need help with google
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Getting Started with Vegetable Gardening
Comments (14)Hi, NaturalBeauty Square Foot Gardening is a good choice to start, in that it has you start small. My experience is that after one season of a 4ft by 4ft garden bed, you either want to quit or you want a much bigger garden. 60 Minutes Gardening, by Jeff Ball is also good, and gets into 4-season gardening, which you can seriously consider in Zone 7. Right now you should be preparing your in-ground beds for next spring, which comes sooner than you think in Zone 7! But you can also grow cool-weather plants right now. I would suggest a couple of big pots/planters, something on the lines of 20-qt volume or more. I have 2 28-qt pots on either side of my (south-facing) front door that are planted with cherry tomato plants in the summer (the toms generally get eaten on the front porch by my 10-yo twins). As the summer ends, I put in lettuce transplants and pansies, which generally supply salads (pansy leaves and flowers are good salad additions) until Thanksgiving. And that's in Zone 5! So, if you have a knowledgeable nursery near you, they may be selling transplants for lettuce, spinach, early cabbage (early=short time to harvest, say 60 days), kale, maybe broccoli and cauliflower. All of those are cool-weather lovers, and will cruise right past early frosts without withering into the ground like heat-loving tomatoes and squash. Use Square-Foot suggestions for spacing plants in the large planters. You can also plant a few radish seeds between the greens for a harvest in less than 30 days. If you like turnips, try direct sowing them between the greens, too, but they take a bit longer. If a hard freeze threatens, or snow or ice, put a little garden fleece cover over the pot(s) and uncover when the weather warms up again. I have had pansies last all winter (and carrots, but they should have been planted last month) treated this way. In Zone 7, plan on planting your peas (we like sugar snaps and snow peas, it seems like you just throw away too much good stuff with shelling peas) and potatoes in early February, or when experienced gardeners do in your area (the hard part is linking up with those experienced gardeners, I know). At the same time, plant your first seeding of spring cool-weather plants--radishes, carrots, beets, lettuce, spinach, etc. As you gain experience, you will find that some plants that we don't usually let go to seed (oh, yeah, that would include almost all of the cool-weather greens), if we DO let them go to seed ;-) those seeds sprout and start growing WAY EARLIER than you think garden plants will start in the spring. Go with it and you'll get nice early harvests, too. Square Foot Gardening stresses that you aren't going to eat 40 heads of lettuce in one week when a full garden row of lettuce matures at one time. So in the late winter and early spring when you start planting the cool weather plants, plant a week's worth of salad in several square feet of your new garden bed -- maybe 4 heads of lettuce (I would plant one red head, one loose leaf, one romain, etc), one square of radishes and carrots, one square of spinach, and so on. The next week plant another week's worth of salad. Oh, and one cabbage each week. Or a broccoli. After you plant, cover your garden with garden fleece to keep bugs out, even before the plants are up. It also keeps moisture in (for those of us in dry climates) and keeps birds from eating your seeds or new sprouts. I live in Zone 5, and our last hard freeze is in early April, last frost is early May. We traditionally plant warm-weather plants (tomatoes, squash, corn, etc) on Memorial Day, although I now start direct seeding before May 1 and transplanting seedlings before Memorial Day weekend (with garden fleece, or sometimes Wall-o-Waters for protection). To find out YOUR last freeze/frost, try the link (oops, it was blocked! Google last frost and look for one that will let you enter your zip code). It will get you close. But back to cool-weather gardening. Try it, it is great! The weeds don't grow as fast in the winter, I have to water less (but in my climate I DO have to water), and my kids and I can eat something from the garden all year around, EVEN IN ZONE 5! We have one bed on the south side of the house (that happens to be in the front yard, a former herb garden) that we call our winter garden. It is now planted with lettuce, spinach, beets (we eat the greens as well as the roots), carrots (I forgot radishes!), and kale, and is growing in the open. In early October I will put a low tunnel over it (poly pipe and a plastic drop cloth), leaving it open on the ends except when there will be a night below say 25 F. In mid November we'll probably harvest the last of the lettuce before it freezes, and I'll put some garden fleece right on top of the remaining plants in the tunnel. For the rest of the winter I'll open the tunnel on sunny days (desert southwest, most days are sunny and a sunny day in the 30s will cook plants in a garden tunnel) and occasionally harvest some spinach, radishes, kale, etc. February is our month for carrots, for some reason, and I scatter some more seeds for lettuce and spinach at that time. Mid-march I uncover the bed, partly because our spring winds would uncover it anyway, and partly because the plants can mostly take care of themselves again by then. Good luck, have fun, and think outside of the seasons! Catherine...See Moredoes Google help you in the kitchen?
Comments (15)"------As I was melting the butter for the bread recipe, my microwave started arcing terribly. I couldn't figure out why, so I asked Google. It linked me to a forum where someone else posted they had the same problem. One of the responses said that microwaves don't like small amounts of food (I was trying to melt 2 teaspoons), so to place a glass of water in with the butter and it would stop the problem. Well, I did, and it did! ------" Some what off-topic: Re. microwave oven and oil. 1. Butter may contain water. Microwave-ing butter stratifies the fat and water, and the hot butter can start frying the water and splatter all over inside. 2. Be careful with microwave-ing oil in plastic containers. Oil is much hotter than water and can melt some "microwaveable" plastics. 3. There is a microwave guide (window) where the microwave power comes out from the cavity magnetron, this window is typically covered with a sheet of non-conductive mica. Over time, depending on your cooking habits, food stuff can collect on the mica and carbonize by the microwave, and carbon is a good electrical conductor, sparks may fly and the mica window can be destroyed. Clean the mica once in a while. dcarch...See MoreGoogle Home add-ons, what do we need?
Comments (0)Santa is bringing us and our adult kids a Google Home. Now help me with what else I need to buy to use with it. Sources for these things? Thanks!...See MoreNeed help with Google Sheets App
Comments (4)This is like asking "where did I leave my door key?". I don't think there's any way to help from afar. The good news is that if this spreadsheet was an analysis of a checking account, nothing was really lost except the time spent doing the spreadsheet. The information is still available from the bank, however that's accessed. An easy way to replicate the spreadsheet analysis would be to download the transactions from the bank's website. Most every bank site has this feature, to download a file of account transactions that can easily read by a spreadsheet program. Easier to move around, reformat and structure transactions already in the spreadsheet than to input each transaction manually. I also agree that using a program like Libre Office is probably a better way to do it. The more important a file is, the more places a backup/duplicate copy should be kept. For my really important files, I have them in at least 4 physically different places, including a copy in a bank vault. Less important, 3. SD cards and thumb drives are cheap insurance. Free programs can automate the backup task. Good luck....See More- 8 years ago
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paulsmth2Original Author