Thank you very much for commenting back! I did water it the day before this happened completely the wrong way (I put water in the basein and let it absorb through the bottom which I know is completely wrong now the florist didn't give me much info tho)

the soil atm even though I watered is very dry (I can pull the whole plant and soil out of the pot)

I'm just wondering what would be best to do now? I was going to re pot tomorrow and check out the roots the see if there's anything wrong but now I'm not sure if just leaving it would be a better option ? Again thank you.

Repotting may be a good idea depending on the soil it's in now (and you can get a look at the state of the roots and stem for any rot) I use a 50/50 mix of cactus soil and perlite (can also use cactus sand) Repot in a clay pot, with a good drainage hole and let the little one rest for a bit after repotting before watering again. They prefer south facing windows and not to be fussed with / moved around the room

I don't know that bottom watering is "completely wrong". Who told you that? I water all of my succulents from the bottom as you described. I just make sure the water isn't too high and gets into the rosette. Personally i wait until it is pretty much dry at the bottom of the pot before watering again. My pulidonis gets watered about every ten days. When you repot use either a gritty mix (can search the forum for info on that) or you can use cactus soil combined with perlite. Mix in at least 50-60% perlite to make it well draining.

The reason your soil might be dry is that the peat in the soil may have become hydrophobic and cannot absorb water very well. When. You repot make sure you fully remove all the old soil and peat from the roots. Do not water right after repotting as roots may be slightly damaged and you don't want the plant to rot.

Thank you both I will re pot tomorrow then and I have cactus soil and Perlite and a clay pot.

I'm guessing the roots aren't going to be too affected, but what should I look out for in terms of rot ?

I also keep him on a south facing window that's always open. But I don't know if just having the window open is enough circulation?

also Katherine im not an expert and I'm sure you probably know more than me but from what I've read you should drench the soil from the top (not over the rosette but under it) and let the excess water drain but like I said I'm sure you probably have grown way more plants than me but this leaf problem only happened after I watered it from the bottom so honestly I don't know.

also I think you're definitely right about the soil since it's from a store I'm guessing the soils probably never been changed. And should I wait about 10 days to water after re potting then ? :)

thank you both very much and I would appreciate anymore help but I don't want you to feel obligated to answer any of my questions since I have so many aha

Rot would be anything black, squishy, slimy, smelly, etc. You'll probably know it if you see it.

You don't need to wait 10 days after repotting before watering. A few days should be fine. But you also should start observing the plant to learn when it's thirsty - leaves might wrinkle or droop a bit. Always better to water when the plant needs it rather than on a set schedule.

What were you getting pesticide for?

Thank you for answering my questions Liz like I said before I'm finding it really hard telling the difference between under and over watered, the leaf in question is shiveled and yellow kinda of soft not mushy though.

& the pesticides I got isn't really pesticide it's pest repellent just a spray gun of esstential oils and seaweed so I think one spray of the to repel bugs with okay ?

Again thank you so much and sorry for taking a while to reply I was sleeping.

If the plant was sitting in wet soil, roots could be affected - that's what wet soil does. Or, if it became hydrophobic, roots could easily dry up and die. So checking roots is important and getting rid of improper soil is important.

Roots could be rotting, or stem could be rotting - you will be sure if yes or no when you take plant out of existing pot & soil. Yellowing leaves could be waterlogged: if the plant is watered too much, they plump up, get soft and yellowish-watery color. Old leaves also get yellow and dry up, but this is natural - leaves do not last forever. They dry up crisp in that case.

Katherine is right about bottom watering - many use it and sometimes it could be even better than top watering. Making sure that plant doesn't sit in excess water is important regardless if you water from top or bottom.

I am not sure what Shannon refers to as cactus sand, but try not to use sand in new mix as it is usually very fine and interferes with drainage. There is coarse sand available (maybe that's what Shannon means) but ppl usually get just regular sand and that is not good. Most of us do not use sand at all.

What bugs are you trying to repel? Is the plant indoors?

No worries - you're allowed to sleep :)

Yellow and soft probably means overwatered. Crispy, shriveled and brown usually means underwatered. From the photo you posted I would guess overwatered. You didn't necessarily do anything wrong with it...you never know how it was treated prior to purchase, and sometimes the poor treatment takes time to show. It may lose a few more leaves in similar fashion.

I've never used essential oils and seaweed as a pest repellant so I can't comment on that.

Let us know how the repotting goes!

Looks like a pretty healthy Echeveria puldonis

Yes palmbob, I was thinking the same. All above advice is good, but it looks great and it's pretty normal for one or two of the large bottom leaves to be "on their way out", even if your conditions are all perfect. Enjoy! Oh, I forgot to say about the oil in the spray...oils can destroy the farina on echeveria, farina is the white powdery coating that is so lovely and crucial for the health of it. Be careful, powdery plants can be harmed by pesticide that is oil based, even though the label might say it works om"all plants".

will the farina come back naturally?)

Thank you everyone for your advice and help! Sorry again it takes me a while to get back bc of work etc.

I'm hoping the leafs dying is of natural causes because only a day has passed and the leafs completely dead and now another leaf is doing the same they are bottom leafs but I didn't expect such rapid leaf death.

I reported him in 50% cactus 50% perlite soil and I got off as much of the oil soil as I could & the roots all looked healthy so I just put him straight into the pot it seems to be going okay

& thank you for the advice about the oils after testing it on a small patch I did notice it removed the farina so decided against it

in regards to the pests I keep it inside but next to a window that doesn't ever get shut so I'm afraid bugs will come in from outside and make homes in him.

As far I know, the farina will not come back once removed. I'm assuming not all bugs would be terrible for it, considering some people keeps theirs outdoors. I don't know ow much about preventing pests as I keep mine next to a screened window, haven't had any problems yet with pests. You seem to be taking all the right precautions, only good care and time will tell the fate of this little guy. Best of luck!

It isn't possible and probably not wise to try to eliminate every single bug...there are many beneficials out there too. Rather than using any preventative sprays, one should make sure plants are healthy: they should have excellent drainage, good light exposure and good air circulation.

Farina doesn't come back after it was rubbed off. It is there for a reason, which may not be as crucial if plant is growing indoors; but it is perhaps unsightly. Sometimes it is difficult to handle plants without touching leaves, just try to avoid it if possible. Outside, which is better for the plants to be if possible, it is more important - but plant still shouldn't die :)

It is normal for oldest leaves to dry up, shrivel and fall off. But aging leaf and water logged leaf are 2 different things, they also look different (I am not saying your plant is waterlogged, you can tell by touching it). How did the one that fell off already looked? And having another one doing same thing doesn't sound right - but plant could be also recovering from a transplanting. So do not panic, just watch it. It should really recuperate within next few days. And having it in better draining mix helps too. This one is outside - got rained on yesterday. I is in very gritty mix:

I agree with Rina, don't panic yet. I think mine lost one or two leaves when I repotted it after purchasing it; it may have been over watered when I first bought it too. However, I have found that my plants (which is in the same mix as yours) adapted pretty quickly to being repotted. Since losing those initial leaves I think it has only lost one other leaf since I got it in late April/early May.

Mine initially had very little farina, but you can see that newer leaves have grown with it on. (You can also see two injured leaves from where I dropped my grow light on it.)

That leaf is just drying out normaly. You can see that by the shape of the leaf which gets concave and thinner and thinner, until it gets paper thin and fall off

There is nothing wrong with the echeveria in the first post :)

With regards to that thin layer of power or "farina" as you called it, as already said, it doesn't come back.

The only reason for that - I think - is to keep the plant hydrophobic and the water drops just slides off the leaf and don't get accumulated. When you touch it, that layer is removed and water sticks to the leaf.