"...how fast they grow..." As with any other plant, conditions greatly influence how fast a plant will grow. Here in TN, and with good soil and plenty of water, mine grew at almost 10" per year until it got around 8'. It seems to have slowed down a lot after that. "...what (if anything) I can do to make them grow faster (lots of water, fertilizer?)" Providing sufficient water and fertilizer, if these are missing, would encourage better potential growth. However, too much of a good thing is often bad and can lead to unhealthy plants. A lanky sky pencil holly might just flop over and turn into a splayed out weeping holly. "...I need to know how much water they need as I will have to provide it." The amount of water they need will depend on the circumstances. You need to test your soil down at root level to find out how your soil drains. Your hollies will appreciate always having a little moisture down at root level, but the soil's surface should be allowed to begin drying in between waterings. Longer (deeper), less frequent watering is much better than shorter (quick), frequent watering. There's a popular description that applies to many plants..."likes light, well-drained, moist soil" (basically these plants appreciate ideal conditions, even though they don't require these conditions to survive). "...should I just scope out my local nurseries when they open?" For these, I'd definitely try to source locally. It would save you a bundle in shipping and allow you to hand select the best plants. These are very common around here and can be found at many of the big-box type stores. "...I am trying to decide if I should splurge and buy bigger plants, or save some money and buy small if they are going to grow fairly fast." ...or you could go somewhere in the middle and settle for a little instant gratification tempered with a little cost savings, ease of planting, and less transplant shock. Really big stock will probably not grow much for quite a while and is much more likely to suffer from transplant shock and/or a poorly formed root system. Smaller plants can hit the ground running (or suffer less transplant shock), but will also be little for a while. You really have to figure out what's more important to you. And, if you decide on larger stock, be prepared for a lot more work to start with (including possibly addressing major root system problems during planting).

In the Poconos, rhododendrons will be hardier for you than evergreen azaleas. Deciduous azaleas are hardy also. The plants are usually rated as to their height after 10 years. Low is 3', Medium is 4-5', and 6' or more is tall. There is a good website where you can look them up to see their height and their hardiness. You want a hardiness of at least -15F and -20F to -25F is better. Also, since you get late frosts, I would not select an early blooming plant. Late frosts will kill the flowers. Select a plant that is mid-season or late blooming. Now is too early to buy plants that are blooming. The frosts we are getting will kill the flowers. Wait until around May 15 and check the weather forcast. The ones that are blooming will have their flowers killed by late frosts. Azaleas give a mass of color, but after the flowers fade, the plant is not as attractive as a rhododendron. Rhododendrons have larger flowers that are spectacular close up and make an excellent shrub when they are not in bloom. The nursery prices are good. The larger plants will always be a year or two ahead of the smaller plants. Locally grown plants do best. The big box plants were grown in a warmer climate and will struggle for a couple years. For some suggestions on plants check the ones listed for Central PA in the following list: Proven Performers Here is a link that might be useful: Plant Data (select either Rhododendrons or Azaleas)

Thanks for the feedback everyone. The seedlings haven't gotten a ton of direct sunlight because it's been a little dark lately with all the rain but they aren't really in the shade either. I guess I'll have to do some soil testing for acidity. Yesterday I finally noticed some baby leaves forming on a couple of them so I'll give them awhile longer until I write them off completely.

If most of the roots died, you should cut those rotting ones away to prevent spread. Then once you see what kind of healthy roots you're working with, you can decide an appropriate size pot. Even plants on the brink of death at the hands of humans will still try to live, so signs of new growth could mean one of two things: a) you've fixed your over watering problem and the plant is getting better Or b) the overwatering problem has gotten worse and the plant is desperately trying to stay alive despite our best efforts to kill it. Lol.