You are going to want more than 32" for the toilet. 36" is standard (and perhaps even code in some areas???? Not here in Maine but I heard people saying that on other forums...) We have 34" and it feels fine but I dont think I'd want to go much tighter. You could solve that simply by flipping the closet and shower. So, have your shower -rotated 90 degrees and witha glass end wall- at the end of the tub (which is a nice setup you can see in many bathrooms, the tub deck can actually protrude under the shower glass wall and be a ledge or seat in the shower). Then the passageway moves to the left, and you can steal a bit of space from the other closet for the toilet. Either that of have a shorter vanity. 48" isn't a size I'd fight for. It's too short for a double vanity, really (unless you're using one of the new two-faucet 'trough" styles) so why not go down to 42" and have a better toilet area? For resale, though, you should consider a double vanity. Some people I guess expert truly huge ones, like at least 5+' long. But you CAN get smaller ones, Ikea has some great ones for tight spaces. But if you're not selling anytime soon, do what YOU like!! (But I still think you'll want more toilet space...)

Lovely! I like the classic white tile and porcelain and how you used furniture pieces in the bathroom. I love that the storage at the end of the tub has pull-outs that can be reached from the toilet. Your custom sink and backsplash and counter are unique and beautiful. Yours may be the first bathroom sink I have seen in which a small or medium dog could be washed! That is a good thing! I showed your pictures to my DH because I am thinking of classic tiled walls with a chair rail for when we redo our bath in a couple of years. He liked it! I was expecting him to say, "too old fashioned." He did not, he said it looked nice. From him, nice is a compliment. He even liked your rows of listello. I was just at the Tile Shop's site the other day looking at the Hampton tiles because someone was selling some on Craigslist. I am hoping to do as you did and get what I can cheaper there, and fill in the rest from the store. I can see that you worked very hard to secure all of your materials - and then cut the floor tiles to size and culled the Hampton tiles, too! You succeeded very well in getting the look you wanted while saving money along the way. Congratulations, and thank you for the pictures and great detail and supply list.

Like pal said you could make it a wet room. You could look for pictures of bathrooms on boats for inspiration. When I did college visits with my daughter, one of our hotel rooms had a tiny bathroom. (Kellogg Center at Michigan State, if by any chance you happen to live near there.) I wish I hadn't deleted the pics I took but I'll try to describe... front left corner was the door; back left corner was sink; back right corner was toilet. The shower was in the front right corner with a ceiling mounted shower head. There was a ceiling mounted track for a shower curtain and a drain in that area. When the curtain was open it was not at all in the way and the shower floor space just became part of the room. (There was no curb or step around the shower it was just one continuous floor in the bathroom.) There was a teak mat in front of the sink in case the whole floor got wet. I don't remember but I'm sure the floor had to be slightly sloped toward the drain. I wouldn't want it as my only bathroom but it certainly worked for our short term use and I think would work OK for occasional use. Your layout above would not work with a walled shower because, as mentioned, you wouldn't have room to get to the toilet. But with a ceiling mounted shower head (so it sprays down, not out toward the room) and a ceiling mounted track for a shower curtain that you could push aside, it *might* work. Obviously the floor would need to slope toward a drain under the shower head.

We are in the midst of a remodel and the framers have already started!! We have an existing bathroom (approx. 5x8) for which we are opening a doorway for direct access to a bedroom. We want to retain access to this bathroom from the hallway, so we are installing a pocket door. It is an older home and I have a 32" x 68" door that matches the existing doors to use for the pocket door. It is heavy, solid wood. The contractor is going to use Johnson Hardware for the framing (am waiting on more detail for the hardware). It is being installed in 2"x 4" pocket (no room for anything larger). This is our forever home, so we would like for everything to last for 30 more years :-). Some questions: 1. As mentioned, the door is heavy. I read on a forum somewhere that a contractor had used the Johnson Hardware for the framing, but had used the glides on the bottom from Hafele. Has anyone else tried this or have any suggestions? 2. I'm not certain as to how smoothly/easily the door will glide once installed. We have two other pocket doors to the house, but they are over 50 years old and take a small amount of effort to pull closed. This will be my daughters bathroom and she is 8. Should I install soft close on either end of the pocket door (wondering about little fingers getting smushed or door closing into the pocket too quickly)? Has anyone used these? I've seen the videos and not sure it would be more frustrating for kids to have the soft close. 3. Instead of using the pulls on the 1 3/8" side of the door, has anyone ever installed a bar handle for a privacy/bathroom door on the "outside" of the door, or would this be too odd (our house is more traditional than modern)? I thought this would be easier for kids to operate...but I can't find any pics online except for exterior or non-privacy doors. I did find the picture below...not sure I've posted it correctly from Houzz. The door would also need a lock...see question 4 below. <div><a href='https://www.houzz.com/photos/gb-honed-range-projects-contemporary-bathroom-brisbane-phvw-vp~10854162' target='_blank'><img src='http://st.hzcdn.com/simgs/50112acb03431552_3-4391/contemporary-bathroom.jpg' alt='GB Honed Range Projects' border=0 width='214' height='320' nopin='nopin' /></a></div><div style='color:#444;'><small><a style="text-decoration:none;color:#444;" href="http://www.houzz.com/pro/australmasonry/austral-masonry" target="_blank">Photo by Austral Masonry</a> - <a style="text-decoration:none;color:#444;" href="https://www.houzz.com/photos/contemporary-bathroom-ideas-phbr1-bp~t_712~s_2103" target="_blank">More contemporary bathroom ideas</a></small></div> 4. Because the door has been used as a swing door, there is a round hole where the knob would be. I understand that there are blanks that can be used to fill the hole and be sanded and painted. I anticipate that most of the time the door will be closed to the hallway - so very visible. Should I use a round privacy lock for the door (I was looking at the Linnea line) to use instead of trying to fill the hole? Would this look strange with a bar handle as mentioned above? 5. Other option could be to flip the door around so that the hole side is the side that recedes into the pocket wall (though plug would still be visible) and install a mortise kit like the Emtek and forgo the bar handle altogether. 5. Because this is a privacy door, I'm having the frame of the door jamb have a "lip" on both sides that the pocket door will slide into to lock so that there is no slight crack at the opening...no question but is there anything else we may not have thought of? Any advice would be MUCH appreciated!