were mainly the modern roses and David Austin roses. Now the surface of the mulch below them is covered with yellow infected leaves. Some of the leaves have already decomposed and some are breaking down. And people are walking over the area going here and there spreading the spores everywhere. Some spores are washing into the soil, I bet. And I can only imagine just how badly the spore count has increased in my garden. I am wondering if I should spray the affected roses and the surface of the mulch at least twice, one week apart. Then cover the whole area with a very thick layer of mulch and re-inoculate the area with beneficial soil microorganisms, Would that be enough to kill off most of the Black Spot? Or would I need more applications? I often see recommendations not to spray the ground. So as to not harm soil fungi or prevent contamination of groundwater? Or both? I have also seen people with fruit trees spray the ground around their trees routinely. Is it a bad idea to spray the surface of the mulch on a dry day? I just want to mitigate this BS crisis but not do further harm. Covering with more mulch will help, I think, and with a rich population of soil organisms the spores will get eaten. For the above spraying I would use Bayer and Mancozeb. I also have Infuse. Do I need to alternate this late in the season? I also got tomato early blight this season. It has never ever happened to us. My husband bought a tomato plant somewhere and I noticed the funky leaves but before I could think the fungus was on all the plants. Some plants died and most are holding on by a thread. I have heard Daconil can work. Do any of you know if Daconil is at all effective if the plants already have been infected? Is there any other fungicide that can be used on tomatoes? Thanks a bunch! PS. Bonide's Infuse which is Propiconazole 1.55% is not being sold by Amazon anymore. That is where I got it. Some say it is killing there roses. The instructions on the label say to use 2 Tbs per gallon for BS. @BenT (NorCal 9B Sunset 14) suggests 1/4 tsp. What is the effective concentration of Propiconazole in water to treat BS in roses? It could also be there is some problem with Bonide's production or formulation....See MorenanadollZ7 SWIdaho
6 years agoMoses, Pittsburgh, W. PA., zone 5/6, USA
6 years agolast modified: 6 years agohenry_kuska
6 years agoenchantedrosez5bma
6 years agoVaporvac Z6-OhioRiverValley
6 years agolavenderlacezone8
6 years agoenchantedrosez5bma
6 years agoVaporvac Z6-OhioRiverValley
6 years agoDingo2001 - Z5 Chicagoland
6 years agoVaporvac Z6-OhioRiverValley
6 years agoPatty W. zone 5a Illinois
6 years agohenry_kuska
6 years agoPatty W. zone 5a Illinois
6 years agohenry_kuska
6 years agoDingo2001 - Z5 Chicagoland
6 years agoDingo2001 - Z5 Chicagoland
6 years agoenchantedrosez5bma
6 years agolast modified: 6 years agoenchantedrosez5bma
6 years agoPatty W. zone 5a Illinois
6 years agoenchantedrosez5bma
6 years agoPatty W. zone 5a Illinois
6 years agoenchantedrosez5bma
6 years agoPatty W. zone 5a Illinois
6 years agoDave5bWY
6 years agoenchantedrosez5bma
6 years agolast modified: 6 years agoDingo2001 - Z5 Chicagoland
6 years agoDave5bWY
6 years agoVaporvac Z6-OhioRiverValley
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6 years agoVaporvac Z6-OhioRiverValley
2 years agoenchantedrosez5bma
2 years agoVaporvac Z6-OhioRiverValley
2 years ago
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