How is wish Alnwick Castle made good cut flowers!
Lisa Adams
6 years ago
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The Alnwick rose, thoughts?
Comments (33)I grew this rose quite a few years ago. I found it to be extremely bad to blackspot. I loved the bloom....and thought I could plant it in a spot where I would be most likely to spray it and thereby enjoying beautiful blooms and a healthy bush, but other things took priority and I wasn't able to spray on a regular schedule. I replaced it, don't have plans to plant it again anytime soon, but I think if someone really loved it, didn't have a bunch of other roses, 40 horses, a bunch of chickens, 30 acres, a big house, ad nauseum, to keep up with.........it could be a beautiful rose. I seem to recall pegging it - it grew long canes and it bloomed better that way. I say if you love it - plant where you can peg it, plan to spray regularly and am sure you will have a lovely rose. I tried that with Angel Face too........it needs to be sprayed all the time. Finally got tired of that, and now have Plum Perfect which is nearly the same color - not quite the ethereal beauty Angel Face is, but has healthy foliage! As you know..........east Texas and blackspot can be synonymous.... Why not try it once? The Antique Rose Emporium grows it and doesn't worry about the blackspot........It really is a lovely rose........By the way, if you don't have Plum Perfect, add that to your list when you go to Chamblees. Judith...See More'fairy castle cactus with pink straw flowers' care?
Comments (42)I tend to disagree with some of the advice in that link: sand for play boxes is usually too fine, it is specifically good packing sand to make sand castles and sand cookies and similar...if it was coarse, it would not stick together. So that info is, IMO, incorrect. You need to find what is referred to as Horticultural sand - much grittier, with bigger particles. Most of us do not use sand at all (very few ppl do, and they have lots of knowledge and experience with growing succulents). You would be much better off reading info on this forum: ppl giving advice grow (and many, like Jeff above), have been growing succulents for years. Our goal is to keep plants healthy, and #1 is usually drainage problem: mix needs to drain fast/well, and soil with fine sand will not provide drainage. Perlite is available to most. It is good idea to sift or rinse it, to get rid of dust. Pumice is anorher excellent substrate, not always readily available. Chicken grit/small granite gravel, is another ingredient excellent to use. There are many more inorganc ingredients that could be used. MG bagged potting soil is considered not good enough and many will not use it (including me). You could make much better draining mix by using just sifted perlite and Cactus&Succulent soil in 1:1 ratio. If you already have MG soil and want to use it, I would suggest to add even more perlite (60-80%). If you have pumice, use it instead of perlite. Or mix it with perlite, and use much less soil. Adding grit helps a lot. Grains of different ingredients should be approx. of same size: 4-6mm is good. It could be tad smaller, but, IMO, 2mm or less is too fine. Over 6mm gets to be too large. Many succulets do not need very large pots. Try to find out where some grow naturally: most in very 'rocky' areas, with literally no soil (or very little), and many on and in-between the rocks: tight spaces. So size of the pot is not always a problem. Bigger is not neccessarily better :) Repoting is usually not needed every year, and if repotting, it is better to go up just a bit - if plant needs it. Succulents could be grown in large pots - but drainage is even more important. Lots of water retaining soil that will fill up large pot will take very long time to dry up and cause lots of damage. If you provide good drainage (and have space for it), you can grow tiny plant in a wine barrel.... There is ton of info here, from good and experienced growers. Not like on some blogs, that offer incorrect info (at least partially) - often not based on experience, but incorrect info passed down. ETA: I just re-read blog you posted link to: here is contradicting info offered within 2 or 3 paragraphs: ..."The type of sand I buy is just the stuff they sell for use in a sandbox (I buy it at either Home Depot or Lowes)"... ..."Just don’t use sand from the garden, the beach, or a sandbox (you never know what nasties will be in that sand)"... Do not use play sand - either from the bag or a sandbox... Anything will work for short period of time. But if you want to grow succulents for a long time, keep them healthy - try to provide good drainage and good light....See MoreFlowers for cutting
Comments (39)Kim, Johnny's selected seeds has a huge amount of seed for cutting gardens as they supply them to many market growers who raise flowers to sell at farmer's markets. While everything they sell will not adapt to our climate, many of the items they offer would/should grow here.. You might look through their website section of cut flower seeds and see what you can come up with for filler. Their atriplex in different colors might make good filler, though there's a part of me that worries it might become invasive. Amaranths and celosias make great bouqet filler and are relatively fast from seed. I grow both the plume type celosias and the crested ones. Grasses as fillers might get tricky. They may go from green to brown too quickly in your heat to be very useful. Dill, whether in flower or not, would be a delightful filler, and one that smells good too. My favorite one for cutting actually is called "Bouquet". Some other fillers that come to mind include ammi (available now in more colors than just white), didiscus (especially striking in blue), yarrow, basil, globe amaranth, veronica and chamomile (though heat ends its season here pretty early). Some people like to use various mints as bouquet fillers because of the scent of the leaves. Dawn...See MoreMy plan on growing hinoki from cuttings-good or bad?
Comments (77)'Bill, I guess we are both beginners in propagating conifers. My god I didn't know it was this hard to grow conifers...' We all have to start somewhere. Don't give up. I think the methods Dave O. gave to us really simplifies things. Next time, I'm going to do mine that way. It will cut down on a lot of the work. This time, I spent a lot of time checking temperatures and that's because I didn't have a thermostat on my mat, so I used a timer and had to continually check and change the on/off cycles to coincide with what ambient temps were doing. The colder it got outside, the more heat it took to keep 70d bottom heat (remember I'm zone 3 brrr) :) . Next year I definitely will have a thermostat. I also spent time buying/configuring lighting, next year, I won't have to fool with that. Built myself an insulated rooting chamber, should work just fine 'as is' next year. And the reading. I must've read certain articles 10x before it totally sunk in, then you have to sort through all the contradictory and incorrect information found on the internet. So yeah, first time around is always the hardest. Keep us posted on what you do next time, I find it interesting. I still don't know how my stuff will turn out but I'll keep posting on my "Rooting Tsuga Canadensis" thread as things develop. Good Luck! :-) Hey Dave! When you finally set your tank outside in the shade, is it still sealed? Or do you have it vented by then?...See MoreLisa Adams
6 years agoLisa Adams
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5 years agoingrid_vc so. CA zone 9
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