Till or no-till new bed?
teka2rjleffel
6 years ago
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Sheila z8a Rogue Valley OR
6 years agoteka2rjleffel
6 years agoRelated Discussions
Till or not to Till in new beds or plantings?
Comments (12)I started my garden four years ago by peeling the topsoil and removing a concrete plug that once held a clothesline. I only had 4" of topsoil over red clay of 10" then grey clay as deep as deep could be. I added a truckload of compost, sand and topsoil along with bags of leaves, various organic nutrients and till the heck out of it. Everything grew fine, but the soil still compacted quickly. I continue to add mulch, compost and a few select nutrients every year and deep tilled the second year as well. Last year, I just added compost and leaves and grass as mulch. Tilled just the top 6" or so, then more compost and mulches. This year, I am not tilling at all, just will hand turn if needed and more mulches and compost. I think every garden is slightly different. What Kimmsr says makes alot of sense, and what others says does too. Once you build up your soil, there is really no need to do anything but add compost and mulch, and it continues to thrive. I do add about a 4" layer all over from my organic containers every year as well in the early winter. I can dig down over a foot with my hands and there are thousands of nightcrawlers and redworms as well. I also leave all my roots in to breakdown on their own. Sound about right Kimm?...See MoreTo Till...or not to Till
Comments (20)I think we've visited this subject before. Utilizing raised beds will accomodate planting in soils with poor drainage, but that is far from being the "primary" reason folks plant in raised beds. Probably the biggest reason people garden in raised beds is increased productivity - one is able to double crop yields in a raised bed garden. But there lots of other reasons why these are so popular and it has nothing to do with drainage: * The growing season is extended - the soil in raised beds warms up faster in spring and retains that warmth longer in fall, increasing the harvest period. * Raised beds are easier to maintain. Intensive planting allows for less weed development and what weeds there are are easier to reach and remove. Since you don't walk on raised beds there is no chance of soil compaction, which destroys soil structure and reduces yields. * Raised beds allow for less water usage than open cropping, a huge benefit for those that garden under drought conditions or summer water restrictions. *Raised beds are a huge boon for aging gardeners or those with physical impairments that prevent bending, kneeling or heavy digging. And since raised beds are typically accessible from both sides, they are able to be tended with very lightweight handtools. * Raised beds offer the opportunity to control plantings - either by restraining overly aggressive spreaders or by placing plants beyond the reach of pests like rabbits (very easily fenced off). * Since the soil in raised beds is imported, one is more able to adjust soil for specific growing conditions than you can in open plantings. They are ideal for growing acid loving plants in areas with more base or alkaline soils, as pH in raised beds is more easily adjusted and less buffered. * In addition to offsetting the drainage issues involved with heavy or clay soils or low areas where water may accumulate, raised beds allow the possibility of planting in other less-than-ideal conditions, like where there is a preponderance of tree roots or the soil is extremely rocky or sandy. Posting a very narrow and very personal view on the reasons for utilizing raised beds is of no benefit to anyone on these forums. We all need to a bit more openminded and receptive to possibilities beyond our own narrow frame of reference....See MoreNew Beds, Dig or Till?
Comments (5)Usually, the first pass of the tiller loosens a few inches. Then a second and third pass is done to get to the full depth. I haven't personally run into a tiller that seems to get more than 6 inches deep unless the loosened area is dug out, and the tiller starts again in a large hole. And that is with the largest tiller anybody can manage to get their hands on. Another option is to price renting a backhoe. Landscapers often have smallish ones. The vegetables are probably fine with what a tiller can do. I'd personally want to go down a good 12" for the perennial plantings....See MoreCheap compost! till or no till?
Comments (36)Pettiness, sarcasm, arrogance and debasement are all relative inference made by the reader. I advocate for neither till or not. But, YES, I'm having a jab at the mindset saying "(snip)...contrary to your view and rightly or wrongly, REGARDLESS of soil condition (snip)". It would be foolish for me to infer that ALL soils react or transform based on MY actions and observations at MY location. It would be equally foolish to deny failure with no-till in some soil types. Since Lloyd brings up a good point about definitions, by "failure"(above) I mean lack of soil life, tilth and even anaerobic condition, no evidence of root penetration. This after several years of admittedly "easy" work- no till is easier than till, but requires more effort than none of the above. By "till" I mean digging, churning, rotating; displacing the soil strata from at least an inch below the surface....See Morevasue VA
6 years agoteka2rjleffel
6 years agoVaporvac Z6-OhioRiverValley
6 years agoRosylady (PNW zone 8)
6 years agostillanntn6b
6 years agokittymoonbeam
6 years agolast modified: 6 years agoSheila z8a Rogue Valley OR
6 years agorosesmi5a
6 years agoVaporvac Z6-OhioRiverValley
6 years agolast modified: 6 years ago
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