You had a lively discussion last year, didn't you? I have a lower target for phorphorus than Morph had and I calculate that you're short on phosphate by about 1.25 lb/k. But instead of starter fertilizer, I suggest Milorganite. The main problem with alkaline soils is that phosphorus binds up quickly with calcium and is then not available to the plant. With Milorganite the phosphorus will be released gradually as organisms die. You will also get chelated iron. You're ok on potassium. So do your early fall fertilization with Milorganite. Use 20 lb/k to get 1 lb/k nitrogen and 0.8 lb.k phorphorus. I don't see what kind of grass you have (KBG, rye, fescue?), only that you're in the Midwest. How much nitrogen a year do you normally do? In general, when the soil is warm (and microbes are active), use an organic fertilizer that has some phosphorus (most do) and use synthetic when you're fertilizing when the soil is cold, like the late fall fertilization. I have not heard that cracked corn will lower pH. Sulfur is what lowers pH and it is not practical to try to lower pH over a yard with sulfur. You could use elemental sulfur to lower pH for a flower bed or planting hole. For times you use synthetic fertilizer, look for ammonium sulfate. It is the most acidifying fertilizer. Be sure to water it in. Don't worry too much about your pH. Grass will grow in alkaline soil.

I find it curious that your pH would go up so much in one year, almost 10 times more alkaline. I don't know if there might be a testing error somewhere. If Ridgerunner comes by, he might have some thoughts. He's not interpreting Logan tests but he might read the thread. If your soil fizzes if you add vinegar to some in a saucer, you probably have calcareous soil and should request the ammonium acetate test for base cations the next time you get a soil test. That would give a more accurate number for calcium. Would calcareous soil affect the pH measurement? You could call Logan and ask.

"Would calcareous soil affect the pH measurement?"

I'm by no means an expert in the matter but I recently reviewed a calcareous soil AA test next to a standard one (both Logan Labs) and the PH was the same in both, only the cation values differed.

Agreed that's quite a jump in alkalinity in just a year, where the heck did that extra calcium come from?

I agree, I am concerned about the pH jump. I actually believe I get my water from the same source Wors (we live close to each other) gets his from that he posted about here: [https://www.houzz.com/discussions/iowa-soil-test-results-help-year-2-dsvw-vd~4720547[(https://www.houzz.com/discussions/iowa-soil-test-results-help-year-2-dsvw-vd~4720547)

Also to answer some of beckyinrichmond's questions:

1. My grass type is mostly KBG, but definitely has fesuce and rye blended in there. This a lawn I acquired and I would not be able to say the exact varieties. To be more specific on the region I am in central Iowa.

2. As for the cracked corn, I actually was just reading on organic fertilizers to use that I can find locally and I stumbled across a few posts (like this one: http://forums.gardenweb.com/discussions/3149280/gypsumcracked-cornalfalfa-strawchicago-especially) that mention cracked corn is acidic. I then connected that with this soil test in hopes I could fertilizer and correct pH in one go.

3. For nitrogen I am aiming for on track for ~4 lbs/k with my current plan. I have applied starter 2x before this soil test. Then just this week I put down Milorganite and tried adding some pine/alfalfa pellets (40lbs of each across my 10k sq ft yard) for a little more nitrogen and moisture help with the terrible heat we are forecasted for.

All fertilizers are somewhat acidic. Ammonium sulfate is the most acidic of the synthetic fertilizers. None are likely to move your pH very much because your soil is highly buffered (at least the test says it is with a CEC up in the 20s). Cracked corn is a good organic fertilizer so use it if you like, but don't expect a pH drop. I am concerned about all this fertilizer in the summer! Milorganite and alfalfa now after two apps of starter earlier. Most of your fertilization should be in the fall. Next year plan to do 1 lb/k of N in late spring and the other 3 lb/k in the fall. Milorganite and alfalfa count as fertilizer. There is a discussion about nitrogen in the summer going on in at thelawnforumcom if you want to read more about it. I posted some papers on root decline and summer stress. It's in the thread on Milorganite and July 4.

The starter was on the recommendation from Morpheus last year to do first thing this year for phosphorus. He also commented how that is not normal and was only to get the phosphorus up quicker.

I will definitely check out the other site since I was only doing that app to follow the Milorganite recommendation for the July 4th. (I normally do as you described with aiming mostly for fall apps, only this year have I done this summer app)

Also one last question is 4lbs a good rate to aim for?

Thanks again for all the help and info!

KBG likes 3-5 lb/k of N a year. So 4 lb/k is a good target. I wonder if the pH last year was in error. Your calcium and magnesium were high last year and I would have expected a higher pH then.

That is also a possibility since I don't know of anything besides the pH from irrigation water that would sway my pH. I will continue your plan you mentioned above and retest again next year. Hopefully I start to see more consistent numbers.

If Ridgerunner comes by, he might have some thoughts.

I didn't take time to read the other thread but I did look at the prior test results.

As Becky pointed out, that's quite a raise in pH. Nothing that was added should create that type of rise. Nearly all amendments (other than lime) are either acidifying like "acidic" salts or, at most slightly basic salts. Irrigation with the high pH water would certainly contribute, but I wouldn't expect a ten-fold increase in a year.

Besides the rise in Ca and Mg, which you would expect with a higher pH
the only other significant increases were in K, S and Na. K and S are a
result of the potassium sulfate addition. ( Possible caveat?: our resident chemical engineer might be able to determine the likelihood of the creation of and pH impact of KOH, as that is above my pay grade.) The rise in Na could be an indication of another contributor to higher pH (e.g. Sodium carbonate, bicarbonate, NaOH, or KOH- soap residue?). Water could be the source, but 10X in one year?

Most likely the "cause" is either sampling error or a lab error.

You can probably surmise which one I'm beginning to suspect.

Edit: FYI, your sodium soil levels are NOT at a detrimental level (in the >3-5% range). I only point out the increase as a possible indicator of a source for higher pH, as unlikely as I personally think that is.