First: They have not found a cure for common cold/flu. So do not expect those pesticide fungicides eradicate garden plant ills. Second: To upload pictures you have to go to some image deposit sites. I work with photobucketdotcom.It is free membership. You upload pictures from your computer over there in you album. Then get an "HTML" link of it (paste it to a blank page on say word pad, label it for yourself..) Come here write a post and embed the "html" code(s) into your text. Here I just did for an example: When review your post, the image(s) should appear there even before submitting. ...Then go ahead and submit your message.

Thank you, thank you -- all of you. I am going to try to post some pics I took today. I am hoping they will be more revealing. Sorry that last one is so blurry. Berndoodles, thanks for the pics of leaf hopper damage. I think I certainly have that, don't you (referring to the pic with the lovely bugs)? I also found some webbing, so I think maybe I have spider mites. Oh, joy! And I also think I have powdery mildew. I would love anyone's advice. I sure wish I had a flatbed scanner. My daughter has one, but she is out of town. And I wouldn't mind if we had a Bug Man out here in Colorado. However, I took samples to my local nursery and the very nice rose lady there confirmed that I have several separate problems. She thought that the drooping rosebuds were caused by thrips and told me to go home and cut all of those drooping buds off and dispose of them. She thought I had powdery mildew, too, and also spider mites. She advised that I use Bayer All-in-One spray, so I bought that, but after reading the instructions, I decided to try Neem Oil because the instructions said not to use when bees are active, and they are very active on Ballerina, at least during the day, but maybe I could use it at night. I sprayed yesterday very thoroughly with Neem oil and will repeat in 7 days. However, since my roses are so badly infected, and with multiple buggies or whatever, maybe I will have to go toxic. Another problem with me using a toxic spray is I have large pots of herbs close to Ballerina, in fact right beside it. I think I could cover the pots with black trash bags or something. But I also have black raspberries whose vines are kind of intermingled with one of my New Dawn climbers. I'm not sure if I can cover all of them enough. Maybe if I used a hand sprayer rather than a hose-end sprayer it would be easier. So what do you think? Thanks again. Marlene

Before I offer a bit of info, let me mention that when posting you would better help folks to assist you if you add your zone & geographic area (city or town would be good, along with the state, of course). Your "My Page" listing of "United States" is of no help whatsoever. Don't worry, we will not stalk you. :-) It's powdery mildew on the cucurbits in the first two photos. This has been of epidemic proportions in a large part of the Midwest, in my garden and from what I hear from friends and correspondents in MI, PA and here in OH. Looks like some sort of leaf miners in the last couple pictures, and blight on the tomatoes. Check the links in this earier GW post regarding tomato troubles, linked below. As for the powdery mildew, here is some info from Ohio State: POWDERY MILDEW DISEASES. Many plants are affected by powdery mildew diseases, with different powdery mildew fungi causing the disease on different plants. The most familiar way to recognize powdery mildew diseases is the actual "sign" of the powdery mildew fungus growing on the upper leaf surface. This powdery growth is a combination of asexual spores of powdery mildew fungi in combination with threadlike strands of the fungus called hyphae. The mass of this powdery mildew fungal tissue is visible to the naked eye, but individual spores and fungal hyphae are not; these forms of the fungus, capable of causing infection, are microscopic in size. One of the overwintering forms of the fungus are dark-colored fruiting bodies know as cleistothecia, that are visible as small round objects on leaves, resembling grains of pepper. "Symptoms" (effects on plants from infections) of powdery mildew diseases are sometimes not recognized as being caused by powdery mildew fungi. On a plant like lilac, often symptoms are not apparent - all you see is the powdery white sign of the pathogen. Control involves improving air movement and reducing high relative humidity, to the extent possible, with judicious pruning and plant siting and use of powdery-mildew resistant varieties when available. Also recognize that in many cases the disease causes little harm to plant health, though fungicides may be used when necessary. Common powdery mildew fungicides include: triforine (e.g. Funginex), thiophanate-methyl (e.g. Cleary's 3336), and propiconazole (e.g. Banner). Read and follow the fungicide label carefully when applying to a particular plant. Powdery mildew fungicides can be very effective because the fungal infection by powdery mildew fungi is very superficial compared to most fungal infections, with the fungus only penetrating into the epidermal layer of cells. There are organic preventives (biofungicides) for powdery mildew, too, but as you will read, most, if not all, need to be used before the symptoms develop. See http://www.gardensalive.com/category.asp?c=15 Hope this has been helpful. Here is a link that might be useful: Identifying tomato problems

Thanks, Peter and Ig. The PM is already spreading to the acorn and butternut. I soaker hose long-watered yesterday and I pulled the gray, dead PM leaves off and put them into the trash bin. Someone I met suggested fish emulsion feed. Of course, I cannot now locate that small green bottle of stinky liquid. The soil drains well. Weedy area and some Heritage raspberries or maybe they are wild blackberries are sprouting up here and there. It's a constant challenge. I'm tempted to experiment on the two front zucchini plants: immunox on one and "copper spray" on another. (What sort of copper spray? Any drawbacks?). The butternut squash up hill at my neighbor's isn't particularly full, but doesn't have any noticeable PW either. It rained last night and this morning, so that should help. With no rain or moisture, how could any Epsoma or 10-10-10 break down to get to the plants? Question: if overhead watering contributes to Powdery Mildew, PM, then what about rainfall? Is rainfall any different than overhead watering (assuming minimal back spash of soil onto leaves)?