A piano hinge would work well for that application... Chris

Thanks for the idea. I thought of a piano hinge at first. I don't know a lot about them, but have 2 questions about why that may not work ...

On a piano hinge, doesn't it need to be installed at or very near the edge ? So the hinge part would show, not be hidden ?

Also, studs are 16" on center, which leaves 14.5" from interior to interior. I am thinking the hinge I use will need to be installed on the mirror an inch or two in from the edge. But, if the hinge isn't right at the edge, how will the mirror open ? As it swings, won't the frame of the mirror on the hinged side press against the wall and prevent it from opening ?

Another idea I had for mounting the mirror was something like drawer glides mounted sideways on the wall, and the mirror would slide from side to side. I need to measure to be sure, but I don't think there is enough room on either side for the mirror to slide fully out of the way and not cover part of the interior.

If the mirror is larger than the opening, I know if no hinge that would function mounted inboard of the pivot point for this application.

You pretty much have to build a box to slip between the studs...

A. To cover and protect the cut edge of the drywall

B. To provide a good anchor material for the hinges.

Best to design the box to stand 1/8-3/16" proud of the finished drywall surface because your walls probably aren't in a perfect perpendicular plane.

If you very carefully and tidily cut away the sheetrock, you can get away with just a bit of caulk to cover the crack between the drywall and the box after you insert it into the opening, check that it's perpendicular & level and anchor it to the studs.

I've built four of these, using repurposed hardwood for the sides, top & bottom and recycled thin wood paneling (reverse side) for the back. I built the mirror frames, too since all four were slightly different sizes.

You need an overlay partial wrap hinge for 5/8" or 3/4" side panel, depending on the thickness of the box material.

If the mirror is larger, then the edge of the mirror is hinged to one side of the opening and the 'excess' just overlays on the wall on the opposite side. The mirror will cover the opening; it just won't be centered over the opening.

*edited for clarity

This post was edited by ci_lantro on Fri, Jan 30, 15 at 0:04

I agree with ci_lantro. Check if IKEA has a cabinet that would do the job, cut the depth, reattach the back, and attach the mirror to the door.

Maybe lateral hinges if you have the room?

Thank you so much for these ideas and the technical terms ! I wasn't even sure what to google other than 'hinge' which returns a bazillion results, lol.

Yes, inboard of the pivot point is the problem I was trying to explain. If I have to overlay the excess not centered to the opening, I will. But that takes my mirror further to the left than I wanted to be (hinge will be on the right). Ideally, the excess would be to the right, on the same side as the hinge, with just a little overlay on the left.

When I googled 'overlay partial wrap hinge', I also found these hinges. I think the plate would have to be mounted on the face of the sheetrock, with longer screws that would go thru the sheetrock and screw into the studs, but would these work ??? It looks like they would allow the mirror to have a very large overlay on the right and also the hinge would be hidden.
http://www.hardwaresource.com/hinges/cabinet-hinges/blum-european-hinges-grass-european-hinges/blum-compact-33-hinges-and-mounting-plates/blum-compact-33-face-mount-plate
http://www.hardwaresource.com/hinges/cabinet-hinges/blum-european-hinges-grass-european-hinges/blum-compact-33-hinges-and-mounting-plates/compact-33-hinges

I see the hinge is supposed to be inserted into a drilled out cup. Vice versa, could the face plate be mounted on the mirror, and the hinge cup be drilled into the sheetrock ? Would the hinge still open correctly ? The reason I ask, is because I am not sure what material the frame of the mirror is made from and also if it is deep enough to allow me to drill the cup.

Lateral hinges I think would not work, for the same reason as the drawer glides mounted sideways - I don't *think* there would be enough room. We're down at the beach house right now (our last guest broke the side rail on one of the bunk beds and we're here fixing it, no idea what they were doing to break the rail lengthwise all the way from end to end!! kids jumping on the bed I would guess), but I can measure for that idea when we get home tomorrow.

I'd look here too. Check all the categories, they have a ton of stuff and it's not always where you think it should be (I'm guessing because I don't know enough to know what I'm looking for, but it sounds like you are in the same boat).

Here is a link that might be useful: Sugatsune

I used old school hinges like the one at the link. I installed it so the hinge wrapped the side and face of the box and the flat leaf was screwed to the back of the mirror frame.

I am not sure what material the frame of the mirror is made from...

Then you don't know if the material will hold a screw and hold it securely enough to take the dynamic forces of being opened and closed repeatedly.

hinge cup be drilled into the sheetrock

No. The sheet rock will crumble. And you can't mount a hinge to the sheetrock for the same reason.

You realllllllly have to build a box out of 1-by material to sleeve into the stud cavity as I outlined in my previous post.

I hate to say this but from what you have posted so far, I fear you're in a bit over your head. You need to step back and totally reconsider your plan to not build a box. The box will simplify things and look a whole lot neater---especially since it will cover and PROTECT the cut drywall. You're trying to take shortcuts that I can guarantee will come back and bite you in the butt.

Here is a link that might be useful: Wrap around hinge

How much room do you have on either side? You could mount two heavy duty drawer guides to the wall (top and bottom) and the other half to the mirror and have it slide back and forth when opening. You would have to frame it a bit as going through drywall would not be a good idea but you are going to have to do this regardless.

This is the only way I can think of to have it "centred" where you want and not on a hinge.

Did you ever complete this project? I am thinking of doing the same thing and wondering how yours turned out.