Brand new engineered hardwood floors creaking
Leah
6 years ago
last modified: 6 years ago
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Creative Tile Eastern CT
6 years agolast modified: 6 years agoUptown Floors
6 years agoRelated Discussions
Need advice with poping and creaking new hardwood flooring
Comments (6)It won't help you, but here is my comment. Gluing as well as nailing is an installation method in some parts of the country, the idea being that it helps to prevent wide width flooring from moving too much during seasonal changes. Creaking noises I can understand, but 'popping' noises usually means that the floor boards are momentarily sticking to the back of the boards and releasing; that might account for the noises you are hearing. If a urethane-type adhesive was used, then I doubt the phenomenon would be happening. There are other adhesives, such as something we call the 'drytack' types, which might create conditions that would make the noises you are hearing likely to happen. How is the groove larger than the tongue? I would think that as well would not be a good thing, as it might allow more movement at the tongue and groove meeting. Anyone else have ideas for dkriggs? Oh...BTW...Happy New Year everyone!...See MoreDifferences between traditional hardwood and engineered hardwood?
Comments (3)Wow...that's a huge question. I know it sounds simple, but it is quite complex. So complex there are entire books on the subject (both professional and lay-man). So....solid hardwood is just that. It is solid. It is the same wood cut from the same tree, from the same plank at the mill. Traditionally it is 3/4" thick. Widths vary but the classic is around 3" wide plank. A 3/4" solid hardwood can be refinish 3-4 times with a total lifespan of 60-100 years. These are either factory finished or site finished. The industry has realized that some people are too afraid of large purchases so the solid hardwood industry has come up with the idea to make their planks THINNER and thereby making them cheaper. I've seen 1/2" or even 3/8" solid hardwood. They can be refinished once...maybe twice and have a lifespan of 20 - 40 years. These thinner solid hardwoods are often factory finished (cheap, thin and fast). And that's the easy part. Engineered hardwood...where to start. First off the TOP layer is the ONLY LAYER that contains the pricey hardwood that you are paying for. Everything else is like "plywood". The body of the plank is made up of cross-hatched layers of wood (not always hardwood) that are glued together. The top layer will range from 2mm - 6mm. The ability to refinish will depend on the thickness of the top layer (known as the wear layer). You need 3mm of wood to complete a full sand and refinish - just once. So the 2mm wear layer is a "one and done" type of floor. It has a life span of roughly 20 years (though many people rip them out after 15 because they look beaten up). The 6mm wear layer in a 3/4" engineered plank that is site finished is the Holy Grail of the engineered hardwood world. They are the most expensive, the most beautiful and offer the longest life cycle of all engineered hardwoods. They are so expensive that they are MORE expensive than solid hardwood floors. Whew. There is so much more but that's the difference in a nutshell. Shaw has had some complaints. The biggest issues with wood will be humidity and indoor climate control. Ask your builder to check the heating/cooling system. Ask them detailed questions about the unit's capability to handle climate control that is REQUIRED for a hardwood floor - regardless of the presentation....See MoreEngineered Hardwood vs Hardwood vs LVP in Kitchen/Dining/Living? MDWST
Comments (19)Kim,,,it's very solid. just make sure the glue is spread to completely cover the plank. I have a few spots (like under the kitchen sink) where they missed the corner and it squeaks. They've held up great. I don't have dogs, but I have cats and have heard their nails burning rubber across the floor they go off on their tangents. I've spilled water, cleaned up their barf, spilled food, whatever, it all cleans up very well. as for dents, only if you drop something very heavy. but any wood floor will dent. I vacuum w/a Dyson, and then I use Bona wood floor cleaner on a mop. in the kitchen, i'll often take the scrubby brush and watered down Dawn to clean up spills or oil stains. no problem. no, I don't baby them. I don't wear shoes in my house though. I love my floors. just make sure on install they clean up all the glue residue. my guys were messy and lazy. had to call them back w/special glue remover and rag and go over the entire floor....See MoreCreaking in newly installed engineered hardwood flooring
Comments (6)All wood has the ability to creak. It is the PREPARATION (levelling subfloor = extra cost = extra line added to the bill of sale) that allows the wood to sit FLAT. That's item number one. No, if you did not PAY for it, you do not 'expect' it to be given to you for free. Sigh...sucks but that's the way this cookie crumbles. To be clear, a concrete subfloor levelling job CAN COST $3-$5/sf to be done PROPERLY and would add 2 days or more to a job. Did that happen in your situation? Now onto the installation instructions: the INSTALLER (dude on his knees) did an INAPPROPRAITE installation technique. Any/all warranty is now void due to 'installation error' as it is called in the business. So...Here's where you are. You have a wood floor that was improperly installed. The question becomes, WHO did YOU PAY to have it installed? Did the FLOORING COMPANY include the price of installation with your purchase (ie. you used THEIR DUDE)? Or did you HIRE YOUR OWN installer (you purchase wood from company A and then had it installed by company B)? And JUST FOR sheeps and giggles, what is the HUMIDITY in your house right now? And do you have the ability to CONTROL the humidity with a push of a button (on your HVAC system)?...See MoreCreative Tile Eastern CT
6 years agocpartist
6 years agoFeatherBee
6 years agolast modified: 6 years agoMDLN
6 years agoLeah
6 years agoCancork Floor Inc.
6 years agoFeatherBee
6 years ago
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