The last two fertilizers used were a 10-0-20 (or similar ratio) in the fall, and in the summer I think it was a 15-0-15 (or similar ratio). In early summer I used a slow release nitrogen. I never did add anything to adjust PH and was advised not to when the lawn was installed. (Actually, the only thing I was told was to water to establish and the lawn will take care of itself. Yes I knew that couldn't be true but it would be nice.) I have been watering twice a week during the growing season (Duration varies by zone, but the average would be about an hour. The problem with irrigation is that the zones cover the shrubs and flowers as well as the lawn, so the plants are beaten down by the sun during the summer and can't go as long as the lawn without water. I have to redo my drip irrigation to allow for separate watering, but a lightning strike took out my controllers and they need to be replaced.) Mowing height has been about two inches, but to be honest, the lawn did not grow very much last year. I just scarified the lawn this past weekend and got my soil sample to get tested. The one area shade is a factor is directly adjacent to the house on the northern side of the property. (I will likely have to fight with that area forever, but I am more concerned with the rest of the lawn.) Other than that there is enough daily sun. The areas that have mostly died out are actually in direct sun. Part of the problem is fungus, and part is from pests. I have noticed (last summer) browning of the leaf blades in the center of the front lawn where the grade has a bit of a low spot. I did use a systemic fungicide last year, but I think I will have to spot treat as well this year. Weeds have taken over in the worst areas. Dollar weed has returned to the same spots that had them in the past, Spurge has choked out the lawn a bit along the road and driveway, and I have greenbelt on all sides. I have a barrier of mulch along the rear portion of the yard, so the weeds are not as bad there. The pre-emergent from last year did little to stop the warm weather weeds, and since I did not use one for the winter, I am dealing with them now. My issue last year is that the weeds took over after the temps were well into the 90's and I couldn't treat them because I didn't want to do more harm to the lawn. As for pests, I have seen grubs, mole cricket tunnels, grass hoppers, spittle bugs, a few billbugs, and lets face it, its Florida, just about everything else! I use Talstar twice a year, and I am planning to treat for grubs a few times as well. The lawn has not started its green up yet. I'll try to get a picture on the next cloudy day.

Sorry Mr Hall, didn't mean to step on your toes. Just thought it was important to let the OP know a cool season grass is probable not the right choice for their area. I do agree dump the Rye idea all together. For now it was the right choice to get some ground cover through the winter. Op you really have two choices; * Expensive, quick, weed-free as possible, and the best overall solution. *Inexpensive solution. The best solution is to use a Bermuda or Zoysia sod. You can do it now or later. However for that much area you are talking real big 4-digit numbers. The inexpensive solution requires putting up with weeds until 2009 season by using seed, and you have to wait until late May or early June to seed. You will have to do something because all that Rye you planted will be toast by June/July leaving you with nothing but weeds-n-dust when it dies off from the heat and dry conditions. Either way, sod or seed, you have to figure out irrigation. For an area that big you really need a built in irrigation system to even have a chance of watering an area that big, especially if seeding. Another option for you may be Buffalo grass if you do not mind a lower quality turf. You still have a water issue to get it started from seed, but once established all you have to do is mow it, and feed it once a year.

Around the first week of June, you will need to make a decision. Do you want to re-seed areas of your lawn with bermuda, or do you want to try and develop the existing bermuda without any additional seed? If you decide not to use additional bermuda seed, then you will need to re-apply a pre-emerge herbicide such as dithiopyr (Dimension) or prodiamine (Barricade). If you decide to use additional bermuda seed, then you will not be able to use a pre-emerge herbicide at the time of seeding, and you will probably have crabgrass germinating along with your bermuda. One of the mistakes many homeowners make is thinking they can control crabgrass with only one application of a pre-emerge herbicide in early spring. Then in August, they wonder why they have crabgrass. It's not their fault, they simply don't know. That's why they come to this forum looking for answers.

Congratulations you deserve and award for getting a bahia lawn started from seed. I tried doing that once and failed and swore it off. I took my truck and got 1/2 pallet of sod a couple of times and that was pretty inexpensive. The worst part was putting it down...a darn dirty job! Yep my blade needs to be sharpened too. I've been putting that off. I used the milorganite this spring but for me personally I would have my pH checked before putting down any lime. Good luck with your backyard.