How do you plan your rose garden?
vesfl (zone 5b/6a, Western NY)
6 years ago
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ingrid_vc so. CA zone 9
6 years agolast modified: 6 years agovesfl (zone 5b/6a, Western NY) thanked ingrid_vc so. CA zone 9Related Discussions
How do you plan your garden?
Comments (35)I have roughly three points of departure. I have the nature of a collector, so I have a lot of plants I want--roses, barberries, bulbs, clematis, aromatic plants, lilacs, peonies, box, shrubs and trees--as well as simply wanting a great variety of plants; and the garden design aims at finding places to put them where they'll grow well and look good. Then, I have my garden designer's nature, that wants to make a beautiful garden and looks for plants that will perform specific functions in the garden: screening; shade; an anchoring shrub or tree; a defining hedge; a protagonist plant; a middle-ground shrub; plants for interest during a particular season; plants for variety of texture and color. Actually, that's just plant selection. Planning a garden means considering paths, access for maintenance, places to sit, and places to do whatever it is you want to do in your garden: hold cookouts or picnics, have play space for the children or room for the dog to run, provide cooling shade for a hot summer or sunny places to enjoy during mild winter weather, grow vegetables or a small orchard or have a greenhouse for exotics. The third point of departure is the physical character of the garden site. How big is it; what is the soil like; when does it rain and snow and what water is available during the growing season; how much sun is there; what is the annual pattern of temperatures; where does the wind blow from and what kind of weather does it bring; where are the buildings, trees, rocks, and other large, striking, and more or less permanent features located; how is physical access to the garden; is it flat or steep? Oh, yes, and I forgot budget--how much money do you have to spend?--and legal considerations, such as, possibly, restrictions on fence and hedge heights and restrictions on land use. So, I would say my working method looks a bit like this: I have plants I want to grow, and I can acquire those plants (that is, they're available and I can afford them) and I've decided that I probably can grow them in the conditions I have. I have a written or mental list of the plants I want. I study my site, looking at soil, shade and sun, drainage, position of buildings and trees; and thinking about how a plant of such and such dimensions will look here. Or I approach the problem from the opposite direction, that here is a spot that requires a plant or plants of such and such characteristics, and what is there on my plant list that will work? If there isn't anything, I look for a plant that will work and add it to the list, or I rethink the design. One of the drawbacks of paper plans is that gardens are three dimensional and paper is flat: this is something to keep in mind. Still, paper is useful if you can get a good scale drawing of your site. I've never learned to sketch so as to be able to create a picture of the resulting three-dimensional project I'm working out, and have to design from mental images. I tend to plan only to the minimally necessary extent. When we were planning the central portion of the big garden, an area of perhaps a quarter of an acre, I got my husband, who was a surveyor in his youth, to draw a plan of the current garden, size and outline and main features. I drew in the principal paths/walks, all of them large enough to be in scale with the garden, to provide open space and vistas and to allow a tractor access to all the garden. I placed the trees, drew in shrubs (not specifying the kind of shrub), drew the smaller paths, and put notes about the kinds of plants I wanted in different zones of the garden, with the character of the plantings varying in the different zones: cold-hardy plants facing east, from where the cold weather comes; more tender plants facing west and south, and shielded by trees and shrubs from cold winds. This was enough for us to begin planting. Placing shrubs, herbaceous plants, bulbs, etc. together comes later: I work out small compositions if I have time and know my plants well enough; at the minimum I try to avoid gross aesthetic errors. One of my problems is that most of the plants I garden with are unfamiliar to me when I first get them, and it's just about impossible to get a garden plan right if you don't know how your plants are going to look and behave. I try to keep my errors on a small enough scale that I can correct them, at least. I know I've written a lot; I hope some of this is useful. Melissa...See MoreWhat do you modify in your garden to continue your garden passion
Comments (43)Kim said... >My original obsession was outrageously out of hand and I loved it. [...] I'm keeping to the level area as much as possible. Weeding that slope is offensive enough without having to traipse up and down, sliding on every other step, to maintain anything down there. I know I will resent the ones which go on the slope and will eventually allow them to go the way of the Dodo, so I'm choosing to rid myself of them, instead. That's a LOT of roses, quite a few of which are seedlings either generated through my obsession or those shared with me by other "obsessives", but that is what it is going to take to keep this "fun", doable and prevent the water requirements from eating me out of house, home and desire. Weeding through them to maintain those which are just happier to be here with me and those which are endangered, has been a real chore. Now, if there was a ton of level land with high ground water. Hi Kim, Back in the Dark Ages we lived in California in just the sort of spot you are conjuring up as a high ground water fix. But native trees really like spots like that too... and our house had lots of shade, too much shade for most roses. Still, we wouldn't have dreamed of cutting down a tree. We didn't own the house, we like trees, and anyway, removing a tree was illegal without a good reason for a permit where we lived (a Monarch Butterfly preserve). Anyway, we were relative youngsters at the time and didn't know just how wet that property was until our vegetable garden was swimming in water during the winter months. It was fine, fine black silty sand that held on to the water pretty well too. Your post made me think about what we'd do if confronted with your lack of water problems back in California again. What you're doing makes a lot of sense. But I also am wondering whether a bank full of Renaes rambling around might not survive and also keep the weeds down once they proliferated and established themselves? They might take over the other remaining roses, but if you weren't still trying hard to keep those... A bunch of Renaes might not require so much watering once established? I don't think a big crowd of them would look bad at all, depending on personal tastes, of course. In fact, I prefer that kind of look. We've done that crowded thing in a pretty good sized area with azaleas and rhododendrons here; they all grow together and if there's a weed under there somewhere, well, you can't easily penetrate to find or see it. Once in awhile there's a tree sneaking in that will have to be pulled up, but basically it's too shady under all the plant thickness for most weeds to grow. And I adore the looks of those crowded plants! No, we don't have big problems with fungal diseases, even with the crowd. Maybe fewer than average problems, though phytopthera wilt sometimes does require some cutting back of rhododendron limbs. You know a big problem with azaleas and rhododendrons is that they aren't drought tolerant. Well, we have lost huge numbers since our drought problems began big time here around 2001. It's been wonderfully rainy most of the time during the last couple of years, but the next drought period is probably just around the corner... and if we lose some more azaleas and rhododendrons then, well, I'm thinking of trying to establish some Renaes and Annie Laurie McDowells in their place in the relatively sunnier spots... along with some more camellias, which are drought tolerant after the first year. (Though blooming is less than ideal if August and September are dry.) We lost our Annie Laurie McDowell to Rose Rosette Disease last year, but I am figuring that if it's anything like our Renae here, well, it's as no-care, no-worry a plant as any other plant of any kind we've ever had in our yard. Not a touch of blackspot or any other disease here thus far (though that may well change just a bit as we get more shade as the sun angle changes during the fall). Anyway, I'm hoping for another Annie Laurie McDowell eventually too. Ours is a no-spray all-organic yard for everything we grow and Renae fits well into that way of doing things. I think Annie Laurie McDowell will too. I know it hurts to cut back some on what you are able to continue doing, Kim. But I keep thinking mostly about your achievements and how much you have helped so many others in what you have already contributed. Thank you! Best wishes, Mary...See MoreIf you were planning your first rose garden...
Comments (63)If you are looking at any roses, look for fragrance and disease resistance. I have Molineaux a golden yellow Austin rose that is fairly disease resistant and has a fragrance. Here is a short list of roses that have done well on LI, NY in the County Extension Demonstration garden. If you do decide to do any mail order-- try to get your order in to these companies by December/January at the latest. By the time April rolls around, many of the more popular roses have sold out already. Ordering early 'reserves your rose' and you can request when the company can send it to you-- if you have snow on the ground in April, maybe by the end of April might be better for you. Just put it in their notation area. Successful disease resistant and fragrant roses zone 7: Prairie Sunrise -- a Buck rose that is a shrub rose and apricot and apricot blend color Golden Fairy Tale-- a Kordes rose that is a hybrid tea and yellow color Winter Sunset-- a Buck rose that is a shrub rose and apricot and apricot blend color Strike It Rich -- a Weeks rose that is a grandiflora and golden yellow blushed with pink color Lavender Lassie-- a Kordes rose that is a hybrid musk and mauve and mauve blend color Easy Does It-- a Weeks rose that is a floribunda and orange pink and orange red blend color Lion's Fairy Tale-- a Kordes rose that is a floribunda and apricot and apricot blend color Julia Child-- a Weeks rose that is a floribunda and golden yellow color Gruss an Aachen-- a German introduction floribunda that is a light pink color Floral Fairy Tale-- a Kordes rose that is a floribunda and pink in color Pretty Lady-- a UK introduction floribunda that is pink in color Marie Pavie-- a French introduction polyantha that is white in color Dart's Dash-- a Netherlands introduction hybrid rugosa that is dark red in color & has great winter hips The McCartney Rose-- a Meilland rose that is a hybrid tea and medium pink in color Quietness-- a Buck rose that is a shrub and light pink in color Carefree Beauty-- a Buck rose that is a shrub & medium pink in color; designated Earth Kind Jasmina-- a Kordes rose that is a large flowered climber and pink blend in color Belinda's Dream-- a shrub rose that is medium pink in color; designated Earth Kind Frances Meilland-- a Meilland hybrid tea that is pink blend in color Cinderella's Fairy Tale-- a Kordes shrub rose that is light pink in color...See MoreDo you plan for wildlife in your garden?
Comments (28)Apparently I'm in good company with my butterfly bed that's stuffed with all their favorites and my oversize collection of bird feeders in the crabapple tree. I designed the butterfly bed specifically to attract them and so far am happy with the end result. There's still lots of space to fill in but it's getting there gradually. My folks planted with wildlife in mind before me so there are dogwoods, mock orange, lilacs & others to attract birds. There's a 40 ft. x 30 ft. area of white hydrangea growing on the southern boundary the birds use as a sanctuary. They stop off in the lilac bush on their way to/from the birdfeeders & birdbath. I've counted as many as 25 junkos in the mock orange during snowstorms, all puffed out like little gray tennis balls. Every year wrens nest in each of the three birdhouses hanging in the crabapple tree. One morning this summer I noticed my motion sensor light had come on. When I peaked through the curtains out the front window, there was a red fox stretching as tall as he could trying to raise his chin over the edge to get a drink from the birdbath. I felt so guilty, I washed out a big bowl & set it on the ground beside the birdbath for him. I kept it filled the rest of the season. No rain fell here from June-October so the critters were thirsty along with all my plants. The foxes took over a former rabbit & woodchuck burrow, made it bigger & raised 3 pups down behind my 80 ft. row of blueberry bushes. Yes, they ate all the blueberries this year. Like I said, there was a really bad drought here in southern New England. I took a few pictures through the window screen when they came out to play in the early mornings: A few lucky shots of robins enjoying the ancient plastic birdbath under the crabapple tree: I think the Cooper's hawks that nest down in the woods at the back help keep the rodent & bunny populations under control but the chipmunks can be a problem. Esme the snake makes her rounds of the flowerbeds and takes care of whatever varmints use the hosta leaves to hide under from the hawks....See Moreflowersaremusic z5 Eastern WA
6 years agovesfl (zone 5b/6a, Western NY) thanked flowersaremusic z5 Eastern WAnippstress - zone 5 Nebraska
6 years agovesfl (zone 5b/6a, Western NY) thanked nippstress - zone 5 NebraskaMelissa Northern Italy zone 8
6 years agovesfl (zone 5b/6a, Western NY) thanked Melissa Northern Italy zone 8vesfl (zone 5b/6a, Western NY)
6 years agoLynn-in-TX-Z8b- Austin Area/Hill Country
6 years agovesfl (zone 5b/6a, Western NY) thanked Lynn-in-TX-Z8b- Austin Area/Hill Countryflowersaremusic z5 Eastern WA
6 years agovesfl (zone 5b/6a, Western NY) thanked flowersaremusic z5 Eastern WALynn-in-TX-Z8b- Austin Area/Hill Country
6 years agolast modified: 6 years agovesfl (zone 5b/6a, Western NY) thanked Lynn-in-TX-Z8b- Austin Area/Hill Countryneedmoremulch
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6 years agonoseometer...(7A, SZ10, Albuquerque)
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6 years agolast modified: 6 years agovesfl (zone 5b/6a, Western NY) thanked needmoremulchnippstress - zone 5 Nebraska
6 years agovesfl (zone 5b/6a, Western NY) thanked nippstress - zone 5 NebraskaMelissa Northern Italy zone 8
6 years agovesfl (zone 5b/6a, Western NY) thanked Melissa Northern Italy zone 8Sheila z8a Rogue Valley OR
6 years agovesfl (zone 5b/6a, Western NY) thanked Sheila z8a Rogue Valley ORflowersaremusic z5 Eastern WA
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6 years agoingrid_vc so. CA zone 9
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