Hi Virginia, I grow several varites of Colocasias. I have left the Red Stem ones in a raised bed for a couple of years and they come back. I always pour a load of mulched leaves on them every fall. I dug up my babies this fall and potted them up in the unheated GH so I'm hoping to have some to trade in the Spring. I've got "Black Magic" and the "Red stems" and am going to get the burgandy and green leaf one soon. I also put a pot of "Frydek" in the GH that I will get to divide next year. I'm going to take atleast one of each and put them in one of my beds and mulch heavy to see what will happen to them. I really don't like having to take them in. I did learn something a few years ago with non-hardy amaryllis. I planted a few around a big old oak and several in one of my garden beds. The ones around the oak still come up and bloom each year. The ones in the bed, froze into a big glob of mush. So, the soil definetly stays warmer when there is a structer or tree close to the plant you want to plant. I had no idea it could make that much difference. My neighbor has one of the huge red and white Amaryllis that she planted 4 years ago in the corner where her house meets the sidewalk and this thing is huge!It had about 20 big blooms this year. I'm going to try to convience her she needs to divide it! This plant came from the florist and it is not supposed to be hardy. We've had many nights in the teens and that thing just keeps on growing in her mini tropical area close to her house. I guess all the concrete and brick act like heaters in the winter. S0, even if it's not supposed to live, if you pick the right, protected spot and add your bubble wrap, you should have some nice plants next year. OH yes, do not completely cover the plants with this like every0ne said. It will act like a stem bath on bright sunny days and you will have soup! Love to you all, Mona

Thank you so much for these ideas and the technical terms ! I wasn't even sure what to google other than 'hinge' which returns a bazillion results, lol. Yes, inboard of the pivot point is the problem I was trying to explain. If I have to overlay the excess not centered to the opening, I will. But that takes my mirror further to the left than I wanted to be (hinge will be on the right). Ideally, the excess would be to the right, on the same side as the hinge, with just a little overlay on the left. When I googled 'overlay partial wrap hinge', I also found these hinges. I think the plate would have to be mounted on the face of the sheetrock, with longer screws that would go thru the sheetrock and screw into the studs, but would these work ??? It looks like they would allow the mirror to have a very large overlay on the right and also the hinge would be hidden. http://www.hardwaresource.com/hinges/cabinet-hinges/blum-european-hinges-grass-european-hinges/blum-compact-33-hinges-and-mounting-plates/blum-compact-33-face-mount-plate http://www.hardwaresource.com/hinges/cabinet-hinges/blum-european-hinges-grass-european-hinges/blum-compact-33-hinges-and-mounting-plates/compact-33-hinges I see the hinge is supposed to be inserted into a drilled out cup. Vice versa, could the face plate be mounted on the mirror, and the hinge cup be drilled into the sheetrock ? Would the hinge still open correctly ? The reason I ask, is because I am not sure what material the frame of the mirror is made from and also if it is deep enough to allow me to drill the cup. Lateral hinges I think would not work, for the same reason as the drawer glides mounted sideways - I don't *think* there would be enough room. We're down at the beach house right now (our last guest broke the side rail on one of the bunk beds and we're here fixing it, no idea what they were doing to break the rail lengthwise all the way from end to end!! kids jumping on the bed I would guess), but I can measure for that idea when we get home tomorrow.

It is very beautiful and it kinda reminds me of striatum? I have one that I purchased on Ebay as 'Old Timey Orange' and the seller said that it has been it in his family for a long time. I have mine in the front window and it's sending up two scapes at the moment. I only purchased one bulb and it's got a whole potful of babies next to the mother bulb. Also, it seems to bloom several times a year :-))))

The top picture looks more dense than I would expect in a Marathon fescue lawn. Is the lawn grass thick and dense when it's growing well? And are the tips of the new growth blunt instead of pointed. Does the grass send out runners over top of the ground? Here's a picture of St Augustine with the blunt tips. Or is it fine bladed with pointed tips? Runners or no runners?